The day we arrived in Evora, Portugal, we headed into the main square, Praca de Giraldo. We immediately noticed large groups of young people gathered in black capes. We had read that college students in Portugal wear long, black capes year round.
Even though we knew these must be Evora University students, it felt like we were in another time in history, or maybe at a costume party. We felt strangely out of place in our REI shorts and cotton t-shirts.
It turns out that J.K. Rowling, the creator of the Harry Potter series, started her writing while in Portugal. The Portuguese college students, in their long black robes, were her inspiration for the Hogwarts “uniform”.
Chanting & Marching
We watched in fascination as the black caped students chanted, arm in arm. They formed large circles and smaller clusters throughout the square, centered mostly around the large fountain. Their chanting was boisterous and continued to get louder and louder.
Then our attention was pulled to somewhere beyond the square. We could hear loud yells and commotion, but couldn’t be sure where it was coming from. Then a chain of students, connected like a centipede, popped into the square from a side alley. They were wearing outlandish outfits with colorful balloons and feathers stuck to their bodies, yelling, throwing their arms about, and generally calling attention to themselves.
A Shoe On The Head?
The chanting and marching were fun to watch, but when we saw students balancing shoes on their heads all over the square, while other students took their picture, we really started to wonder.
Students were everywhere putting shoes on their heads. Some shoe-heads were posing singularly, usually kneeling down. Others were in large groups creating a pyramid, all while balancing shoes on their heads.
We wondered if this was some sort of political protest or Greek-life shenanigans. I was dying to run around and take tons of pictures, but I was worried about intruding, so only got a few pictures from afar.
I had to solve this mystery, so I sought out some 20-something young women working at a store nearby.
They pondered how to explain it to me in English, and finally said it was something like our fraternities and sororities, but not exactly the same.
Mystery Solved
The store employees explained that there are no separate women & men “Greek-like” organizations in Portugal. The entire college community gather as one in the fall and “bond” by doing silly things and embarrassing the freshman. Apparently this year the upperclassmen decided that making the freshman balance a shoe on their head would be just the indoctrination needed.
Students use Praca de Giraldo as a gathering spot, since Evora University is spread all over the city
The best thing about the Portuguese “non-Greek” system is that, after the fun “getting to know you” phase in the fall, the seniors each match up with a freshman. The seniors then mentor and support their freshman match during their first college year.
I love this idea. It reminds me of an independent school I know a bit about (I’m one of the founders), The Attic Learning Community, near Seattle, Washington, where multi-age mentoring works wonders.
I’m not at all surprised the Portuguese continue to nurture this fine tradition of older students mentoring younger ones. Bravo.
The alarm went off at 6 am, and we caught the 6:45 early morning bus to Lagos, with our ultimate destination being Evora. It was the onlybus leaving Salema that day that worked with our connection, so it was early or nothing. From there we had to make two more connections before finally arriving in Evora.
Rede Express Bus
In all we were traveling for 9 hours, with just a few minutes downtime between connections. It was one long day. Our previous long bus ride a week ago sold sandwiches and freshly brewed espresso. Unfortunately, these buses had no food options, but luckily we had packed the Portuguese equivalent of strawberry Pop Tarts (but much thinner and crunchier). Not our normal food fare, but sometimes you don’t have a choice.
Golden Hills of the Alentejo Region
We were heading north into the arid plains of the Alentejo region. So much of the terrain we passed through looked just like the golden California foothills.
Storks!
As the bus made its way, I was thrilled to recognize something I’d only ever seen in Morocco just last year, storks nests. The nests are always at the highest point to be found, like a high column or chimney. Storks build their massive nests out of sticks. It’s really quite amazing to see and never gets old.
Capela dos Ossos
Once in Evora, we made a point to visit Capela dos Ossos, or The Chapel of Bones. I wasn’t sure how I’d feel entering a chapel where all the walls are covered in real human bones, but I must say it was very impressive, if not a bit jaw dropping (excuse the pun). I’ve been to countless breathtaking churches throughout Europe, but this is one I’ll never forget.
Lots of Skulls
A Pillar of Bones
The history and message of the chapel are profound and powerful. The chapel was the idea of three Franciscan friars. Their goal was to convey the message of temporariness and fragility of human life. This message “We bones that are here, for yours we wait” is prominently etched on the arch above the chapel entrance for all to see.
