Posted October 28, 2019
Crossing the Street
Trying not to get hit by a car, motorcycle, moped, tuk-tuk, or bicycle is a full time job here in Bangkok. You may think I’m kidding, but I’m not.
I’ve read about how crazy the traffic is in Bangkok, and I thought I was prepared, but I wasn’t. There are a zillion vehicles of varying sizes and speeds, all going as fast as they possibly can, with multi-lane streets, some up to 8 lanes across.
The Other Side
But the real clincher, the game changer, is that the Thais drive on the other side of the road. When I first realized this, I thought it was kind of cool. After all, I’d never spent time in a country where they drive on the left. What a novelty.
Unfortunately, I had no idea how much this would personally impact me, and so soon too. But when you plunk two sleep deprived Americans down in Bangkok, who are are carrying fairly large backpacks, then add in this seemingly minor fact of traffic going the opposite direction, it’s a potential recipe for disaster.
The Arrival
Let me explain. We arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok, got some baht (Thai money), and found a taxi (no small feat).
After a 50 minute drive, the taxi driver pulled up and said something in Thai to our blank, unregistering faces. Thankfully he then motioned for us to get out of the car on the sidewalk side. Got it. We can do that.
Cafe on the bottom, we’re one floor up.
The taxi driver drove away. We stood, surveying the situation. Stepping out of the quiet, air conditioned taxi into the street was jarring. Intense heat and humidity rudely hit us in the face, while chaotic commotion, honking, loud engine backfires, and motorcycle engines winding came from every direction. It was a little disorienting, to say the least.
Four Lanes
We were merely four lanes of traffic away from our Airbnb, just across the street. There was no crosswalk or signal in sight. Looking to our left, the two lanes of traffic closest to us were backed up solid to where we were standing. We took another quick glance at the street and the entire four lanes appeared to be clear, so we went for it.
The Crossing
We approached the center line in the street and hung back for a quick moment, checking to our right, verifying one last time that it was clear to cross. It was completely clear, so we started our dash across the last two lanes.
It looked like our street crossing would be successful and without incident. No biggie, we got this.
We were just entering the third lane of traffic when suddenly, out of the corner of my eye, there was fast movement to my left. I hadn’t even looked left. All my life experience told me that cars only come from the right. Big mistake.
The Finale
I now know the true meaning of the phrase “Like a Deer Caught in the Headlights”. All I could think of was, “We’re F*&cked”. I froze. I think it was only a second, but it is indelibly seared in my mind. That moment of sheer panic and disbelief, as a fast moving taxi, the lead in a pack of vehicles, was bearing down on us. It was dangerously close to hitting us.
in the Headlights”
I’m not even sure what Steve was doing at that moment. It was every man for himself.
Somehow my brain kicked back into gear, the taxi (must have) slowed, and we made it to the far sidewalk.
Welcome to Bangkok.
Wins & Losses
Wins
> Enlisting Kobkul, our Airbnb hostess, to flag down a taxi and insist they use the meter. We get the uninflated taxi price when she’s involved.
> Having a sweet, older Thai man give us unsolicited advice on how to cross the busy street. Motioning us to follow along with him, he walked us across the intersection. He had a running dialogue going in Thai. We just smiled and shook our heads, “Yes”. He motioned how to stop the fast moving vehicles by authoritatively putting an arm up, as in “STOP”, while walking directly out into the fast moving traffic.
> Knowing from travels in other countries, that the very best way to cross a busy street is to shadow a local. If a local start crossing, we follow along, a step or two back in their wake. Works great.
> Getting the street crossing drill down-pat.
On a busy night in Chinatown, I took on a street jam-packed with cars, attempting to cross. Cars were crawling along, barely moving.
It was apparent that an approaching car wasn’t going to stop for me, but I stepped forward without hesitation, with my hand extended (in the STOP position), like I owned the road. The bumper came within a few inches of my thigh before coming to a stop. I kept moving. A woman behind me exclaimed an admiring, “Whoa”.
I hadn’t realized that a couple (of tourists) were following in our wake. I guess I earned that “Whoa”.
Losses
> Consistently paying double for a taxi or tuk tuk on the return ride “home” from our adventures around town (no Kobkul to help us). That being said, double of 40 baht ($1.10 USD) isn’t such a hardship.