October 17- 24, 2023

I’m in Love

In my very first social media post after reaching Ljubljana (pronounced Loo-Blee-Ah-Nah) I stated that I was in love.  In love with Ljubljana.  Not only is Ljubljana the most fun city name to pronounce (ever), but the city simply shines. 

Late October

Yes, the city even shines in late October.  Even on a cloudy, rainy day.  There’s something very appealing about Ljubljana’s old town center, that’s for sure. 

The Ljubljanica river meanders through the heart of the city, and is spanned by many beautiful and architecturally interesting bridges.  Everything revolves around the river, adding to the charm of this beautiful city.  

The center is pedestrian only, filled with cobblestone streets, whimsical statues, and Baroque buildings.

The real heart of Ljubljana lies in its Ljubljanica River embankments, densely scattered with lively cafes and bars offering outdoor seating.

Even in fall’s cooler weather, the cafes offer lots of options to keep the customers toasty warm!

The Austrian Connection

With a charming Old Town clustered around a castle-topped hill, Ljubljana is often likened to Salzburg, Austria.  Both towns are also situated on two sides of a beautiful river, near the foothills of the Alps.  

The Habsburgs

There’s a darn good reason that Ljubljana is so similar to Saltzburg, Austria.  In the mid 1300’s Slovenia came under Habsburgs (of the Austro-Hungarian Empire) rule.  The Habsburgs, along with the Holy Roman Empire, ruled the land for the next 600 years. 

So even though there have been a good number of different conquerors, rulers, and colonizers through Slovenia’s tumultuous history, the Habsburgs-Austrians had the lion’s share in shaping Ljubljana, the city and culture.

A Bit of Ljubljana History

World War I brought the break with the Habsburg dynasty.  In 1918 Slovenia joined the new state, the Kingdom of the Serb, Croats and Slovenians. 

Thankfully Ljubljana was spared much of the destruction other cities endured during WWII.  After the war, Ljubljana became the capital of Slovenia, one of the six republics of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

In 1991, Slovenia gained its independence from Yugoslavia, and Ljubljana became the national capital. Slovenia is a member of NATO and part of the European Union. 

Surprise Me

I’ve read that Ljubljana is a foodie’s paradise.  I’m a tough customer, being gluten-free and vegan (although I often revert to a vegetarian while traveling).  I am happy to report I was pleasantly surprised by Ljubljana.

At home, in progressive Seattle, maybe one out of ten restaurants I visit has a gluten free bun option for a veggie burger, but Ljublajana is a different story.  While ordering lunch, I’d hold my breath and ask, with trepidation, “Do you have a gluten-free bun?”

I’d be met with a confident and resounding, “Yes, of course!”  Everywhere! Everywhere had a gluten free bun!  And it wasn’t a hard, somewhat hockey puck version of a bun either.  It was a fluffy, fresh, amazing gluten free bun!  Unless you have a food allergy, you cannot know how happy that makes gluten-free me!

Foodie Heaven

Besides the whole gluten-free thing, which I know has its own culture of criticism, Ljubljana does earn its designation as a foodie destination.  Although we don’t eat at Michelin star restaurants, we could have. Ljubljana’s culinary scene strongly focuses on seasonal, locally produced ingredients. 

Slovenia’s proximity to Italy definitely enters into this equation, with spectacular pizza and Italian dishes served throughout town.  Not to mention the gelato and ice cream selections that were off the charts delicious.

City of Dragons

According to legend, Ljubljana’s beginnings are intertwined with Jason and the Argonauts.  On returning from a quest for the Golden Fleece, the heroes met a dragon by the lake, which their leader Jason slew.  The dragon has since been adopted on the city’s coat of arms. 

So, of course, everywhere we walk throughout Ljubljana are dragons.  Dragon statues, dragon bridges, and dragon stores. I don’t blame them.  Having a dragon as your city mascot is very cool indeed.

Even the street grates are embellished with dragons.

The Green Connection

We were thrilled to learn that Ljubljana has exceptional environmental awareness. Ljubljana won the prestigious title of European Green Capital 2016. The award is a European Commission initiative and is bestowed upon the city that has achieved the highest environmental standards.  Ljubljana is committed to environmental protection and sustainable development.

They even have little electric vehicles that roam the old town, free for anyone to hop on/hop off.

Because of Slovenia’s emphasis on preservation of nature, environmental protection, and sustainable growth, it’s  considered one of the greenest countries on the planet according to the international organization Green Destinations, and the most sustainable destination in Europe in 2020.

Farmers Market

Even though we were visiting in late October, I was thrilled to see that the huge (mostly organic) farmers market was still in (almost) full-swing! Thankfully we had a full kitchen, so could take advantage of all the fresh fruits & veggies.

Recycling

Ljubljana’s dedication to recycling is admirable. And they make it very convenient for their residents to find recycling – receptacles are all over the city.

Recycling is practically an art form here, with the largest variety of sorting bins than I’ve ever seen- six or more sorting options. 

The receptacles are sunken underground, with only the chute showing above ground. It’s an exceptional example of great urban planning. 

Bicycle Culture

As in many European cities, bicycling is huge.  There are bike lanes along the city streets, but mostly, in the old town center which is car-free, the bicycles just weave in and out of the pedestrians with amazing precision. 

I saw a moms riding bikes with homemade wooden bucket-like receptacles on the front, full of up to four kids!  I wish I’d gotten a picture, but I was so enthralled when they’d pedal by, I guess I didn’t think to grab a pic.

Tivoli Park

Preservation of nature is a huge priority for the city.  At one end of town sits the enormous Tivoli park, a green space of over 1200 acres featuring something for everyone.  The park is full of chestnut tree-lined paths, a fish pond, a botanical garden, and a variety of statues and fountains.  It’s also home to several cafes, an on-site playground and bowling alley, and the Ljubljana Zoo.  

The crowning glory of the park is an expansive promenade designed by Jože Plečnik, whose work throughout Ljubljana had a profound and lasting impact on the city. 

We visited the park on a wet & very blustery fall day.  The crunchy, brown and yellow leaves were falling from the trees, hanging in the air blowing this way and that before they slowly made their way to the ground. 

Outdoor Education

But the wind and rain didn’t keep the school kids indoors. Everywhere we’d travel through the city we saw school groups out and about – from toddlers to teenagers.

Jože Plečnik, Man of Vision

A big part of the appeal of Ljubljana is due to the vision and works of the architect Jože Plečnik (1872-1957).  Plečnik worked in Vienna, Prague, and Ljubljana from the late 19th century all the way until the 1950s. Arguably, he left his greatest mark on Ljubljana.

Jože’s impact on the city cannot be overstated. Plečnik was to Ljulbljana as Mozart was to Salzburg.

Between WWI and WWII, he presented an example of a human centered urban design that successfully changed the very identity of the city following the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. 

He managed to realize his vision to transform a once sleepy little town within the Habsburg monarchy into the true capital city of Slovenia. Through daring architectural and urban planning projects, he transformed Ljubljana into a comprehensive piece of art.  

Plečnik planned and created many public spaces throughout Ljubljana including the riverfront, squares, parks, streets, promenades, bridges, the national library, churches, markets, and a funerary complex. His works were sensitively integrated into the pre-existing urban, natural and cultural context and contributed to the city’s new identity. 

Plečnik stood apart from the other predominant modernist principles of his time. It wasn’t until after his death that he was truly appreciated and hailed as a true genius.

Plečnik at Home

We walked across town to tour Plečnik’s home, all the time in a torrential downpour, with no umbrella. We only had fairly flimsy rain shells, that were adept at soaking up every raindrop, leaving us drenched. I’m not sure why I’m smiling in this picture, because I really wasn’t very happy.

This bad decision was made because it wasn’t raining when we first left the apartment, and neither of us wanted to get stuck carrying the umbrella. Oops. Bad call.

Medieval Gardens

Along our route to Plečnik’s, still in the rain, we passed by large plots of communal gardens amongst residential homes. We later learned that these are protected land. They were, and still are, communal gardens dating back to medieval times. Very cool.

The Cafe

Lucky for us we found a cozy, warm, and dry café just a few buildings away from Plečnik’s place, where we ducked in for a quick coffee before touring his home.

The Tour

A tour is required to visit Plečnik’s home. Learning the story of the artist’s life and the architecture of the house was well worth the time (and wet march across town). The tour guide presented a fascinating story of the artist, as well as the furniture & house that Plečnik designed.

Plečnik’s design style was simple and, above all, functional.

Plečnik, the Man

Plečnik was a very private man, even a bit anti-social.  

One of my favorite memories of the tour was seeing the receiving room of in Plečnik’s home, where he greeted guests. The room was stark with a concrete floor and large windows. There was one lone seat in the room, designed by Plečnik. It was a hard wooden bench with a slightly tilted seat (pictured above, left). 

The tilt pitched any guest slightly forward, as if encouraging you to be on your way. And with no cushion on the bench, the hard surface wasn’t too welcoming either.  The bench was purposefully designed by Plečnik so his guests were uncomfortable, and, in fact, sent a loud and clear, albeit subtle, message not to stay too long.  Hilarious!

A Day Trip to Remember

For a fun day-trip we bussed over to beautiful Lake Bled, in the Northwestern part of Slovenia.

The views through the picturesque countryside were so very lovely, even viewed through a bus window. Village after village sat tucked in the green rolling hills; every one of them having a prominent church with a white steeple clocktower.

The Lake

Lake Bled, with the tiny island containing a church (with steeple of course), in the middle, is often the featured image identified with Slovenia. And seeing it in person was just as iconic.

The Julian Alps in the background are the perfect backdrop to the stunning lake and surroundings. When we arrived the clouds were hugging the mountains, but they eventually cleared and we had amazing views of the range on and of through the day.

The views just kept getting better and better as we walked the three mile trail around the lake.

Wins and Losses

Wins

Sts. Cyril and Methodius Orthodox Church: We were lucky enough to happen upon the most unique and stunning church right outside Tivoli Park.