Another Example of Patterns Out of Bones
The Chapel was built in the late 1500’s with thousands of bones of monks and others excavated from area cemeteries. It was fascinating to carefully study the walls, pillars, ceiling trim, and doorways – all covered with bones in unique ways to form patterns and adorn the chapel.
Pelvis above door with a skull inside
There was even a complete pelvis bone with a skull positioned inside atop the exit doors on either side of the altar. Creative, and yet kind of creepy.
Cemiterio do Mindelo
Speaking of cemeteries, when we walked into town from the bus station to our hotel, I saw a huge, ancient looking cemetery. I made a mental note to go back, if we had time. I love walking through old cemeteries, reading the birth and death years, and reflecting on the people’s lives from long ago.
On our last afternoon we did visit the cemetery and saw rows and rows of family tombs, mainly made of white marble, many from the 1500’s. I’ve never seen so many tombs all lined up on both sides of the pathways, like residential neighborhoods of the deceased.
Endless rows of tombs lined the “streets” of the Cemetery
I’m sure the tombs must be a measure of the wealth and power of a family. It looked to me like each tomb was bigger and more ornate than the next. An end-of life version of keeping up with the Joneses.
Meandering in Evora
S & T
Baby Peacocks
Praca do Giraldo
Moving on to less morbid aspects of Evora, we followed the Rick Steves (travel writer) walk as outlined in his book on Portugal. Evora is the perfect size town for walking. It’s nice and compact. We started at the central square, Praça do Giraldo, about a two minute walk from our hotel.
City Hall
Temple of Diana
Cool Home
We meandered through the hilly cobblestone streets, visiting the ancient Roman Temple of Evora (also called the Temple of Diana), the Cathedral of Evora, City Hall, and a lovely park with the year 1886 spelled out in the black and white tiles at the entry gate. I was especially surprised to see baby peacocks at the park, running around 4-5 adult peacocks.
Cathedral of Evora
Park built in 1886
Awesome Ironwork
The Yellow-Heads
A group of young students, all wearing turquoise shirts and yellow caps, made their way past us with their teacher leading the way, heading for parts unknown. So cute. Steve was also wearing turquoise, but no yellow cap. I guess he only got part of the memo.
Steve thinking about Joining this school outing, since he’s wearing the right color
Google Translate Gone Wrong
We ate lunch in a very small eatery that barely had room for two small tables, way up the road from the central square, away from most tourists.
There was a handwritten white board menu out front. I quickly used google translate to check a few of the offerings, and was horrified when one came up as a dog sandwich. What the heck? With a little more research I figured out the menu item was a hot dog, thank goodness.
There were only locals in the joint, and when we tried to order the proprietor gave me a deer in the headlights look, turned away, and promptly went to the back to fetch his wife, who could manage some English. We ended up ordering baguette sandwiches, but didn’t dare order the hot dog – just in case.
The Orange Sunset
This is really how it looked! No filter or enhancements!
On our last evening in Evora we caught a spectacular sunset. It was by sheer luck that we saw it because of a timing error on our part. The restaurant we walked to for dinner, down a side street off the main square, didn’t open for 10 minutes, so we headed back up the hill to kill some time. We plopped down on the large marble slabs that surround the broad, round fountain. It was then that Steve noticed an intense, orange sunset developing just behind me. Wow, no filter or enhancement needed (or applied) to these sunset photos. So glad we didn’t miss it!
Wins and Losses
Wins
Met a lovely couple from Lexington, Kentucky, one day at lunch. Thanks Ann & Kevin for being liberals from the south. I really appreciate you and enjoyed our chat!
We loved the Ale House Guesthouse in Evora. It had a large, well-equipped, shared kitchen, a bathroom we could maneuver in, and a great location.
Losses
I offered to help a middle-aged couple at a neighboring table translate the menu which was in cursive in Portuguese. The waiter had just explained it to us, but only gave them a cursory explanation.
Things got really awkward right away. I had heard them speaking in English, so thought my input would be welcome. I approached them and asked if they’d like some help with the menu, and the man replied with an extremely tentative and drawn out, “maaaaybeeee?”. Bad start.
