Tomar, Portugal

Posted on October 16, 2019

The Town

We stepped out of the Tomar bus station and the first thing we saw was a huge castle looming over the town. I had to stop in my tracks and stare up in awe.

We headed towards our Hostel located on the main pedestrian-only corridor.  I was surprised to see that there weren’t many people around, considering it was the center of town. Only a few of the cafes along the corridor were open, and of those only about half the tables were full with local patrons having afternoon espresso. I guess that’s mid-October in Tomar.

It was quite refreshing to be in a town with mostly locals and just a few other tourists.

Tomar is small and quite lovely, with the River Tâmega running through the center and one of the finest Roman bridges in Portugal. 

The black and white checkerboard tile pattern, set on the diagonal, in the main square, Praça da Republica, is mesmerizing.

At the time we didn’t know it, but we had arrived on the one day a year where the Knights Templar have a nighttime Procession, marching and riding on horseback down the steep, uneven cobblestone path from the castle into and through town.  

The Great Fall

In preparation for the Knights Templar Procession, the town had dropped sand, lots of sand, along the processional path (I’m not sure why – maybe for the horses?).  There happened to be a huge amount of sand just in front of our hostel, and as I stepped down my foot suddenly slid 10 inches. I lurched forward and somehow flat out pancaked in front of the hostel.

With my large green backpack on, I’m sure I looked like a giant turtle flailing and falling, completely out of control. Unlike the turtle, when I landed, my face was suspended just inches from the hard tile.  My right knee took the brunt of the impact. My poor right knee that has already had two surgeries, including an ACL repair.

My first thought was utter astonishment (it all happened so fast). My second thought was, “Am I ok?”. My third thought was, “OMG, how embarrassing”. One of the few crowded outdoor cafes was right across from our Hostel, and everyone there had a prime view of my entire gymnastics move. 

Two different local men stopped and offered their help. The Portugeuse are so very friendly and thoughtful. I kindly refused their offers, and had Steve help me to my feet.  I hobbled up the stairs, and Steve checked us in.

After some elevating and icing, and a consult by a Physical Therapist from Missouri that was staying at our Hostel, all I could do was rest.  The PT taped up my knee, and advised me that I could climb up the steep path to the castle the next day, if I felt up to it and took it super slow. 

Knights Templar

But before thinking about tomorrow and the castle, we still had the Knights Templar to look forward to. I was excited to text my oldest son, who is a High School History Teacher, about our good fortune to see the “Knights of Templar”. He seemed excited too, but was quick to correct me that it’s “Knights Templar” (no “of”). Of course, he would know that bit of historical information. I admit I’ve never heard of the Knights Templar, but will be sure to leave out the “of” forevermore.

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The Knights started descending from the Castle at 10:30 pm. We were fortunate to have a balcony overlooking the Processional path. By the time the Knights were passing under our balcony it was after 11:15 pm.  

The Knights were clad in all white robes with the red Knights Templar emblem emblazoned on the front.  In all, several hundred Knights marched past, many with torches, while others rode on horseback. Medieval music blared throughout the Kingdom (or the street, if you prefer).  

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I still can’t believe the luck of happening upon this annual event.  I couldn’t have planned it any better if I’d tried, except I’d skip the undignified entry into town part. 

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Getting Up The Hill

The next morning I tried out my knee.  It was stiff and sore, but I was determined to see the Knights Templar Castle located at the very top of the steep hill looking over the town. 

We walked the three minutes to the main square in search of a Tuk-Tuk to haul me up the hill to the Castle. Anywhere you find tourists in Europe, you will find dozens of Tuk-Tuks.

Well, this one time there were no Tuk-Tuk’s to be found. Since a Tuk-Tuk was out of the question, we decided to turn to Uber, which is widely used in Portugal.   I opened my Uber app. The app read, “No Uber service available”.

Well, the transportation Gods were not in our favor, so I took a deep breath and started up the hill, on foot.  

The Knights Templar Castle

A very slow and steady pace up many stairs, then on to a steep, winding, cobblestone path, finally led to the Castle. Rounding the bend and seeing the Castle in full view was quite a sight. The Castle complex was huge and had a commanding presence.

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Wandering the grounds and touring the interior, full of the traditional blue and white tiles lining every corridor, was stunning, but the true jewel was The Convent of Christ, in the center of the Castle.

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The Convent of Christ

The Convent of Christ was a very unexpected and pleasant surprise. I  didn’t realize it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, or I would have known to expect something really special.  

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The Convent of Christ was like a Church within a Church within a Castle. The unique ceiling, with spines gracefully arching up towards the center, was breathtaking.

The pictures don’t do it justice. The colors, the patterns, and the enormity of the altar were awe-inspiring. I could have stayed for hours studying the detail and gawking at the beauty.

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Wins and Losses

Wins

• Happening into town on the very day of the the annual Knights Templar Procession!
• Having a large, comfortable room with a lovely balcony perfect for viewing the Knights Templar Procession
• Lying flat in the Hostel lobby, while Steve checked in, with ice on my knee, and having a Physical Therapist from Missouri come to my aid

Losses

• Checking into our Hostel and finding out we don’t have a private bathroom, which, at the time, was the least of my worries. 
• Watching two Tuk-Tuk’s zoom by us at the end of a long day when we had been unable to find a Tuk-Tuk anywhere for a ride up, or a ride down the steep hill to the Castle. 
• Pancaking in the street right in front of our Hostel has got to go in the Losses column.  No doubt about it