The Ljubljana castle, high up on the hill, provided incredible panoramic views of the Old Town and beyond.

A Marathon! It just so happened that the 27th annual Ljubljana marathon was on our last weekend in town.

We had no idea it was coming, but it sure was fun.  More than 22,500 runners in total came from 68 countries, the largest number in the history of the Ljubljana Marathon. More than 4,500 were foreigners. The town was buzzing and full of fun energy.

Losses

Ljubljana is the last destination of our amazing eight week trip through Istanbul and the Balkans!  What an incredible time we’ve had!

Next Up?

Oaxaca, Puerto Vallarta, and San Pancho, Mexico for five weeks starting December 2, 2023.

October 10 – 17, 2023

Beautiful Dubrovnik

I’m sure most blogs about Old Town Dubrovnik start out talking about the awe-inspiring views and the historic, beautiful all-stone city.  But I’m going to start out by talking about garbage.

Garbage? What Garbage?

Here in Old Town Dubrovnik there’s a bit of a Disneyland feel. Everything is sparkling clean. Not a drop of garbage anywhere. Every paver looks shiny, like it was just mopped. There’s not a speck of anything on the ground, anywhere.

And, as it turns out, the whole garbage process is kept well hidden, away from tourist eyes. There’s no room for garbage in this magical land. Large, green, plastic garbage cans with wheels just don’t fit the ancient Old Town vibe. 

Early Morning 

Twice now we’ve been out in Old Town in the very early morning and witnessed the Dubrovnik garbage collection scene. 

It’s quick, efficient, and, dare I say, clean. The residents keep the garbage cans well hidden by day. As best we can tell, garbage cans are sequestered indoors. Then, sometime between midnight and dawn they are discreetly put to the curb.

Men In Orange

The garbage collectors are dressed smartly in bright orange. The garbage truck is quick to get any semblance of garbage handled well before the throngs of tourists appear for the day. And as soon as the cans are emptied, the green bins are quickly tucked away out of sight. 

It was like a well choreographed dance. Impressive to say the least.

Getting to Old Town

The bus from Kotor, Montenegro, north to Dubrovnik, Croatia, took us through some beautiful country.

After several hours we arrived at the Dubrovnik bus terminal and took a cab to Old Town.  The cab pulled over just outside one of the main gates to the Old City, the Pile Gate, which is not pronounced PILE. 

Pile Gate

To my horror, it’s pronounced Pee-leh (said the taxi driver who corrected me).  I’m sure he’s heard Pile Gate mispronounced a million times by foreigners like me. Thankfully he knew what I meant.  

Anyway, we arrived, got out, grabbed our bags, and quickly stood to the side of the road, in full sun. 

It was hot and everywhere we looked there were masses of people, tour buses, cars, taxis, and more people.  It was a bit overwhelming.

Prime-Time Dubrovnik

It was two in the afternoon, which, as it turns out, is prime-time for the hoards from the cruise ships, as well as the masses of tour groups, that fill the streets of Old Town. 

We took a deep breath and entered the city walls, on a mission to find our apartment.  

Following google maps, we headed down a long, straight corridor, only about eight feet wide.  The alley was lined with little shops and restaurants.  Stone was everywhere. 

The walkway is made of ancient stone pavers and the buildings are all ancient stone too.  Almost every door we passed had a half window attached, like the letter “P”. Not that we were noticing any of this at the time.  Our complete focus was on maneuvering, ducking, dodging, and make forward progress.

Waves of Humanity

Diving into the alley was like entering a sea of people.  Some were flowing along, some were bobbing about, and others were swirling.  But the real problem were the people who were completely stopped.  

Every 20 feet or so, a group of thirty people, all with matching listening device lanyards, would be stopped in a clump, clogging up the entire alley. They’d be intently listening (through their wireless device) to their tour guide as she pointed here and there. 

I’m typically not an aggressive walker, but I did use an elbow or two to part the seas, so to speak. It was that or be continually delayed. 

There were strollers, rogue toddlers, and people looking in store windows (not looking where they were going).  There were people chatting, babies crying, teens laughing, kids screaming, and smokers smoking.  

And there we were, hot, tired, sweaty, and in unknown territory, wheeling our carry-on luggage through it all.  It was insanity.

It’s Timing

We were certainly a bit apprehensive about the Old Town after our first unpleasant encounter. But we decided it best to not stay holed up in our apartment watching Netflix for a week.  Instead, we mustered the will to leave our humble abode.

We’re so glad we did.  

Dubrovnik really is the magical and breathtaking destination we had heard about and hoped for, just not in the mid-afternoon. It’s magical and breathtaking in the morning before 10 am, and again after 3 or 4 pm. I’ll call these the safe times.  

The safe times are when things are calmer, quieter, and cooler. Most, if not all, of the tour groups and daytime excursions from cruises have not appeared yet, or have gone back from whence they came.

We had a full seven days in Dubrovnik, so we were able to leisurely schedule our days and take advantage of all the Old Town and surrounding areas had to offer.  

We even got used to the mid-day masses, either grinned and beared it, or found a quiet museum to duck into.  

After leaving Dubrovnik we talked to a taxi driver (in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia) who told us October is the best time to visit Dubrovnik. He said in the summer it’s wall to wall people, so much so that you can’t even walk!  So maybe we didn’t have it so bad, after all. 

Old Town Dubrovnik 

Just to be crystal clear, Old Town Dubrovnik is pretty amazing.  

Dubrovnik sits on a rocky plateau that juts out into the Adriatic sea. Get up high and the views are stunning.

The town is home to architectural splendors like the baroque St. Blaise Church and the gothic Rector’s Palace.

Upscale jewelry and clothing shops, cafes, and many, many ice cream stores line the streets. 

The entire Old Town is pedestrian only, so restaurants and cafes compete for space in alleys and thoroughfares. Tables encroach on every walkway. It’s a delicate balancing act between who gets the precious real estate- tables or tourists.

A Sordid Past

Old Town is entirely enclosed by the intact castle walls, which are jaw-dropping cool.  But if you look closely you can see the evidence of a violent time in Croatian history. 

Croatia fought for its independence from Yugoslavia in the early 1990’s. The shrapnel damage can be seen on the walls and in the street pavers. Much of the Old Town was bombed, but thankfully most buildings were left intact. 

Croatia has only been free of communism since 1991, although the country (Yugoslavia) wasn’t closed to the outside world the way Albania, Hungary, or Russia, was, and it shows.  Yugoslavia still had economic ties to the west, and its citizens could travel anywhere. 

Walk the Walk

Of all the “to-do’s” in Dubrovnik, the hands-down highlight was walking the castle walls. 

Walking the walls ranks up there as one of my top five experiences during my travels ever (but don’t ask me to name the others – I was just trying to help you to understand how incredible it was). 

The city walls and ancient town of old Dubrovnik are one of the best preserved in Europe, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (with good reason). 

The city walls were constructed mainly during the 13th–17th centuries.  As we walked, we saw the intricate and complex system of forts, bastions, towers and detached forts. The wall totals 1.25 miles long.

It’s amazing to see how truly massive the walls are. The main wall on the land side is 13-20 feet thick, but narrower on the side facing the sea at a mere 5-10 feet thick. The wall height reaches 83 feet in some places.

We took the advice of everyone and started our wall walk right at 8 am, when the walls opened.  That advice was golden.  We were practically alone for the first half of our walk. Even as the morning progressed, the crowds weren’t bad at all. 

Yep, It’s Magic 

When we got up the steep stairs and emerged onto the wall, I was feeling giddy. The morning sun was rising over the Adriatic Sea.  The water was sparkling and the light on the Old Town was breathtaking. 

Looking out over the red tiled roofs with Lokrum Island and the Adriatic Sea in the distance was simply magnificent. 

I think I took a thousand pictures. The experience is something I’ll never forget. 

Cone Anyone?

I’ve never seen so many ice cream shops in one small area. Probably 50% of the people wandering Old Town are eating ice cream cones, even in the morning.  

And we never had a single ice cream cone while there. I’m not sure why. Maybe the rebel in us. Go figure. 

Our Place

We’ve been told, “Don’t stay in the Old Town!  It’s crowded, busy, and super expensive!”.  Yes, it is all those things.  But after a short adjustment period noted earlier, we thrived in the Old Town.  

We were in a beautiful, centuries old building in a newly renovated apartment right on the busy and activity-filled Gunduliceva Poljana Market Square.  Thankfully our apartment was on the backside of the building, so it was very quiet. 

The Gunduliceva Square was bustling at all hours.  Every morning a farmers market would spring up and fill the square. 

Late in the afternoon the farmers would pack up. Then the local restaurants fill the square with their tables, lit by (fake) candlelight.  It was so charming.

Other things we did:

War Photo Museum

Given the current events in Israel, Gaza, and the West Bank, this museum of compelling war photography was especially gruesome.  The museums intent is to show the realistic effects and horrors of war.  It succeeded.

A Three-Hour Tour

Sorry, that was a lame reference to Gilligan’s Island, a silly sitcom from the 1970’s.  Actually, we took a Three Island Tour, that was more like seven hours.  We went to the Elaphiti Islands, Kolocep, Sipan, and Lopud. 

And while the islands were beautiful, it was a shame that we only were allowed to stay half the time we were promised. Even so, we were able to squeeze in some time on a gorgeous beach on Lopud Island. 

Stroll the Stradun (and Old Town)

The main thoroughfare in the Old Town is the Stradun (or Placa). Walking down the Stradun, it’s incredible to see all the architectural styles. There are Renaissance (Sponza Palace), Gothic (Rector’s Palace which is a history museum now) and Baroque (St. Blaise Church) buildings. 

Ferry to Lokum

Just outside the Old Town harbor, Lokum island looms large. There are multiple ferries daily that only takes 15 minutes to deliver tourists to the small island. 