I quickly showed them what I knew, then retreated to my table. Not long after, we overheard them fluently conversing with the waiter. As Scoobie Doo would say, “Ruh-Roh”.
On our second day exploring Evora, we passed by the Igreja de São Francisco, a very large and imposing church adjacent to the Chapel of Bones. There were many children scattered about in front of the church working on art pieces. Kids were sitting on the stairs, in the front atrium, and even across the street in the Sao Francisco square.
I asked one young girl if she spoke English (she did), and I proceeded to get the scoop. She was about twelve years old and from Israel. Turns out all the children were competing in the 20th International Youth Art Meeting, Evora 2019. The Art Meeting brings children from all over the world, ages four through twenty, to Evora every year to create art reflecting their vision of the city of Evora.
Thirteen Participating Countries
This year the competition sponsored children from Bulgaria, China, Egypt, Slovenia, India, Israel, North Macedonia, Portugal, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Turkey, and Ukraine. After the competition, the water colors, paintings, and sketches are sold to finance bringing next years crop of children to Evora to compete.
Ages Four to Twenty
I was surprised to learn that even the youngest children, as young as four year old, compete in the same category as all other ages, up to twenty year old. My Isreali friend assured me that some of the four year old artists are incredibly talented, and easily compete!
She also told me that, besides working on their piece, the artists have classes and go on tours of Evora over the course of the competition, which this year spanned October 8th to the 30th.
I was thrilled that she took the time to share with me. It shows a very special side of Evora not typically experienced by tourists like me. I treasure experiences like this when traveling.
Praca do Giraldo – Even More Artists
Early the next morning, as we walked to get breakfast, I was pleasantly surprised to see more than a dozen more young artists scattered about the picturesque Praca do Giraldo (main square), sketching in the beautiful morning light. I ordered my usual Meia de Leite and Steve his Americano, along with some tasty looking pastries, and we took a seat outside in the square.
The intensity and focus of the artists was admirable. I wish them all the best of luck in the competition, but truly feel that the experience of coming to Evora and meeting other artists from all over the world is the best reward of all.
After three nights in Lagos, we packed up our backpacks and walked 25 minutes across town, heading to the bus station. We had scoped out the bus schedule for Salema the night before, so we had our plan all set. We stopped for an early lunch (we skipped breakfast), so Steve thought it a good time to have a beer.
Steve with beer, leaving Lagos for Salema
Little did we know, until we arrived at the bus station, that our planning was flawed since this particular Saturday was a Portuguese holiday, Republic Day, which celebrates the overthrow of the Monarchy in 1910.
With an extra two hours to kill we parked ourselves at a small outdoor cafe with a great view of the bus terminal, where Steve had another beer (haha). Back at the station, I had the great pleasure of using the bus station women’s bathroom, and I would not recommend it. I’ll spare you the details, just trust me.
Once we were successfully loaded on the bus, things got a lot smoother. It was only a 40 minute drive to Salema.
The Fishing Village
Salema, Portugal
Salema is a tiny fishing village with two streets that comprise the entire town, both paralleling the wide, long white sand beach. Rick Steves (travel writer) labels Salema as his favorite beach retreat in all of Europe, and that was a good enough reason for us to give it a try.
There are about 5 nice seafood restaurants, an Italian restaurant, a tiny market with very limited hours, a morning pastry shop, and a pizza place in Salema. And that’s it.
Gorgeous sunset on the way to dinner in Salema
We went a bit over budget eating in Salema, but had some amazing seafood, and saw Jane Curtin (of Saturday Night Live fame from the 70’s) eating dinner at the table just behind us on our last night. Or at least I think it was her.
Steve was horrified that I kept taking his picture during dinner, but it was the only way I could get a picture of “Jane”. I was a bit obsessed with Jane throughout dinner, even googling her for more personal information. Her husband has a ruddy-red look and she’s 72 years young. Everything seemed to fit and it was all falling into place!
My “Jane” at the restaurant
Jane Curtin photo – you be the judge!
My bubble burst at the end of our meal, when we heard “Jane’s” husband had a very Scottish accent. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted.
