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Notes from Porto

Posted October 23, 2019

Train to the Douro Valley

If you’re deciding whether or not to head up to the Douro Valley from Porto, let me clear things up for you. Do it. Especially if it’s a sunny day.

We elected to take the train up. It’s a two hour ride each way and $20 euros round-trip. Be sure to sit on the right side of the train, window seat preferably. You’ll catch spectacular views of the famously terraced grape vine covered hillsides and lovely, grand estates.

There are other options to get up to the valley including all kinds of boat excursions that slowly cruise up the river and take all day (like 7 hours). I’m sure they are quite pricey, but, if you have the time and don’t mind the cost, I’m sure it would be lovely.

Cobblestone boardwalk along the Douro Riber

Pinhao, which means pine nut in Portuguese, was our destination in the Douro. I’ve never seen such a tranquil and picturesque riverside village.

We had the boardwalk along the river almost completely to ourselves. It looked like a few boat tours had docked, but the groups must have been hauled off somewhere else, probably wine tasting.

I’m not a wine drinker (darn migraines), so we stuck around Pinhao for a few hours and enjoyed the serenity, eating our sandwiches on a park bench in the sunshine.

On a walk we saw a little bungalow we wouldn’t mind settling in, right along the Douro River. Maybe just for the spring and fall. It had a wonderful vegetable garden down in front, and plenty of room for friends and family to visit. Dream on…

The Beautiful Churches of Porto

No enhancements – the sky really is that blue!

The churches in Porto are so colorful. We found them around every corner, or so it seemed. Many feature the blue and white Azulejo tiles, brilliant against the blue sky (and the gray sky too).

Most churches are front and center, prominently displayed at the top of a main boulevard or at the head of a Praca (square), but some are tucked away and jump out at you unexpectedly.

Church tucked on a narrow sidestreet. We missed it multiple times as we passed!

A perfect example of a well hidden church was just up the street from our apartment. It’s situated on a very narrow street, where it’s easy to miss and hard to appreciate its grandeur.

We walked by it multiple times without even noticing it. When I finally did notice it, I had to strain my neck as far back as I could go just to take in the entire facade.

Tiles of Porto

The Sao Bento train station in Porto has amazingly detailed, floor to ceiling, blue and white tiles depicting historical scenes.

Whole tour bus loads of people, who are not taking a train at all, stop in just to admire the tiles and get pictures. It’s really a very impressive display.

Tile Homes

I especially love the bright and colorful tiles that adorn many homes up and down the cobblestone streets of Porto.

The Trolley Cars

The Trolleys in Lisbon are a nightmare. Hoards of people line up for hours, waiting for the next Trolley. Even when you do get on board, chances are you’ll be smashed somewhere in the middle, standing the entire ride and unable to see a thing except your neighbor’s armpit.

Our lovely, very empty, trolley car, #22

With that in mind, we skipped the Trolleys in Lisbon and postponed until Porto, where the Trolleys are (supposedly) much less crowded. Being extra cautious of possible crowds, we decided to take a morning Trolley. We waited near the University for the #22 Trolley, due at 9:20 am.

I was shocked to find that we had the Trolley all to ourselves for almost our entire thirty minute ride! It was wonderful. I kept changing seats, jumping from one side of the aisle to the other, depending on the view and my mood. Steve mostly stayed in one seat, as is his style.

When we got down the hill to the end of the run, the conductor (if that’s what she is called) left her controls at the front and walked down the aisle, preparing the Trolley for the opposite direction. She flipped the backs of the seats so the they would face the right direction, and reversed the power connector cable on the top of the Trolley.

There were power controls at both ends. The Trolley back was now the front, and we were off and running up the hill to back where we started.

Tomar, Portugal

Posted on October 16, 2019

The Town

Knights Templar Castle High Above Tomar, Portugal

We stepped out of the Tomar bus station and the first thing we saw was a huge castle looming over the town. I had to stop in my tracks and stare up in awe.

We headed towards our Hostel located on the main pedestrian-only corridor. I was surprised to see that there weren’t many people around, considering it was the center of town. Only a few of the cafes along the corridor were open, and of those only about half the tables were full with local patrons having afternoon espresso. I guess that’s mid-October in Tomar.

It was quite refreshing to be in a town with mostly locals and just a few other tourists.

Tomar is small and quite lovely, with the River Tâmega running through the center and one of the finest Roman bridges in Portugal.

Roman Bridge over the River Tamega, Tomar, Portugal

The black and white checkerboard tile pattern, set on the diagonal, in the main square, Praça da Republica, is mesmerizing.

At the time we didn’t know it, but we had arrived on the one day a year where the Knights Templar have a nighttime Procession, marching and riding on horseback down the steep, uneven cobblestone path from the castle into and through town.