Lokum Island is a beautiful nature reserve full of groomed walkways, trees, hiking paths, and enormous, flat rock formations that meet up with the sea.

The Iron Throne from the Game of Thrones show was on display on Lokum Island. Much of GOT was filmed in Dubrovnik Old Town, as well as the Elaphiti Islands.

Wins and Losses

Wins

We had sensational weather the entire week – highs in the 80’s and sunshine!

We had a washer…very exciting!

Huge celebration! After 31 days of no TP allowed in the toilet, we have broken free and are once again able to finish things up as usual (and flush the tp)! Thank you Dubrovnik, for having a modern sewage system!

Caught a cool special exhibit on Andy Warhol at the Museum of Modern Art.

Losses

The restaurants were outrageously expensive. Simple entrees, like a burger or pasta dish, were $25-30 or more. And don’t even mention the price of a beer…even a coke was $8! And coffees were more expensive that at home! Yikes. We ended up doing breakfast and most lunches at the apartment to save $$, so it’s all good.

October 8 – 10, 2023

Heading North

We’re on a six hour long bus driving north from Tirana, Albania, to Kotor, Montenegro. 

I’ll be encountering a whole new language in this new country. Time to update the language in Google Translate. I scroll down the list, in search for Montenegrin. 

What’s Up Google Translate?

Languages in the translate app are listed by country, alphabetically. But there’s no Montenegrin. What the heck? For some reason Montenegro didn’t rate with the Google Translate App.

Size Matters

In my crusade to denigrate Google Translate, I decided to pick on Odia. I mean, who’s ever heard of the Odia language (besides Tom, my linguist friend)? Well, I guess 33 million native speakers have. Hmmm…

Ok, then what about Pashto? Turns out Pashto is spoken in Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Iran by 40-60 million people. Hmmm…

A quick Google search shows that the latest data, taken in 2011, indicates that 85,000 people speak Montenegrin. Well, I guess that’s the answer, size does matter. Montenegro is a very small country of only 626,000 people. It’s actually slightly smaller than Connecticut.

It’s All Good

Alas, I was able to look up a few basic Montenegrin words online. I found thank you and hello, but must say I am mightily disappointed in my Google Translate app. I’ve come to trust Google Translate, and frankly, I feel a little betrayed. 

Thankfully, our stay is short; just two nights. Just a quick hit to break up the long bus ride from Albania to Croatia. 

But, I tell you, what a nice place to take a break! 

A Rich History

Kotor is a medieval city. The Old Town is incredibly picturesque, and the town’s history dates back over 2,000 years. 

The first inhabitants of Kotor were the Romans. At that time, the city of Kotor was called Acruvium and it was first mentioned in 168 BC. The walls of Kotor were first built by the Illyrians and Romans, but the “final touch” was given by the Venetians. Emperor Justinian I built a fort above the city in 535 BC.

The Budget

A hit you in the face difference between Albania and Montenegro is the cost of everything.  Although Montenegro is only an EU candidate at this point, their official currency is the euro. And things cost about 50% more here than in Albania.  

We knew a price hike was coming as we headed north, but it’s still hard to take. And we’re heading further north to Dubrovnik, Croatia, then north again to Ljubljana, Slovenia, so we’d better get used to our new reality of pricey locations.

It’s ok though. We’ll do our best to stay thrifty, get a quick glimpse of Kotor, eat some amazing Italian food, visit the maritime museum, and see a zillion cats of all persuasions.

“Cats Are Our Heroes”

As you meander through the winding alleys of Kotor, it’s impossible not to notice all the references to cats. I’d say 90% of the souvenir stores have cat paraphernalia.

Seriously, everywhere you look there are cat mugs, cat ceramics, cat dishtowels, cat tote bags, cat socks, cat artwork, and cat hats. Cat everything. It’s like my Aunt Peggy’s worst nightmare come to life.

I stopped in one tiny shop where the young woman displays her paintings of Kotor, and, of course, paintings of cats. She said “Cats are our heroes”, explaining that in the early 1900’s cats saved the town.

We’re Saved

Folklore has it that Kotor, being located between the mountains and the sea, was once inundated with mice, snakes, and rats. Sailing ships that stopped in Kotor port had cats on board, and the rest is history. Because the ships were from all over the world, Kotor’s cats are quite diverse.

Nowadays the cats have become a kind of symbol both of good luck and prosperity, and of the old town which survived despite the wars, sieges and earthquakes.

Kotor Today

The best way to appreciate old town Kotor is to get lost in the old medieval paver pathways. It’s best to just wander. The small alleyways meander this way and that, popping out onto gorgeous squares full of more delights. 

Beautiful churches, cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops are around every corner. 

Wins & Losses

Wins

One full day in Kotor old town was perfect. It’s a small area, and we covered every bit of the old town. 

Losses

The Kotor Castle: We didn’t make it up to the castle that sits at the top of 1350 stairs. Stairs that are centuries old, crumbled, uneven, and sometimes slippery. My cutoff is any staircase over 1200 steps. Darn, so close, but just a few stairs over my limit. 

Cats: We loved all the cats in town, but after walking through what we deemed “Poop Alley“, I remembered what I don’t like about owning a cat. Enough said.

Next Stop: Dubrovnik, Croatia

September 26 – October 8, 2023

George W. Bush

For a guy I don’t care for much (or at all), George W. Bush certainly has been a prominent feature in my life recently.  You see, the name of the multi-lane street closest to our apartment is Rugga e Barrikadave. We’ve been calling it Dave for short (the Albanian pronunciations are just too challenging).  

So, we were quite surprised to learn that our Dave street actually changes names a few blocks down. It becomes, of all things, Rugga George W. Bush. Ugh.

On top of that, I was casually looking out my bus window on a day-trip out of Tirana. And what do I see but a bar named George W. Bush?  Then, a block later and I see another building with that name emblazoned across it in big golden block letters.  

It’s gotten to the point that I’m not surprised to see W’s name anymore. It appears to be a fixture here in Albania. Why?  Well, the Albanians are very grateful to our former president.

The Albanians have an affection for W and the Americans in general. They’re especially grateful to W for his support in 2007, which ultimately helped Albania join NATO in 2009.

It’s a bit embarrassing that we, as Americans, don’t know Albanian history. Especially when they love us so much. 

And I admit, I didn’t have a clue…until now.

The Albanian Past

The Albanian people have lived through tyrannical, repressive, inhumane, paranoid, tortuous, and controlling regimes from the 1920’s through 1991. First with Italian fascists in control, then the Nazis, and finally the Lenin-socialists (communists).  And, to make matters worse, for nearly 50 years the country was in extreme isolation (1944 to 1991). 

Enver Hoxha, the Stalinist Dictator

In November of 1944, Albania was liberated from the Nazis.  They formed a new state called the Democratic Government of Albania, headed by Enver Hoxha as Prime Minister.

Hoxha immediately established a socialist state. He favored the single-party rule of Albanian communism.

Hoxha proclaimed Albania the world’s first atheist state and proceeded to demolish many historic and beautiful churches and mosques. 

Hoxha oversaw some mild economic progress, and he attempted to eradicate illiteracy in the country. But no accomplishments could ever make up for the damage he inflicted on Albania as its autocratic leader.  

The Sigurimi (Secret Police)

One of Hoxha’s first acts as Prime Minister was to establish the Directorate of the Defense of the People.   Hoxha felt there were enemies everywhere that threatened the nation, both from within and outside the country. 

House of Leaves

Under Hoxha, the House of Leaves became an Interrogation Center “to protect the nation”.  Political enemies were interrogated, tortured, subjected to coercive tactics, and even killed in the central facility.

People were manipulated into spying for the state, both for rewards and to ingratiate themselves with the regime.

Hoxha’s paranoia knew no bounds. Many one-time confidants and trusted comrades were imprisoned and even put to death based on nothing other than Hoxha’s whims. 

Surveillance

Installing bugs in homes, businesses, stores, and everyday items was common.   Nothing was safe from being bugged in order to monitor and root out “enemies of the state”. 

The videotapes of people who lived through the horror of this time were especially powerful. One man recounted how his father was arrested (with no justification), and his family was moved to a new apartment. 

They knew the new apartment was full of bugs.  Everyone in the family had to monitor their every word at all times for years and years. No one could relax and be themselves, so much so that their very personalities were changed by the experience.

The family lived in constant fear. They knew that even if nothing suspicious was said, almost anything could be twisted and used against them.     

Internment Camps

So many people were arrested that the prisons were soon full, so the regime created forced labor camps to house the overflow of “enemies of the state”.

The Hoxha government created 50 internment camps. Thousands of Albanians were imprisoned and forced to work to physical exhaustion and even death.  

A Lone Country

Hoxha was also a staunch isolationist. He felt that any outside influence would be a threat to Albania.

To keep all Albanians inside the country, and anyone from entering, the borders were carefully guarded. The use of specially trained dogs was especially cruel and violent. The dogs hunted down, tracked, and even killed some trying to leave (or enter) the country.

The isolation was very effective. When the country was finally released from the communist grip in 1991, farmers were still using farming methods from the 1920’s. There had been complete isolation for almost fifty years.

The Secret Bunkers

Hoxha’s extreme paranoia led him to believe that Albania was destined for an imminent nuclear or chemical attack.  To prepare, he secretly built hundreds of thousands of bunkers throughout the country in the 1970’s and 80’s. 

These concrete, often mushroom-shaped bunkers come in various sizes and can still be seen all over the country. 

The bunkers were built to last, and are a stark and unwelcome reminder to the Albanian people of a horrible time in their history. 

BUNK’ART 1 & 2

We visited two museums in Tirana that were in decommissioned Bunkers, BUNK’ART 1 and BUNK’ART 2.

BUNK’ART 1 is Enver Hoxha’s decommissioned nuclear bunker. It runs five stories beneath the surface and has a total of 106 rooms, all within an incredible 32,000 square feet.

All the rooms were dimly lit, cold, and claustrophobic. The rooms also had a chemical smell, most likely something to repel mold in the damp conditions.