Our Quarto
To offset our overspending on restaurants, we opted to stay in a Quarto, a rental room in a local’s house. Our room was teeny tiny and contained two twin beds, a side table, and good lighting. It also had an en suite bathroom, that was also very small but functional, and all ours. And all of this for $44 a night.
View just outside our Quarto entrance door
The very best thing about our Quarto was the 10 second walk to the beach! Hard to beat that. And we loved listening to the waves lulling us to sleep at night.
We had our own private entrance, access to a shared refrigerator and coffee maker, and even our own laundry lines just outside our window, where I hung my hand washing to dry in the heat of the day. We felt just like locals (well, kind of).
The entrance to our Quarto, Salema
The Beach
Praia Salema is pretty darn ideal, with powdery white sand, the turquoise blue ocean, and an uncrowded beach (at least in October). A local rents loungers with palapas (for shade) for $10 euros a day.
Praia Salema
We made the most of our rental investments each day, arriving first on the beach every morning and staying until 6 or later. We had no problem filling our entire day with reading, sunning, and some quality napping.
It was close to 80 degrees every day, with a nice breeze. When we got hot enough, we’d brave the Atlantic, which was quite brisk, but refreshing nonetheless.
Yellow Rental Lounges, 10 euros a day for two
We chose to sit at the far west edge of the lounge chairs, so we had a good view as local fishermen’s boats were dragged up onto the sand by a tractor to unload their catch. The town cats would gather by the boats and patiently wait for scraps from their haul.
Three cats sit on the sand on the right side of the picture, waiting for fish remnants
The Dolphins
Dolphin watching excursions are advertised all over town, but we were lucky enough to witness our own (free), dolphin sightings.
Early in the morning, while having breakfast on an outdoor deck just up from the ocean, we spotted about 10 dolphins swimming by.
I didn’t get a picture of the dolphins, so here are some seagulls instead
Then, later that same day, in the late afternoon, everyone on the beach had a real treat when about 15-20 dolphins swam up and down the beach putting on a show. I think I was more excited than the little kids. Dolphins were leaping high out of the water, flipping and playing. Others were jetting around at high speed, creating white water like speed boats. I even saw two jump high into the air, in unison, and gracefully dive back into the depths, like something you’d see at a dolphin show. It was magical.
Wins and Losses
Wins
The beach, the beach, the beach
The sparkling ocean
Meeting Mandy & Harold from Napa, Happy 30th!
Staying in a room that’s a 10 second walk from the beach
Losses
Steve stubbed his little toe on the sharp tile corner in the bathroom, drawing blood
Hours later, a bee elected to sting Steve in the same wounded little toe. That little toe must have done something very bad in a former life, is all I can say
The only bus out of Salema had a pick-up time of 6:45 am. The only bus. It wasn’t even light out, but we were on-board!
When I first saw the beaches in Lagos, they took my breath away. It was as if someone picked up the magnificent rock formations of Sedona, Arizona, and deposited them in south Portugal where the land meets the sea.
Then, as if the beauty of the gigantic rock formations weren’t enough, Mother Nature carved out cave-like arches and tunnels connecting one small beach to the next.
We checked the tide schedule, so we wouldn’t get stuck on one of the beaches when the tide came in. Some of the passageways were up high on the sand. Others, that close off at high tide, were close to the sea.
Fortunately, low tide was conveniently timed for noon. We started at the first beach by the marina, Praia de Batata, with our REI travel towels, kindles, and sunscreen in hand.
Each beach was its own small cove, each with a slightly different look and feel. I’d say there were five or six beaches over a mile or more.
Praia Dona Ana
We’d heard there were other gorgeous beaches down the coast, and we weren’t disappointed. Praia Dona Ana, about 15 minutes by bus, was heavenly, once I got down the 14 thousand steps (bad knees). For 10 euros we had two lounge chairs and a shade palapa for the entire day.
Praia Dona Ana
After a lovely day, it was time to head back to our Airbnb. The bus stop was at the top of the hill, high above the beach. I turned around for one last look at the coast and was treated to the striking view in the late afternoon sun.
Town
Lagos is a charming, picturesque beach town in southern Portugal. And, apparently, word has gotten out. There are lots of tourists milling about, even in the shoulder season.