The Great Fall

In preparation for the Knights Templar Procession, the town had dropped sand, lots of sand, along the processional path (I’m not sure why – maybe for the horses?). There happened to be a huge amount of sand just in front of our hostel, and as I stepped down my foot suddenly slid 10 inches. I lurched forward and somehow flat out pancaked in front of the hostel.

With my large green backpack on, I’m sure I looked like a giant turtle flailing and falling, completely out of control. Unlike the turtle, when I landed, my face was suspended just inches from the hard tile. My right knee took the brunt of the impact. My poor right knee that has already had two surgeries, including an ACL repair.

My first thought was utter astonishment (it all happened so fast). My second thought was, “Am I ok?”. My third thought was, “OMG, how embarrassing”. One of the few crowded outdoor cafes was right across from our Hostel, and everyone there had a prime view of my entire gymnastics move.

Two different local men stopped and offered their help. The Portugeuse are so very friendly and thoughtful. I kindly refused their offers, and had Steve help me to my feet. I hobbled up the stairs, and Steve checked us in.

After some elevating and icing, and a consult by a Physical Therapist from Missouri that was staying at our Hostel, all I could do was rest. The PT taped up my knee, and advised me that I could climb up the steep path to the castle the next day, if I felt up to it and took it super slow.

Knights Templar

But before thinking about tomorrow and the castle, we still had the Knights Templar to look forward to. I was excited to text my oldest son, who is a High School History Teacher, about our good fortune to see the “Knights of Templar”. He seemed excited too, but was quick to correct me that it’s “Knights Templar” (no “of”). Of course, he would know that bit of historical information. I admit I’ve never heard of the Knights Templar, but will be sure to leave out the “of” forevermore.

The Knights started descending from the Castle at 10:30 pm. We were fortunate to have a balcony overlooking the Processional path. By the time the Knights were passing under our balcony it was after 11:15 pm.

The Knights were clad in all white robes with the red Knights Templar emblem emblazoned on the front. In all, several hundred Knights marched past, many with torches, while others rode on horseback. Medieval music blared throughout the Kingdom (or the street, if you prefer).

I still can’t believe the luck of happening upon this annual event. I couldn’t have planned it any better if I’d tried, except I’d skip the undignified entry into town part.

Getting Up The Hill

The next morning I tried out my knee. It was stiff and sore, but I was determined to see the Knights Templar Castle located at the very top of the steep hill looking over the town.

We walked the three minutes to the main square in search of a Tuk-Tuk to haul me up the hill to the Castle. Anywhere you find tourists in Europe, you will find dozens of Tuk-Tuks.

Well, this one time there were no Tuk-Tuk’s to be found. Since a Tuk-Tuk was out of the question, we decided to turn to Uber, which is widely used in Portugal. I opened my Uber app. The app read, “No Uber service available”.

Well, the transportation Gods were not in our favor, so I took a deep breath and started up the hill, on foot.

The Knights Templar Castle

A very slow and steady pace up many stairs, then on to a steep, winding, cobblestone path, finally led to the Castle. Rounding the bend and seeing the Castle in full view was quite a sight. The Castle complex was huge and had a commanding presence.

Wandering the grounds and touring the interior, full of the traditional blue and white tiles lining every corridor, was stunning, but the true jewel was The Convent of Christ, in the center of the Castle.

The Convent of Christ

The Convent of Christ was a very unexpected and pleasant surprise. I didn’t realize it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, or I would have known to expect something really special.

The Convent of Christ was like a Church within a Church within a Castle. The unique ceiling, with spines gracefully arching up towards the center, was breathtaking.

The pictures don’t do it justice. The colors, the patterns, and the enormity of the altar were awe-inspiring. I could have stayed for hours studying the detail and gawking at the beauty.

Wins and Losses

Wins

Happening into town on the very day of the the annual Knights Templar Procession!
Having a large, comfortable room with a lovely balcony perfect for viewing the Knights Templar Procession
Lying flat in the Hostel lobby, while Steve checked in, with ice on my knee, and having a Physical Therapist from Missouri come to my aid

Losses

Checking into our Hostel and finding out we don’t have a private bathroom, which, at the time, was the least of my worries.
Watching two Tuk-Tuk’s zoom by us at the end of a long day when we had been unable to find a Tuk-Tuk anywhere for a ride up, or a ride down the steep hill to the Castle.
Pancaking in the street right in front of our Hostel has got to go in the Losses column. No doubt about it