So many resources were poured into creating these never used bunkers. It’s so sad, when the Albanian people were poor and the country was suffering.

An End to Communism

Hoxha was the longest-ruling Communist leader in history at the time of his death in 1985. It wasn’t until a 1992 election which saw the victory of the nation’s Democratic Party that the Communist rule ended.

Learning of Albania’s severe and horrendous past was intense. Reading examples of resisters being burned alive, shot, or hung was gut wrenching. Some were women, and some as young as 18 years old.

Visiting the places of interrogation, torture, and death left a pit in my stomach and an almost visceral feeling of dread and terror.

It ended only 30 years ago, and seeing actual video footage of people who lived through the horror made it even more profound.

Zone 1

We’re staying in a neighborhood that the guidebooks call Zone 1. It’s always buzzing with activity.

We are near a charming plaza called Pazari i RI, not far from the Skanderbeg Square. Pazari i RI is a pedestrian only area full of small cafes, bakeries, and family run restaurants in a large courtyard that surrounds a modern, covered farmers market.

Between our apartment and Pazari i RI are small alley-like streets with all kinds of small shops, and several bicycle shops too.

Within a minute or two walking there’s a fairly large grocery store, a baker, a butcher, a pharmacy, a hardware store, a salon, and more.  Lots of students clutter the streets in the afternoon when school is let out for the day. And there’s plenty of street art.

Getting to Know You

I’ve got to say, I really am liking it here. This neighborhood is speaking to me. Maybe it’s because we’ve stayed here for almost two weeks. We feel like we are peeling back the layers and going deeper every day.

We’ve found some local, family run restaurants we really like, and we have our local grocer and bakery too. We’ve been using the local buses successfully (mostly), and feel like we know our way around.

It’s easy to walk anywhere we need to, as long as you know what you’re doing. 

The Countdown

As in any large city, locals stand on the corner and wait to cross the street when the light changes.

As it turns out, it doesn’t matter much if you cross with or against the light because the crosswalk isn’t necessarily a safe space anyway. It’s more like a suggestion of a safe space. 

Even with hoards of pedestrians in the crosswalk, cars, and even buses, will push through any slight opening in the crowd. We’ve even seen them pull up so close as to almost touch pedestrians, practically nudging up against the throng of walkers to create an opening!

Alternate Transport

Tirana has an excellent bike lane system throughout the city that is well used. What was surprising was the sheer number of bikes and scooters with electric motors, and just how fast they zip along!

I swear I’ve seen those scooters going 20 or 25 mph. And they are whisper quiet too – so you don’t hear them coming! They rarely yield to pedestrians, and only obey traffic signals when it suits them.

Heading to Skanderbeg Square

At the city center, only a ten minute walk from our apartment, is the expansive Skanderbeg Square. The opera house, the National History Museum, and a statue of Skanderbeg, an Albanian hero, flank the huge tiled square (more on Skanderbeg later in this post).

Big & Modern High Rises

Tons of construction is going on everywhere we look. So many of the high-rise buildings around us are architecturally interesting, and obviously quite modern.

The Toptani shopping mall right in the center of Tirana is a sight to behold. It’s way more modern and fancy than any shopping center back home. Sorry, Alderwood Mall, you just don’t measure up.

The Cafe Culture

So many cafes.  They are always full, from early morning to late into the night.  Every teeny espresso is served up with a large glass of water.  Unfortunately most people are also smoking cigarettes (yuk). 

I’m not sure when all these people eat, but they sure stay caffeinated.

Speaking of Espresso

After a thirty minute walk across town, Steve and I finally found the dentist’s office we were looking for.  KissDent is in a blue-green modern high-rise full of offices and residences. The doorman was waiting in the snazzy, artistically-lighted entry.  

We sat in the small, comfortable, and clean waiting room just across from the receptionist’s desk.  The receptionist popped her head up above the counter and asked us if we’d like an espresso while we waited. This was completely unexpected. 

My first thought was that there’s no way I could have an espresso. Why, I’d just brushed my teeth to come to this appointment!  But, we aren’t in Kansas anymore, Toto.  We’re in Tirana, land of espresso.

Dentistry, Tirana-Style

Apparently dentistry is a thing here in Tirana.  Everywhere we look we see modern & upscale dentist offices. A friend of mine had highly recommended Dr. Alba at KissDent.  She had new veneers done at KissDent a few years back and is still very happy with them.  

After reading lots of five-star reviews, I decided to go for it and have a cleaning, as well as have my veneers replaced (they were very old).  And it didn’t hurt that the cost was about 1/4 of my quote from back home. 

Steve also had a cleaning and a couple of old fillings redone.  

It’s All Good

The office was very modern, clean, and professional.  The staff was well-trained and super friendly.  Dr. Alba has a degree in dentistry and had advanced training in Europe.  The office was as advanced (or more advanced) than any I’ve visited in the U.S.

A New Smile

So now I’m grinning from ear to ear as we make our way here in Tirana.  Thanks, Dr. Alba & staff at KissDent!

Around Town

The violence and oppression that Albania endured over the last century remained visible in the communist block-style, gray, high-rise buildings dotting the city. Years after communism fell, Tirana still reflected its rough past.  

2000: A Facelift

Enter Edi Rama, who locals elected as the mayor of Tirana in 2000. Rama, a former artist, looked to art to help rejuvenate the gloomy, communist-style city.

His idea was to paint the buildings in lively colors and designs in order to “revive the hope that had been lost in my city.”

The reaction was positive and immediate. After revealing the first painted building, crowds gathered to see it, causing traffic jams.

But EU officials, who controlled the funding for Tirana’s rebuilding, opposed Rama’s project. They objected to the splashy colors because it did not meet EU standards. But Rama refused to compromise — even when those officials threatened to block the city’s funds.

We saw many examples of these lively and colorful buildings throughout our stay. Some are quite faded by now, but you can still see how lovely they were at one time.

Sorry, Not Sorry

Thankfully the mayor stood steadfast, stating that “..we have enough grey to last us a lifetime.”

The campaign to revive the capital through architectural art continued. The colors not only changed the look of the city but also the attitude of the people.

A Daytrip to Vruje

One day we made our way, via bus, to Vruje, a medieval town about an hour away from Tirana.  It was a lovely small town, albeit a bit touristy.

The cobblestone winding walkways had lots of shops all selling the same wares. There was enough silver jewelry, lace items, wool handmade slippers, and kilims (Albanian rugs) to sink a ship. 

Skanderbeg

At the top of a hill in town is the Vruje Castle. The Castle was the home and headquarters of the feudal lord and military commander, Gjergj Kastrioti, commonly known as Skanderbeg.

It is here that Skanderbeg became a hero of Albania and fought off the Ottomans in the 1400’s. 

The Final Furgon

We were a little sad to be on our last furgon (mini-bus) in Albania. The furgon to Vruje held about 8 people. It included a very smiley Albanian man who kept trying to reassure us of something – we’re not sure what.  Maybe he wanted us to feel secure in our destination?  It’s hard to know, but he was very sweet and happy.  

Our furgon was scheduled to leave at 11 am, and, as it turns out, so were a bunch of others.  So when the clock struck 11 am, we, along with a mixture of about eight to ten other furgons and full-size buses, started our engines.

The problem was we were in a huge, open expanse of a parking-lot. There were no parking spaces, lines, or directional arrows. And there was just one exit that we were all gunning for.  The cacophony of horns, engines, and yelling was like an unorganized dance of drunk, crazy people. 

It was hard to believe, but no furgons or buses collided. Somehow, we each made our way out of the lot and were on our way. Just another day for the furgon drivers.

Wins and Losses

Wins

Bravo! Bravo! There’s such a strong Italian influence here in Tirana – and so many Italians. This results in a huge WIN because there are so many excellent Italian restaurants about.

The Dude! What else can I say?

Books Galore: After reading about the very high illiteracy rate during the communist time, it was a delight to see books for sale on so many street corners.

Friends in the park: Seeing the same group of cute old men gathered in the park day after day warmed my heart.

Losses

COVID anyone? Walking across town for 45 minutes to have Steve take a COVID-19 test was a bummer, but thankfully it came back negative. He had quite the sore throat, and we needed to be sure it was safe for him to go to the dentist. And it was kind of interesting to spend time in an Albanian hospital, I suppose.

Toilet Paper fun: Yes, it’s day 38 of no tp allowed in the toilet. And what’s worse? We are not in a hotel now, so we (ok, actually Steve), has to take out our bathroom trash out to the street receptacle every few days. Yuk. Thanks Steve!

Saying Goodbye

We’ve loved exploring Albania and are sorry to say goodbye! From the beautiful coast, to the mountain town of Berat, to the capital of Tirana – it’s been incredible.

We had read that Albania has been discovered by tourists, and the beach towns are having a hard time handling their newfound fame. I would say that it does appear to be the case.

The hospitality industry is very new to Albania, and some coastal towns are seeing unchecked and unplanned growth and building. And along with the sudden expansion and popularity, come some other challenges, like garbage, infrastructure issues, and a fairly steep learning curve on how to handle it all.

It will be interesting to see how the popular towns handle the increase in tourism over the next few years. Apparently things have changed enormously already over the past 4-6 years, and not always for the better.

That being said, the beaches and towns of Sarande and Himare were lovely in many ways. And the people were friendly and gracious.

Tirana was probably my favorite though. She stole my heart just a little bit. I hope to see her again.

Next Up: Kotor, Montenegro

September 23-26, 2023

The Windows of Berat

Berat, the city of a thousand windows, lies on either side of the Osum River in the interior of Albania.

Technically speaking, according to Bruno, our free walking tour guide (we tipped him at the end of the tour), there are not a thousand windows. In fact, he said that the windows have been described, in the Albanian language, as “one over one” since they look layered.

Apparently, this Albanian description of the windows, when translated to English, sounds a lot like “a thousand”. So there you have it. Some English speaking tourist overheard incorrectly and started the rumor of a thousand windows, and it stuck.