Lagos, Portugal
Lagos is almost picture perfect, with its cobblestone streets that open up into intimate squares, covered in the customary black and white tile patterns. The squares are filled with bright, colorful tiled homes, fountains, flowers and trees, and the occasional talented street performer singing popular songs from home.
Our Airbnb
I was quite excited that our Lagos Airbnb had a washer. After almost two weeks we could give our clothes a “proper” wash. Unfortunately for us, there was no laundry detergent provided at the flat and we could only find large size bottles at the market, which didn’t make sense for a wash or two (and were too big to take with us to the next town). Major letdown. Well, more hand washing was definitely on the agenda.
Our flat in Lagos, number 32
Wins & Losses
Wins
After a day at Praia Dona Ana, we hopped on the bus. Unfortunately it was going the wrong direction. We did, however, get a good look at the beach further down the coast, for the win!
Ate sensational Mexican food all three nights in town, once at The Green Room, and twice at Beats & Burritos
Found a working toilet at a cafe with only 15 minutes of searching after a water main broke and left us with no water (or toilet or shower) for 12 hours on our second day in town.
Losses
Steve made it back to our Airbnb after a beach day without his high-tech, fast drying, grey compact travel towel. Down one travel towel.
Our Airbnb was super teeny-tiny, had a distinctive mildew smell, and a loud bar across the street, open until 2 am. Hooray for ear plugs.
We arrived in Sintra after a 40 minute train ride from Lisbon. Sintra is a resort town in the foothills of Portugal’s Sintra Mountains with two main draws – the Moorish Castle and the Pena Palace, both set high on nearby hilltops above town.
We stayed in a tiny, quaint hotel, the Monte Da Lua Guesthouse, directly across from the train station. We stayed two nights, giving us plenty of time to see the sites.
Look way up on the hill to see the Moorish Castle above the town of Sintra
We had our plan of attack all mapped out. We arrived in the afternoon and the sun was shining brightly and blue filled the sky. Rick Steves (travel writer) recommended visiting the Moorish Castle at sunset for a real treat. With this in mind, we decided to kill some time walking around the town, then head up to the Castle around 5:30 pm and stay through sunset.
Sintra National Palace (two pointed towers) in the distance, as we make our way into town
We set out for the town on the wide cobblestone sidewalks that wind along the road from our hotel to the town center. The hills rose up on all sides of us, full of lush, green trees. We passed manicured, colorful flowerbeds, stunning views, city hall, small restaurants, and hippie craft vendors.
Moorish Castle
As planned, we caught the bus at 5:30 pm, heading deep into the hills towards the Moorish Castle. As we entered the bus, I noticed a few clouds moving in, and I was thinking we were in for a spectacular sunset! The bus climbed higher and higher into the hills, and it got foggier and foggier. At the top, we saw the Moorish Castle entrance and everything was blanketed in thick fog. No sunset for us.
The Moorish Castle ticket-taker was a happy, friendly, good looking man in his mid-30’s, who apologized for the fog. He went on to explain that the fog moves in late in the day, every day, like clockwork. Hmmmm…Rick Steves hadn’t mentioned that.
We made the best of it, at least we had the entire Moorish Castle practically to ourselves. The fog did lend an eerie kind of medieval feel to the whole castle vibe. Standing on the high castle walls, we watched as thick fog rolled through the tree tops and over the castle walls.
Maybe a sunset was overrated after all. The misty fog was ethereal.
Pena Palace
We set our alarms that night for early the next morning to get to the Pena Palace before the tour groups from Lisbon arrived.
Unfortunately, the fog from the previous night was still in full force. As far as I could tell, the throngs of tour groups hadn’t arrived from Lisbon yet, so at least we had that in our favor.
The Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and rightly so. The Palace is a major example of the 19th century Romanticism style of architecture, with deep reds and bright yellow exteriors and a whimsical design throughout.
After a tour of the castle interior, we found a great place to sit and wait out the fog.
We nursed our water bottle, waiting……. ….waiting…. waiting….for more than an hour until the sun started to break through the heavy fog and we could see a bit of blue sky, occasional views of the glorious mountains and town below, and even the Atlantic Ocean in the distance.