Day Trip to Belem

Posted September 29, 2019

We made it to beautiful Lisbon, Portugal! It’s very hot for very late September, and I’m embarrassed to admit it, but I have a heat rash in both my armpits. It’s unexpected and terribly inconvenient. I packed my “healthy” deodorant that has no antiperspirant properties, which, it turns out, was a big mistake. And our future destinations only get hotter and more humid. How did this unfortunate situation occur? Let me explain…

It all started on Friday. We planned a day trip to the very popular section of outer Lisbon called Belem, about six miles to the west. In our typical fashion, we were determined to take public transit. I was especially excited because we were finally going to get to ride on one of the cute, iconic yellow trolleys seen all over Lisbon. With our trusty Rick Steves book in hand (literally), we tried to find the trolley stop for the 15E to Belem. It wasn’t easy. After a 25 minute brisk walk we parked ourselves at a trolley stop and waited, but we had virtually no confidence that we were in the right place.

After 15 minutes a policeman walked by, so I asked him where to catch the 15E to Belem. He looked at me, then turned away and motioned urgently towards a square, the Praca do Comercio, about 150 yards to the east, where the 15E was currently loading. He was pointing at a large bus, not a trolley, but we took him at his word and starting running through the crowded sidewalks and across the wide street, dodging cars, tuk-tuk’s, and people, while digging out our passes. And yes, it was the 15E we were looking for.

This is where we were supposed to catch the 15E.
How could we have missed this tiny, discrete location?

We’d heard the 15E can get very crowded, and our information was correct. Trying to catch my breath as I approached the bus, I showed my pass to the attendant and he waved me inside. The problem was there was nowhere to go. A solid wall of humans filled the open doors. Behind me there were still more people with every intention of getting on that bus too, so I took that first step and squeezed in. Steve was smashing in right behind me. I was so squished that bodies were touching up against me from my shoulders down to my ankles, on all sides. I felt like a tightly wrapped burrito. I was suspended in a sea of humanity, with no bar, seat, or strap to hang on to. The pressure of bodies kept me from falling as the bus started on its way, but that was short-lived. Even my feet were pinned together, so I couldn’t gain my balance.

As the bus abruptly stopped and started, I repeatedly stepped on the woman directly behind me, who looked like Bea Arthur (“Maude”, of 70’s sitcom fame). Of course it wasn’t Bea Arthur, but she was tall with large feet and gray hair and had the look of Bea Arthur. I’m sure I also nailed Bea’s husband a few times, who was behind me to the right. Sorry Bea. Sorry Bea’s husband.

I already had a good start on overheating from our dash to the bus, but now I was quickly absorbing heat from all sides. Turns out the buses are supposed to be air conditioned, but this one wasn’t. It was close to 80 degrees outside and I was packed in a sweltering bus with a hundred of my now closest friends, with no windows, no air movement, and trying desperately to stay upright. It was a long ride to Belem. I won’t go into further detail about the rash, but suffice to say there was lots of wetness involved and it wasn’t pretty.

If you do make it to Belem, one way or another, make sure to visit the Monastery of Jeronimos. It’s a giant, white limestone structure full of detailed, Gothic architecture. We found it breathtaking and very impressive. Entrance to the church is free. Entrance to the Monastery is 10 euros and it’s worth it.

After visiting the Monastery, we took a walk along the waterfront by the Marina, heading west paralleling the Tagus River. There’s an underground tunnel to get across the fast moving highway between the Park and the waterfront, almost directly across from the gigantic Monument to the Discoveries.

Once on the Marina side, it’s about a 10 minute walk to the Tower of Saint Vincent. The Tower served both as a fortress and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The Tower rises majestically out of the river and looks like a movie set. The tower was the last thing many explorers saw as they left Portugal on their journey to the new world.

Next, we took a foot bridge by the tower back over the highway. We headed a couple of blocks into town where we found a restaurant with shady outdoor seating that was far less touristy than back by the Monastery.

Here are my tips for a day trip to Belem:

Catch the 15E at the first stop, Praça da Figueira, not the second stop, Praça do Comércio. With luck, you’ll get a seat on the bus and have some breathing room.
Be advised that the 15E trolley that supposedly goes to Belem is actually not a trolley at all, but a mammoth, double-long, modern electric bus that has advertising all over the windows so you cannot see inside. It looks like something from a futuristic sci-fi movie, not at all like the cute yellow trolley we were looking for that travel all over Lisbon.
Turns out you can also catch the “normal” bus #728 to and from Belem, so there’s no need to even deal with the giant futuristic electric bus, unless you’re into that sort of thing.
Bring lots of water and maybe a fan.
Wear a good antiperspirant or maybe go in December. And good luck.

Update:

I have great news to report, in case you are concerned about me. My “issue” is getting much better and it’s only been 24 hours. I think I’m ready to head to Sintra, our next destination!