Both sides of the city are full of whitewashed ancient dwellings dating back to the fourth century. And, as noted above, both have lots and lots of windows. It’s quite a sight to see, especially at night.

Historically, one side of the town is Christian and the other is Muslim, split by the Osum River. The two sides of the town are practically mirror images of the other.

The Berat Castle

We visited the Berat Castle that resides on a very high mountain above the city of Berat. It’s still a living Castle, with a few hundred people still residing within the Castle walls.

There were sweeping views from the castle. We could see all of Berat and the surrounding mountains.

Early in the afternoon we started our way down from the Castle towards the town very far below.  It had just started to rain.  The only way down is on a very steep cobblestone road.

The cobblestones, especially the flat, white stones, can be very slippery when wet. We were carefully watching every step and taking things slow.  

The Frenchman

After just a couple of minutes, a very nice car pulled up next to us. A man leaned over and asked, through the opened window, “Want a ride down into town?”

I looked over at the thirty-something year old driver. He was clean cut, and didn’t look like a serial killer, as far as I could tell. He was driving a very nice and newer model Audi. 

“Yes, for sure”, I happily replied.  

Hitching a Ride

From behind me, I heard Steve ask, “Who is that?”  

“I don’t know”, I replied, as I wholeheartedly jumped into the backseat. Steve was close behind me, skootching on in.   I immediately noticed how pristine the car was, and the beautiful, tan leather upholstery.  For some reason that was reassuring. Bad people don’t usually drive such a nice car, right? Unless they are a very successful bad person, I suppose. Anyway…

Turns out our savior is a Frenchman who runs a tour agency for people in Kosovo.  He lives in Kosovo eight months a year and Berat, Albania, the other four (during the tourist season).  

Our Savior

He drove us all the way to our hotel and dropped us off.  He saved us from slipping and sliding down the side of the mountain for thirty minutes, getting into town wet and most likely, quite ornery.  What a nice guy.

He had pointed out the “only shop” in town that sells authentic, handmade souvenirs, so later in the day, when the rain had subsided, we took a walk to check it out. There wasn’t much of interest to us there, but we did notice a cool antique store close by. 

The Antique Store

Old jewelry, crowns, military uniforms, knick knacks, and political propaganda and paraphernalia covered the walls and floors of the store.  The owner had been sitting out front.  After we’d been browsing a few minutes he entered and asked where we were from.  

Pro-American

There aren’t many people from the United States here, and people are always a bit surprised by us.  Albanians have a special affection for the United States, which they credit with ending their country’s Cold War isolation.

George W.

George W was the first US President to visit post-communist Albania in 2007. He was instrumental in helping them join NATO in 2009.

In appreciation of W’s efforts, a tiny Albanian village (Fushe Kruje) even erected a statue in his honor and named their square after him.

The only picture I could find of the statue has George W’s head cut off. I’m not a W fan, so I’m ok with that.

And Now, Back to the Antique Store

The antique store owner seemed genuinely pleased to get to know us, and asked if we’d join him for some Raki. Soon enough we learned his name was Meril.

I’d read quite a few warnings about Raki, mainly to be darn careful because it’s very strong. But I’d also read that it’s a great Albanian tradition, and I didn’t want to be rude.

Raki For Three

Raki is a sort of fruit brandy typically made from grapes, but also made from plums, mulberry, or even walnuts, depending on the region. It’s the Albanian drink of choice every time. 

Raki can be distilled normally or left to age in oak barrels, and its strength varies from 30% or more, sometimes much more. Many Albanians brew their own at home, in fact, the shopowner’s mother made the Raki we were about to imbibe. 

It Looks Harmless

Meril walked to the front of the store and bent down behind his desk. He brought back a clear glass bottle, the size of a wine bottle.  It was almost filled to the top with a clear liquid that looked just like water. 

On the tray with the Raki were three very tiny glass cups that looked exactly like tiny beer mugs. He filled one and handed it to Steve.  Steve’s was filled to the brim.  I looked at Mirel, and, pointing part way up my tiny cup, motioned for him to pour me half.  

Pick a Language

Meril started objecting in Albanian (at least I think he was…he is a French Professor, but also speaks Italian and English, so it could have been any language really).  In any case, he was definitely objecting in one of his four languages, but I’m sure it wasn’t English. 

An Albanian Treat

He immediately started motioning with one hand, starting up at his chin, then dragging his hand methodically down his neck, further down across his chest, finally stopping at his lower belly.  Up and down, up and down, he repeated the motion several times.  He was trying hard to make a point. 

He then stated that Raki is good for digestion (that seems unlikely).   I was afraid that I understood all too well what he was trying to communicate – that feeling you get when you drink high octane alcohol, and that’s exactly what I was trying to avoid. 

Cheers!

Then we clinked glasses and shot our little cups of Raki on down the hatch, so to speak. And it burned…and it burned…and it burned…all the way down.  It was just as Mirel had motioned repeatedly.  From the neck on down to the base of the belly.  You really could feel the Raki doing its thing. 

Even though I could barely catch my breath, and portions of my body were on fire, I’m very glad we had an authentic Raki experience.  Nothing could be more Albanian.

The Past

We were looking at the propaganda posters and magazines dating from the 1940’s through early 1990’s when Meril told us about his family’s past.  His father was the original owner of the Antique Store, but passed away during Covid.  So very sad.  

Propaganda

Meril volunteered that his father had a hard time seeing the propaganda in his own store. In 1946, Albania had just become a communist state under The People’s Socialist Republic of Albania.

Meril’s father, age 35 in 1946, was suddenly imprisoned for ten years.  His “crime” was having a father (Meril’s grandfather) who had been very wealthy. 

It didn’t matter that his father had passed away when he was just a baby, he had to pay for the “capitalist greed” of his father with ten years of his own life. 

Ten years!

One-Party Rule

Albania was ruled by the one-party communist state for forty-five years, 1946 to 1991. The Republic of Albania was proclaimed in spring of 1991 and the country’s first parliamentary elections were held in March of 1992.  

Albania is currently a parliamentary republic.  The country has applied to become a part of the European Union. Before being accepted, they have challenges to overcome in the fairness of the judiciary, media independence, and corruption in politics, although they are making great efforts in these areas. 

Religious freedom and freedom of assembly are generally respected. 

The Albanian people we’ve met are very proud of their country and all the hardships they’ve overcome.  We’ve found them to be very kind and friendly.  

Chance Encounters

When traveling, it’s the unexpected, the things you can’t schedule or plan for, that are often the best and most cherished memories.  

We are so thankful that we met Meril and that he chose to share some of his family stories, as well as his homemade Raki with us. What an unexpected, up-close peek into Albanian history from a first person source.

Cheers!

Wins & Losses

Wins

All Are Welcome: The Albanians are very tolerant of religious differences. The Christians and Muslims have coexisted in harmony in Berat for centuries. In fact, during WWII, the citizens of Berat hid (and saved) over 600 Jews.

Costs: We are happy to report that the prices in Berat are about 25% less expensive than the southern coastal towns.  Good news!  We can eat a meal, with beer, for 700 to 1000 lek, or $7-10 US dollars.

Medieval Towns: Berat reminded me of another town I fell in love with years ago in Spain, namely Toledo.  Both are medieval towns.  They both have hilly, cobblestone, winding alleys clinging to a steep hillside. 

And you never know what you’ll find around the next corner.  Sometimes you even find a cute little dog sticking his face out of a hole in the gate.

The Teddy Bear Factor: Albanians hang teddy bears or dolls on their fence or outside their home to ward off evil spirits. Here’s one huge teddy bear in a window, way up high on the hillside.

Losses

Rain, rain, rain…we got caught in a torrential downpour with thunder and lightning on our second day in Berat.  We had made our way on foot in a light rain to a highly rated, family run, pizza place about 10 minutes from our hotel. 

We’d been served our pizza at our outside table, under an umbrella, when the sky opened up and the deluge began.  Even though we were under cover, the rain was coming at us from all directions.  

The proprietor, pizza-maker extraordinaire, frantically motioned to us to come into the cramped restaurant. where she threw the dough from scratch.  We, along with two other couples, one with a baby, rushed into the small space. 

We were in close quarters, but were all happy to huddle together and finish our pizzas out of the rain and wind. The heat from the pizza oven kept us all warm & cozy.

The TV: We haven’t had any English speaking TV stations in a month, until now. There’s one tv station available at our hotel that plays all guy-movies, all day. They’re in English with Albanian subtitles. It’s been very rainy, so we’ve watched a bit more than we normally would. War movies, car-chase movies, Sylvester Stallone movies, and Star Wars. Not a Rom-Com in sight.

TP: Just wanted to update you, the reader, that we are still unable to flush our tp down the toilet. So there’s that. And we have another wet bathroom here in Berat (see Himarë post). So be it.

Next Up: Tiranë, Albania

September 19-23, 2023

Himarë

I just got done reading a book I’d downloaded on my kindle called Mother Tongue: The Saga of Three Generations of Balkan Women, by Tania Romanov. I often look to read historical fiction or memoirs about the country I’m visiting. It really helps to gain insight into the people and history of a region. 

The story follows three generations of women that lived in Croatia, Italy, Serbia, and what was once Yugoslavia from 1911 through 1992.

They lived with ethnic hatred and fascist dictators that rose to power, such as Mussolini. There were constant fights over land, and the resulting wars. They were forced to lose everything and relocate more than once in their lifetimes.

The Balkans

We’ll be traveling north to some of those regions soon. But for now, we are here in the small seaside village of Himarë (pronounced Himara), Albania, in a small hotel on the sea.

We have a refrigerator in our hotel room, so we stopped at a mini-market to pick up some drinks and fruit. 

The Mini-Mart Incident

The tiny market, only a minute from our hotel, has fresh fruit out front in crates.  We grabbed a few bananas, then went inside and collected several sparkling waters from the cold case. 