The Military Ceremony
After the Pena Palace visit, we headed into town for a second time. Things seemed very different this time. Instead of craft vendors lining the streets, we saw police, and the main road into Sintra was closed.
The Military Band
As we got closer and closer to town, there were more and more police. Approaching the main square, where the National Palace resides, we could hear a band playing.
The policeman I asked told me there was a military ceremony at the square, just ahead, and the Portuguese President was there! I wiggled my way up to the front of the packed crowd of (mostly) tourists and watched for a few minutes. The band played, the military men marched and carried out commands. After a while we’d seen enough and moved on.
Military Ceremony at the National Palace, Sintra
We explored Sintra for about an hour, but needed a break from walking the steep pathways, and perhaps a snack. Typically we make a point to avoid cafe’s in a town’s main square, they are often very overpriced and low-quality. After weighing our options, we finally decided to plunk down dead center across from the square, where the ceremony was still ongoing. By now the crowds watching the ceremony had significantly dwindled to a few die-hard fans.
The President
Military Top Brass Lined up in Front of Us
Suddenly a heavy police presence was moving towards us, and all the military top-brass started lining up along along the cafe edge where we sat eating our overpriced pastel de natas, a Portuguese pastry specialty.
The President of Portugal, flanked on both sides by buff military guards, was about 8 feet away from us. I googled to verify what the President looked like, to be sure it was him. It was. Then the troops paraded down the cobblestone street in front of the President, the military big-wigs, and us, with the band playing in the background, while they all saluted each other. What a cool experience.
Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, Portugal’s President (bald middle)
Wins & Losses
Wins
I had the best shrimp crepes on earth, not rolled, but flat and layered with gooey cheese and rich cream sauce at Rick Steve’s favorite restaurant in town, Restaurante Regional de Sintra
We had sunny weather (in town, that is)
Our hotel had silky smooth, high quality bed sheets
We saw the President and he thanked us for coming to Portugal (ok, that second part didn’t happen)
Losses
We didn’t see a sunset from the Moorish Castle (we didn’t see anything from the Moorish Castle, except fog)
The best shrimp crepes on earth were served in a restaurant that was lit like a surgical room in a hospital. A little bright, one might say
We had to “shimmy” sideways to enter our tiny hotel bathroom, sometimes slightly wedging in the narrow passage between the mauve porcelain sink and the corner of a wall covered in cold tiles.
It’s been a little over a week since we left our home near Seattle, Washington. Our first 4 days, 5 nights were spent in the Mouraria neighborhood in Lisbon, Portugal, in a small one-bedroom Airbnb. Lisbon is known as the city of seven hills, so I knew we’d be climbing lots of hills, and boy, did we. It was a crash course in getting in shape.
Mouraria
And (of course) our Airbnb was at the top of a huge, steep hill in the Mouraria neighborhood. Believe me, the pictures don’t do the hill justice. Nonetheless, we loved our neighborhood. It wasn’t in the most elegant or trendy part of town, but was a very authentic, ethnically diverse neighborhood full of real Portuguese folks living life, and delicious small restaurants. We had amazing Indian dinners three times and one Chinese dinner, all in family run and very reasonably priced restaurants.
Lisbon Sights
Sao Jorge Castle up on the hilltop
In between yummy food we did squeeze in some sightseeing. Our city walks (courtesy of Rick Steves, travel writer) included a walk to the top of yet another huge, steep hill to visit the São Jorge Castle. Our ascent included not only walking, but two public elevators, about 100 meters apart, tucked into the city landscape, that made the walk from downtown up to the castle a little less tiring.
Starting our long descent down the hill, we first visited Largo Santa Luzia square to admire a panoramic view of Lisbon from a small terrace. The red tile rooftops and Tagus river were breathtaking.
View of Lisbon & Tagus River from Santa Luzia Square
Then we went across the street from the Square where we took a trip back in time, touring a mansion turned museum that reflected how the “typical” aristocratic family lived in 15th century Lisbon.
Typical Aristocrats 15th Century Home
Our walks also took us up the Elevador da Gloria, a Funicular installed in 1885 that takes (mostly) tourists up another very steep hill into the Bairro-Alto neighborhood, for more exploration.