We brought our own bag and set it on the counter. Steve was taking care of the payment. I took that opportunity to check the notes app on my phone, to refresh myself on the Albanian word for thank you. 

The Albanian Language 

I still hadn’t come anywhere close to mastering the word thank you in Albanian. It certainly wasn’t just rolling off my tongue. I was still having a hard time even remembering it.

The previous day at lunch I had successfully said thank you in Albanian to our waiter. I was happy for this opportunity to try it out again. 

Faleminderit (Thank You)

“Fal-eh-meen-dey-reet“, I said, directly to the shopkeeper.

I tried to say it as quickly as I could. I wanted it to sound like the one word that it is, rather than several disconnected sounds. It went pretty well. I felt pretty good about it. 

Did I Do Good?

I looked up from my phone, ready to see an understanding smile and appreciation for my efforts. 

Instead, I was greeted by the scowling face of the older, dark haired shopkeeper.  He had stopped everything. His brow was furrowed in deep lines and his head dipped forward and down in my direction. He pressed his dark, bushy eyebrows out somewhat aggressively towards me. I could tell he was almost fuming. He just glared at me.

Before I could gather myself, the shopkeeper puffed up his chest and, quite passionately, said “No, nooooo! I am Greek. Do not use that word here!”  

I was in shock. There was a momentary pause where I just stood in disbelief. Was this really happening?  I had been so proud of myself. 

A Quick Exit

Flustered, I shoved my phone into my fanny pack, turned, and left the store, hoping Steve was following close behind. He was. 

Looking back it was somewhat humorous. We did get our bearings rather quickly, and had a bit of a laugh about the whole thing. So much for ingratiating myself with the locals by using the local language. 

A Google Search

I decided it was time to do some research. There was obviously more going on here than I was aware of. Yep, time to delve a bit into the local history of this region.

A quick google search and I suddenly had a whole new perspective on the area. There was a long and sordid history of ethnic tensions between the Albanians and the Greeks specifically in this region of Himarë. There has been controversy over the lands and between the residents forever, and it continues to this day. 

I’m making no judgements on who is right or wrong here, I’m just trying to get myself a bit more educated.

Who Came First?

Greeks say they are the original Himarjotsa and the majority in the region, and Albanians claim the same. The 2011 census, the last reliable data, has the Albanians as the majority, but the Wikipedia page has the Greeks as the majority. But the Albanians claim that Wikipedia page was written by Greeks. And it goes on and on. 

I’m obviously oversimplifying.  It’s very complex and goes back years and years and years. And it’s still going on. 

The Major Scandal

As recently as a few weeks ago, in mid-August, a scandal with national implications erupted here in Himarë involving the newly elected major. The major was accused of buying votes and was arrested. He is currently being detained.

The Greek authorities were horrified and claimed the major, who is an Albanian citizen with Greek nationality, was only arrested because of his Greek connections. This ultimately led to the mayors of both Athens and Thessaloniki, Greece, joining a protest in the little village of Himarë. 

There are far reaching implications with this entire incident. Albania has applied for European Union status and is under scrutiny for its justice system fairness, so now the Albanian Prime Minister is involved too.

Just as in my book, there is a very long history of ethnic tension here in this quaint, idyllic seaside village.

And yes, I had to jump right into it with both feet with a simple wish to say thank you. 

Seasonal Shutdown

I knew mid-September was getting towards the end of the summer season in this seaside town. Even so, we were surprised to find only 2-3 restaurants still opening up for service on the south end of town, where we are staying. 

The streets are pretty empty. Not much traffic to contend with.

If we walk 10-15 minutes, following the main street up and over a small hillside, we reach the northern part of town. It has a more touristy feel and is more built up. There are also more open restaurants, but still only about half are providing service.  

There are numerous, large beach bars along the beautiful waterfront here. Many have cool mood lighting and sophisticated sound systems (for a D.J.), but only a handful of sedate patrons were in the bar, and all was quiet for our stay.

There’s hundreds of lounge chairs and umbrellas too, but most are folded up for the winter.  Maybe 10-15% are being used this week.

We just barely made it in time before the whole town closes for the winter and we’re so glad we did.

I’m sure our experience here would have been very different in the busy summer season, but we were happy to have a slow & quiet retreat. 

The Beach 

Himarë is located on the Himarë Gulf of the Ionian Sea, surrounded by the treed Llogara mountains. 

At our hotel, Mare Bed & Breakfast, we have our own tiny private beach cove. It’s surrounded by jagged white rocks on either side that open to a perfect little entrance into the clear turquoise water. Our “cove” readily connects to a much larger beach, but it’s easy to pretend it’s all ours. 

Bunkers

Our amazing view from our ocean front third floor hotel room includes an odd sight.  Just to the right of our little beach area are two round, cement and steel, pod-like bunkers. 

They measure maybe 10’ across and appear to be only 4-5’ high. These particular bunkers have a nice view of the Ionian Sea.

The mushroom shaped bunkers are unique to Allbania. They were built during the Cold War, in secrecy, in the 1970s and 1980s, by Albania’s Communist dictator, Enver Hoxha, who ran a paranoia-fueled regime. 

There is a bunker for every 14 square miles all over Albania. Estimates put the total number of Bunkers at up to 750,000!

Getting Around

It’s almost time to head out of Himarë , so it’s time to try to get our ducks in a row, so to speak.  Public transportation is an interesting adventure here in Albania. Similar to Turkey, getting from town to town is best done by the mini-bus system. In Turkey the small vans are called Dolmus. Here, in Albania they’re called Furgons. 

Time to Plan?

It’s a bit of a puzzle to plan transport to the next town.  The first step is to figure out where the furgons gather. There’s not a bus terminal in the towns we’ve been in so far. Instead, the buses gather in an area on the side of the street where they stop to load & unload. The location is typically in the center of the town, but you have to know exactly where.

It’s a bit hit or miss because if you ask around, you often you get conflicting answers. It’s best to ask many sources and get a consensus, then actually walk to the designated spot to vertify the furgons are actually there!  

We’d ask at our hotel, at lunch, in a mini-mart, or approach someone that looks friendly on the street. We’d also pose the question on a travel forum.

The Bus Schedule

Sometimes there is a schedule posted on an A-Board where the furgons have amassed. Unfortunately, the schedule seems to have no discernible connection to reality.  And it’s not like you can check an online bus schedule either – those don’t exist for furgons. 

Each furgon has a large sign posted in the front window listing its destinations. So it’s just a matter of searching around until you find your ride.  The drivers are typically hanging around somewhere in the close vicinity. They’re usually smoking a cigarette, and are happy to help direct you to the right rig. 

The Actual Event

The morning of our departure from Sarandë (to Himarë), the furgon with “Vlore, Himarë ” in the window was the first bus we encountered.  Steve walked to the back by the trunk area and the driver loaded up our backpacks.

I’ve read over and over that the furgons leave for their destination when they’re full, but that hasn’t been our experience.  More typically the driver knows the exact time of departure.

Our driver, in his skin tight, dark purple pants and bright white polo shirt, had gone over to the shady side of the street, opposite the furgon.  He was hanging out, yelling out to the occasional friend that drove by.   I approached him and asked what time the bus leaves.  Thankfully it was in about 20 minutes (9:00 in the morning). 

I’d also read that the furgon can be jam-packed (standing room only), with no air conditioning, and basically miserable. Maybe it’s because we’re in the shoulder-season, but we each had a seat and our furgon had decent air conditioning too.  It’s still in the mid-80’s, so we sure were thankful for the A/C. 

It’s not in my nature to wing-it, so traveling by furgon (or dolmus in Turkey) is a bit out of my comfort zone, but that’s ok (not that I have a choice – haha).  And we’ve been incredibly lucky using both the dolmus system in Turkey, and, so far, the furgon system in Albania.

Let’s hope that continues. 

WINS & LOSSES

Wins

It sure was nice having four lazy, relaxing beach days in Himarë . Half the days we had our beach all to ourselves. Soooo nice. 

Losses

The Wet Room

We were first introduced to a wet bathroom in Thailand years ago. And now we’re getting a refresher here in Himarë. 

Yes, it’s a bathroom with toilet, sink, and shower, all in one 4 foot by 4 foot space!  So when you shower, it’s in one happy, condensed, multi-purpose, wet room! Good space saving idea and mighty functional.

Oh, and a gigantic squeegee almost the size of a push broom is provided so you can help dry things up a bit faster when you’re done showering. No instructions necessary. Just finish up your shower, grab the squeegee, and push the water towards that center drain. There’s nothing to it!

The success to having a wet room involves careful planning. Just make sure all your travel companions have used the bathroom prior to your shower. You’ll need a good 30 minutes plus before re-entering!

Next Up: Berat, Albania

September 16-18, 2023

The Hydrofoil

We arrived in Sarandë, Albania, on a hot, muggy afternoon via a hydrofoil on the Finikas Boat line from Corfu, Greece.  The boat looked pretty ancient.  It was completely enclosed and looked like a submarine that had just surfaced.  A really old, somewhat beat-up submarine.

It had two smoke stacks, both with thick black smoke puffing into the blue sky. Kind of a polluting hazard.  But it did get us to Sarandë, albeit one hour late.  

Little did we know that Sarandë’s time difference is one hour earlier than Corfu-time (our origin), so we actually arrived on time!  Life is funny like that sometimes.

The Hotel Kaonia

Our hotel has a balcony with the classic white plastic table & chairs.  It’s not too elegant, but the view looking straight out to the Adriatic Sea is worth a million dollars.  There’s a lovely, wide, pedestrian only (mostly) promenade along the water, with large palm trees, green wrought iron benches, a non-functioning fountain and a lovely, pebble beach. 

The Sarandë Public Beach

The water is a gorgeous turquoise, and is crisp and cool.  It feels wonderful on these hot and sticky days we’re having now in mid-September. 

Turns out our hotel lends out beach umbrellas, so we are happy as can be.  We have our Turkish towels, multi-purpose woven delights we purchased last fall in Turkey, plenty of sunscreen, our kindles, and can borrow an umbrella. 

Butrint National Archaeological Park

We really enjoy visiting archeological sites so made a point of scheduling The Butrint National Park in our Sarandë itinerary. 

Butrint is the most famous attraction in southern Albania and the UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s also the most visited archaeological park in the country.  

The ruins at Butrint are 2,500 years old. Some are the best-preserved Roman ruins across all of Europe. Butrint was an important stop along a major trade route in the eighth century and was controlled by various empires, including the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans. 

In order to beat the heat of the day, we made sure to catch an early morning bus to the archeological site.

The ride takes about 40 minutes, and costs 200 lek each, or the equivalent of $2 US dollars each.  

Butrint National Park is 36 square miles and includes wetlands, marshes, reed beds, coastal waters, rocky shorelines, sandy beaches, and Mediterranean forests. Thankfully it’s very shady on most of the trails that wind through the ruins of the city.  

The Roman theatre of Butrint is among the best preserved buildings of the town.

Beach Day

We spent our last day in Sarande lazing around on the beach. We borrowed our colorful, but faded, beach umbrella from the hotel clerk (owner?), who speaks virtually no English. But we are in Albania, so that’s fair.

The Umbrella

I approached the elder clerk, saying “May I please borrow a beach umbrella?” He gave me a blank stare. I probably would have just given up then, but we knew they had beach umbrellas to lend, since we had talked to his adult son the night before (who does speak English).

Again, “Do you have a beach umbrella?”

Another moment of blank staring, then he assertively pointed his finger at me, almost poking me dead in the stomach, and said as a forceful statement, “You want an umbrella.”

“Yes, that would be great!”, I said with much delight, so happy to have made a connection.

If only we could have some small folding chairs… but beggars can’t be choosers, and we were very happy to have an umbrella to protect us from the blazing heat of the day.

A Bed of Pebbles & Rocks

That being said, we were really feeling our age as we sat for three and a half hours on the pebbles and rocks, since there is no sand. I did have the great idea to bring along my inflatable plane pillow, so at least when I laid down to read my head was comfortable, even if the rest of me wasn’t.

But the water was glorious, and I visited it multiple times. And the umbrella kept us in the shade and comfortable. What a great way to spend a lazy day on the Adriatic.

We knew it was time to go when our trusty umbrella made the decision for us by suddenly flying into the air when a gust of wind came up in the early afternoon. Yep, time for lunch.

Wins & Losses

Wins

Sarandë has a cool vibe. It’s a bit of a party-town, at least here at the hotel & restaurant laden promenade along the waterfront. There are several bars playing loud music in the night, and a crazy party ship that cruises the bay every evening with an incredibly loud sound system and wild lights outlining the ship.

There’s much more to Sarandë , I’m sure of that. We barely scratched the surface. We didn’t make it very far from the waterfront area, except to a great little eatery in the downtown area, Pita e Qytetit. Good food and phenomenal prices. Dinner for two and beer under $10. Was nice to see at least a little bit of the real town.

Money

This is one of the very easiest conversions we’ve ever had in a country.  The Lek is 100:1 USD.  It’s so nice to calculate the costs so quickly and easily.

New Friends

We enjoyed meeting Janny and Greg on the local bus as we returned from Butrint. Kindred spirits for sure. They are Australian, around our age, and are in the process of buying a 2-bedroom apartment with a beautiful water view and will live here for 10 months out of the year (they’ll travel in July & August to beat the heat and the tourists).

They obviously love Sarandë and Albania. I can’t wait to see more of the country that won their hearts.

Unique Chip Choices

You’ve got to love it when your chip choices are Oregano or Ketchup flavored. I picked Oregano.

Losses

As I entered the washroom at Butrint Archeological Park, an Albanian attendant there looked at me and said, in a subdued, almost grumbling tone, “Problem….problem”.

Hmmm…not sure what that means, but doesn’t sound great. Turns out the water wasn’t working in the sink – or the toilet, but thankfully I was able to do my business and headed out.

As I left, she looked at me apologetically and again said, “Problem….problem”. I appreciate her effort. That’s more than I can say in Albanian.

Next stop: Himarë, Albania

September 13-16, 2023

Southern Albania

We just finished up our quick, 3-night stay in Corfu Greece. Truthfully, the only reason Corfu ended up on our itinerary was so we could catch a ferry to Saranda, on the Albanian Riviera.

After some research back home, I found that a ferry from the Greek island of Corfu is the best and most direct way to get to the far south of Albania.  So, Corfu it was.

And besides being a convenient gateway into Albania, Corfu just happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Center, so we knew it had a lot going for it, besides its cute white cats.

Historically, Corfu goes back to the 8th century BC and to the Byzantine period. It’s been subject to various influences and a mix of different peoples. From the 15th century, Corfu was under Venetian rule for some four centuries, then passing to French, British and Greek governments.

Because of it’s long Venetian rule, Corfu is unique in Greece due to the pastel buildings seen everywhere, rather than the whitewashed buildings usually seen in Greece.

Corfu Town

I certainly cannot complain about our detour to this small Greek island. It was certainly a bit more glamorous than Istanbul, in an upscale shopping, beautiful-people kind of way.  It’s not our typical scene, and a bit more pricey than we would have liked, but it was picturesque and had a lovely appeal.  

We stayed in the heart of Corfu Town, in a comfy and cozy apartment in a very central location. 

About Town

Corfu Town is a shoppers paradise, with lots of unique and trendy little shops dotted all over the waterfront part of town. The charming, narrow streets looked more like paths from a ferry tale, with ivy and flowering plants draped everywhere, and old stone buildings with lots of character. 

Here and there we’d see colorful laundry hanging high above us, strung between buildings or across the narrow streets, which just added to the charm of this magical place.

There was a shoemaker, an incredible bakery, unique jewelry shops, coffee shops, and lots and lots of restaurants. There were also lots and lots of tourists, all dressed in cute gauze dresses and sandals, with their tans and cute accessories. 

A Fashion Icon

And there I was in my Columbia quick-dry shorts and one of five tops that I packed for our 53 days.  Not so cute or trendy, but I’m also not lugging a giant suitcase everywhere I go. 😂 Oh, and I do have my new blue hat that is pretty cute, if I do say so myself.

The Old Fortress

We meandered through the very crowded streets over to the Old Fortress, a mammoth fort built on a peninsula that juts out into the Ionian Sea.  

As impressive as the fort looked, when we saw multiple huge tour buses waiting and/or dropping off their passengers, the very long line for tickets, and the masses of people milling about out front, we decided it would be best to return tomorrow morning, nice and early. 

Turns out the port of Corfu is a cruise ship stop, and obviously the Old Fortress was a big draw. 

Next Day, 9 am

After cooking up some breakfast and making some delicious espresso in our very own kitchen, we headed back to the Old Fort and had it practically to ourselves. 

We climbed all the way up to the top of the fortress, and the views we were rewarded with were mesmerizing. Towards the Ionian Sea, the clouds decided to cooperate and made a canvas like no other. In the opposite direction we had a sweeping view of the entirety of Corfu Town.

After a thorough romp around the Fortress, we were more than ready for a swim. Our Airbnb host gave us the goods on a nice swim spot in town where many locals go, so off we went. 

A Dip To Cool Off

The water was beautiful. It’s cool as you get in, but when it’s 83 and muggy out, it feels great. I’m so glad I brought my $5 water shoes that I bought last year in Turkey. They really saved my tired out feet on the pebble shoreline, even if they are dayglow green and a bit cheap looking.  They get the job done. 

Wins and Losses

Wins

Having a kitchen was such a big win! 

Getting a quick taste of Corfu was great fun. Now we have to come back and visit the whole island to see all the beautiful beaches up north that we missed this time. 

Losses

It’s day 16 of absolutely no toilet paper in the toilet. As in, do not flush the tp ever. The Turkish, Greek, and now Albanian sewage systems are not equipped for any paper products.

I will say it’s usually not a big deal, but sometimes it is. Haha…I’ll leave that to your imagination.

October 28 – Nov 2

A Frontier Town

We arrived at Cappadocia in a shuttle from the Kayseri airport. Our first impression of the town wasn’t what we’d expected.  

Cappadocia is a huge tourist draw. It’s the second most popular tourist destination in all of Turkey (second only to the incredible Roman ruins at Ephesus near Selcuk). 

The Cappadocia region is famous for its unique, jaw-dropping terrain formed over 60 million years ago, and the hundreds of hot air balloons that dot the sky every morning to get the best views.

I expected a very polished town, a tourist town, ready to greet tourists from near and far, or at least a town with paved streets.  I didn’t expect to enter a Frontier Town, with dirt streets in disarray.  And that’s being kind.

On Our Way

We rode in a 16 passenger van from the airport to Cappadocia.  Cappadocia is a landlocked semi-arid region in central Turkey, very far from the towns along the Mediterranean we’d been enjoying for the past few weeks.

The ride was lovely. We drove on modern, uncongested freeways, but when we arrived in Cappadocia it was a very different story.

The Streets of Cappadocia

Driving straight up a steep, narrow, and winding dirt road, full of potholes, ruts and loose gravel, in a large passenger van leaves a lasting impression.

The van rocked and almost rolled, bounced, leaned, then would regain its composure and start all over again. I’d find myself holding my breath, only to realize and let it go in one slow, long exhale, in an effort to calm myself.   

Our van proceeded to wind up the steep hills, dropping off other arriving tourists, like us.  We felt like we should have been driving an ATV or a four-wheel vehicle in these conditions. The roads were really beat up.  Thankfully the driver did seem to know what he was doing, so we were (mostly) able to sit back and enjoy our roller-coaster ride.   

The Cave-Hotel

We watched as, one by one, the van emptied.  Most of the hotels in Cappadocia are “Cave-Hotels”, including ours. After all, if you’re in a region known for its incredible rock & cave formations, you’ve got to stay in a cave.  