Elevador da Gloria, Installed in 1885
Belem
Tilework at Jeronimos Monestery, Belem
With only two more days in the Lisbon area we decided to head out on a day trip to the nearby city of Belem. This excursion warranted it’s own post, so, if you’re interested, check out my post “Day Trip to Belem”.
Gulbenkian Museum
We dedicated our final day to a highly regarded museum, the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum. The museum has a vast and varied collection of art spanning 5,000 years of history, including European, Asian, Egyptian, and Islamic art. I’ve been to more than my share of European museums, and I must say this one is really special. The displays are laid out beautifully, the lighting is exquisite, and they had centuries old wool rugs that were astounding. Spending our last day in Lisbon at the Gulbenkian Museum was the icing on the cake called Lisbon.
Tiles Are Everywhere!
Modern Tile at Metro Station
Green Tiled Apartments
Turquoise Tiled Apartments
One final attribute of Lisbon that cannot be overlooked are the tiles (called azulejos). Tiles are everywhere in Portugal. They decorate everything from walls of churches and monasteries, to palaces, ordinary houses, park seats, fountains, shops, and train stations.
Tiled Sidewalks
As we made our way through the city, each street seemed to have it’s own unique black and white tile patterned sidewalk. Above are just a few examples.
Tiled Praca’s
Lisbon’s Praca’s (squares), which seemed to be around every corner, are full of their own unique black and white tiles, majestic statues, towering arches, and flowing fountains.
Wins & Losses
Wins
Learned how to say: please, thank you, and how to order coffee correctly in Portuguese.
Never twisted an ankle on the uneven tile streets
Never got on the Metro going the wrong way
Had gorgeous, sunny weather every day
Figured out how to reload (“zap”) our metro card with $ after only five tries (instructions were in Portuguese)
Loved exploring beautiful Lisbon!
Losses
We had a nice dinner at a “cash-only” restaurant, but had no cash
The bus stop outside our apartment was under construction, so we had to hoof it way down and way up an enormous, steep hill to go anywhere.
We’d just arrived in town and were starving. We ordered from a menu in Portuguese. We thought we ordered a sandwich, but it turned out to be tiny chunks of cod on a rock hard piece of toast. And it cost over 10 euros.
We made it to beautiful Lisbon, Portugal! It’s very hot for very late September, and I’m embarrassed to admit it, but I have a heat rash in both my armpits. It’s unexpected and terribly inconvenient. I packed my “healthy” deodorant that has no antiperspirant properties, which, it turns out, was a big mistake. And our future destinations only get hotter and more humid. How did this unfortunate situation occur? Let me explain…
It all started on Friday. We planned a day trip to the very popular section of outer Lisbon called Belem, about six miles to the west. In our typical fashion, we were determined to take public transit. I was especially excited because we were finally going to get to ride on one of the cute, iconic yellow trolleys seen all over Lisbon. With our trusty Rick Steves book in hand (literally), we tried to find the trolley stop for the 15E to Belem. It wasn’t easy. After a 25 minute brisk walk we parked ourselves at a trolley stop and waited, but we had virtually no confidence that we were in the right place.
After 15 minutes a policeman walked by, so I asked him where to catch the 15E to Belem. He looked at me, then turned away and motioned urgently towards a square, the Praca do Comercio, about 150 yards to the east, where the 15E was currently loading. He was pointing at a large bus, not a trolley, but we took him at his word and starting running through the crowded sidewalks and across the wide street, dodging cars, tuk-tuk’s, and people, while digging out our passes. And yes, it was the 15E we were looking for.
This is where we were supposed to catch the 15E. How could we have missed this tiny, discrete location?
We’d heard the 15E can get very crowded, and our information was correct. Trying to catch my breath as I approached the bus, I showed my pass to the attendant and he waved me inside. The problem was there was nowhere to go. A solid wall of humans filled the open doors. Behind me there were still more people with every intention of getting on that bus too, so I took that first step and squeezed in. Steve was smashing in right behind me. I was so squished that bodies were touching up against me from my shoulders down to my ankles, on all sides. I felt like a tightly wrapped burrito. I was suspended in a sea of humanity, with no bar, seat, or strap to hang on to. The pressure of bodies kept me from falling as the bus started on its way, but that was short-lived. Even my feet were pinned together, so I couldn’t gain my balance.