I had booked the most budget level cave in a highly rated cave hotel, the Arif Cave Hotel. Our reserved cave had no windows, which is why it was so affordable. We’d be hob-knobbing with people paying two and three times our rate, but heck, at least we’d reap the benefits of a first-tier hotel with our best Turkish breakfasts yet, even if we don’t have windows. 

On the bright side (excuse the pun), there’d be no need for me to wear my eye mask at night.  No worries about too much light flooding the room in the morning.  It’d be like being in, well, a cave.  

Much to my delight, when we arrived, the owner gave us a free upgrade.  So we did have a window, actually two windows, after all.  

When booking a cave hotel room, I’d pictured a rough interior, like caves I’ve been in, but these were luxury caves. The cave-rock is very soft and easy to dig and mold, but once exposed to air, hardens quickly. 

Our room had beautiful, textured walls and all kinds of decorative carvings throughout, beautiful lighting, a nice bathroom, and a sitting area.

The Town

The heart of town is flat with lots of shops, cafes, restaurants, tour agencies, carpet shops, and a bus station. The town is small.  The downtown is easy to walk, and has a definite charm about it. 

Of course, the most striking feature of the town are the cave rock formations that jet straight up two or three stories high. It looks like a made-for-Disneyland set, but it’s real.

The Rutted Roads

The vast majority of the hotels are up the steep lanes that wind up the hill. The streets, in both the flat area and hillside hotel areas, are a mix and mess of dry, powdery dirt (sometimes an inch deep), a little gravel, deep, jagged ruts, with an occasional paver.  There’s also a fair amount of mud and puddles due to the city spraying water in an attempt to keep the dust down.  

Because of the street conditions, walking around requires a keen eye and quick feet.  It’s a game of extremes, puddles, mud, and muck versus extremely dry, powdery dirt and gravel. 

We’d set out, ready at any moment to jump a puddle, steer clear of mud, or be forced to walk in tiny, exacting steps going down the steep hill caked in powdery dirt. It’s a deliberate process where focus is paramount. 

Slipping & Sliding

We’ve both slipped a few times already on the steep descent from our cave-hotel to the town below. The powdery dirt provides a perfect equation for slippage, resulting in that feeling of not quite knowing when the slide will end.

Your stomach lurches just a bit, and your arms jet out to the side to give yourself balance. It’s hard not to look around to see if anyone is watching you flail.

Yes, the descent to town is a bit anxiety-provoking. I ask Steve to walk ahead of me, so if I go into an uncontrolled slide he will (hopefully) stop my fall, or at least cushion it a bit.  So far, so good.

Turns out, as we learned on almost our last day, the city is putting in gas lines & internet cable. They’ve ripped up 95% of the pavers that once made the town drivable and walkable (and cuter too). You know, like a modern-day town. 

The residents and tourists alike have lived with the paver-less streets for over a year.  Sounds like it will be another couple of years (at least) until the streets are paved again.  I am so relieved to learn that Cappadocia is not a forever Frontier Town. Yee-haw.

Images Say It Best

If there’s any place in Turkey that can be best represented in photographs, it’s Cappadocia.  The wonder of the terrain, along with the hundreds of early morning balloons across the expansive skyline is hard to describe in words.  So yes, pictures say it best.  

Blogworthy Pictures

Talk about an impossible task.  Just going through the thousands of pictures I took in Cappadocia and trying to select the best was daunting.  In my first run through, where I try to select the most blogworthy pictures, I ended up with 250 photos.  That’s a bit too many for any blog post.  Yeah, it’s hard to pare these beauties down. 

The View from Arif Cave Hotel

Our cave hotel, that I’ve already mentioned, was one of the highest on the hill overlooking town. The hotel was, in fact, directly below the pay-to-enter viewpoint on the ridge.  It was the perfect location for views of everything, complete with Ottoman style couches to lounge on and several levels of viewing decks.  

Early Morning Wonder

Every morning, weather permitting, there’s a spectacular morning display of hundreds of balloons dotting the sky.  The balloons launch every morning at dawn and put on a show like no other.

Our mornings were crisp, clear, and cold, in the high 20’s (Fahrenheit).

In the early morning darkness we were thrilled to witness dozens of brightly colored balloons getting ready to launch, still on the ground.  It was like a magical light show as the balloons blinked brightly aglow in quick succession, on and off, on and off, igniting their flames to fill in preparation for take-off. 

The scene changes minute by minute with the changes in lighting as the sun rises. The balloons move slowly, mixing and matching in various configurations, coming and going, high and low. The balloons are a mesmerizing orchestra of color and graceful movement.

The Main Event

I’d seen the pictures of the spectacle and knew what to expect, but being there, in person on the hillside, was so much more amazing than I could have imagined. 

Our position high up on the hill gave us the opportunity to feel like we were amongst the balloons, floating right along with them. 

A balloon would pass right in front of us, or even beneath us, skimming the town below. We shouted our hellos to those passing by in their giant baskets holding anywhere from 16 to 32 people, suspended in the sky. 

Some balloons passed so close that we could see the burner, which injects a flame into the balloon, heating the air within. The flame would make a deafening roar as it blasted upwards into the balloon, taking the balloon higher and higher, and away from our gaze.

The Magic Land of Cappadocia

Fairy Chimneys, gnome houses, cave dwellings, underground cities, cave churches, and more are all part of the Goreme valley magic.  The soft volcanic rock formations, many several stories high, are all over the valley and are a wonder to behold. 

The fascinating topography began over 60 million years ago and can be seen in various stages even today.  Wind, climate, rain, snow, and rivers caused and continue to cause erosion, giving Cappadocia its unusual and unique rock formations.

For thousands of years humans have carved incredible chambers and tunnel complexes into the soft rock.

A Place of Refuge

The area has a very long history, but of particular interest is that the early Christians, fleeing persecution from the Romans in the 4th Century onwards, took refuge in the caves of Cappadocia.  It was the perfect hiding place. 

When visiting Goreme Open Air Museum, we were able to enter several of the churches the Christians had carved into the existing caves.  Many have well preserved cave paintings.  

Unfortunately we weren’t able to take any pictures inside the cave churches, but I’ve included some pictures from one church we visited, the “Dark Church”, that I found on the internet.  

We were so impressed with the quality of the paintings and their longevity.  Standing in the Dark Church, so beautifully decorated with the detailed paintings enveloping us, was truly a marvel. 

Love Valley

After touring Goreme Open Air Museum, full of cave churches and Christian lore, we entered Love Valley, which was quite a contrast.  We had no idea why it was called Love Valley, until we walked to the viewpoint and looked out at the expansive view of what looked like giant penises sprouting up out of the ground.  

It’s a bit uncomfortable gazing out at the large formations with a lot of international strangers.  No one is saying it out loud, but we all are thinking the same thing (but maybe in different languages). 

Whatever those formations resemble, no one can deny they are very impressive, like all the unique and magical formations found in this unique valley. 

An Abrupt End

We were scheduled to finish up Cappadocia after a five day stay and head to our final destination, Istanbul, for 12 nights. That was not to be.

The Turkey trip was brought to an unexpected end because our dog suddenly got very sick. After a long night of phone calls with our Veterinarian (the 10-hour time difference was a b*tch), we knew we had to get home to help our dog in her final days. 

Next came a whirlwind of arranging new fights to Istanbul and ultimately home, cancelling our Istanbul reservations, and cutting our Cappadocia stay short.  

It was very sad to leave Turkey so abruptly.  But, there was no question, we knew it was the only thing we could do. We had to be with Bailey.  Thankfully we did make it home in time to spend a couple of quality days with Bailey before she succumbed to her cancer.  

This should probably be at the end of my post, but I just couldn’t end on such a depressing note, so instead I’ll continue with our carpet tale in Cappadocia.

Turkish Carpets

I really wanted to buy a Turkish carpet in Turkey, but frankly it’s a bit intimidating.  I’m a novice rug-buyer in a land of experienced scammers selling machine-made rugs at hand-made rug prices. 

Thankfully we were able to spend a carefree day (before we knew how serious things were with our dog) in a Turkish carpet shop with Ali.  

Sultan Carpets

Ali owns Sultan Carpets, in the heart of Cappadocia, a shop full of beautiful hand-made Turkish carpets.

I instantly liked Ali.  He’d been in the Turkish carpet business for 25 years.  In fact, we came to find out that he had lived in Kirkland, Washington (a stone’s throw from our home) selling Turkish carpets for about 5 years, 15 years ago. He spoke perfect English, and seemed like a sincere, experienced, knowledgeable carpet seller.  

Of course, you never know.  I had read someone’s experience of carpet buying in Turkey before our trip, and something they said had really stuck with me. 

There’s always a chance that your expensive carpet isn’t authentic.  That’s just a chance you take.  But when you look back, the thing to value the most is the whole ritual of picking out the carpet (this takes hours!). 

It’s the memory and the enjoyment of seeing that carpet every day that matters the most.  So, that was my mantra.

Wins

Experiencing the unique and magical terrain of Cappadocia and staying in a cave!

Finally finding, and buying, two Ottoman stools (I was obsessed with finding) after a long day of traveling to two different towns to hunt them down!

Watching the early morning balloon display in the freezing clear, crisp, and cold of Cappadocia!

The whole carpet buying experience! Meeting Ali and enjoying his Turkish generosity and hospitality!

Having one last bowl of Manti (like tortellini), the best of the entire trip!

Cappadocia was a unique and fun adventure through and through.

Losses

Of course Bailey was a huge loss. 🙁

We missed Istanbul.  We were only in Istanbul for two overnights while waiting for a plane to elsewhere, but definitely plan to visit Istanbul another time.  Now we can make another adventure out of our missed opportunity and pair up Istanbul with perhaps Bulgaria and Albania.  I can’t wait!

All the losses don’t hold a candle to all the wins. We’re so glad we got to explore and experience Cappadocia!