The Real Bea Arthur
As the bus abruptly stopped and started, I repeatedly stepped on the woman directly behind me, who looked like Bea Arthur (“Maude”, of 70’s sitcom fame). Of course it wasn’t Bea Arthur, but she was tall with large feet and gray hair and had the look of Bea Arthur. I’m sure I also nailed Bea’s husband a few times, who was behind me to the right. Sorry Bea. Sorry Bea’s husband.
I already had a good start on overheating from our dash to the bus, but now I was quickly absorbing heat from all sides. Turns out the buses are supposed to be air conditioned, but this one wasn’t. It was close to 80 degrees outside and I was packed in a sweltering bus with a hundred of my now closest friends, with no windows, no air movement, and trying desperately to stay upright. It was a long ride to Belem. I won’t go into further detail about the rash, but suffice to say there was lots of wetness involved and it wasn’t pretty.
Monastery of Jeronimos, Belem
If you do make it to Belem, one way or another, make sure to visit the Monastery of Jeronimos. It’s a giant, white limestone structure full of detailed, Gothic architecture. We found it breathtaking and very impressive. Entrance to the church is free. Entrance to the Monastery is 10 euros and it’s worth it.
The Tagus River
After visiting the Monastery, we took a walk along the waterfront by the Marina, heading west paralleling the Tagus River. There’s an underground tunnel to get across the fast moving highway between the Park and the waterfront, almost directly across from the gigantic Monument to the Discoveries.
Tower of Saint Vincent
Once on the Marina side, it’s about a 10 minute walk to the Tower of Saint Vincent. The Tower served both as a fortress and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The Tower rises majestically out of the river and looks like a movie set. The tower was the last thing many explorers saw as they left Portugal on their journey to the new world.
Steve relaxing at lunch in Belem
Next, we took a foot bridge by the tower back over the highway. We headed a couple of blocks into town where we found a restaurant with shady outdoor seating that was far less touristy than back by the Monastery.
Here are my tips for a day trip to Belem:
Not the Trolley to Belem
Catch the 15E at the first stop, Praça da Figueira, not the second stop, Praça do Comércio. With luck, you’ll get a seat on the bus and have some breathing room.
Be advised that the 15E trolley that supposedly goes to Belem is actually not a trolley at all, but a mammoth, double-long, modern electric bus that has advertising all over the windows so you cannot see inside. It looks like something from a futuristic sci-fi movie, not at all like the cute yellow trolley we were looking for that travel all over Lisbon.
Turns out you can also catch the “normal” bus #728 to and from Belem, so there’s no need to even deal with the giant futuristic electric bus, unless you’re into that sort of thing.
Bring lots of water and maybe a fan.
Wear a good antiperspirant or maybe go in December. And good luck.
Update:
I have great news to report, in case you are concerned about me. My “issue” is getting much better and it’s only been 24 hours. I think I’m ready to head to Sintra, our next destination!
Woooo Hoooo! We made it to our 30th anniversary! Let’s take a 21 day trip to Italy! Three weeks of eating and visiting museums!
This being our first trip to Europe in 30 years, we learned a lot, including how easy it is to get off at the wrong train station. That being said, we must have been doing something right because on our first day in Venice, a tourist asked us for directions at the water taxi. I guess we looked like we knew what we were doing.
While in southern Italy, we braved the winding, cliff-side bus down the Amalfi Coast. It’s impossible to do justice to the breathtaking beauty where the sea, sky, and colorful homes clinging to steep hillsides come together. We were so impressed that we ditched our previous plans and did it all again the very next day.
While in Venice, on an especially early morning water taxi ride, we were surprised to find we were on the “school bus”. We scrunched to the back of the water taxi as school children piled on board, carrying their book bags and buzzing with middle school energy. What fun to have a school bus that’s a boat on a Venetian canal!
Enormous Penises from Pompeii
Our last day in Italy we visited the National Archeological Museum in Naples. We came upon a door marked the “Secret Cabinet” (Gabinetto Segreto). Turns out years ago researchers unearthed a huge collection of erotic art in the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The collection featured thousands of phallus-shaped pendants, wind chimes, and candlesticks, among other items. In other words, we were suddenly surrounded by penises. They were everywhere, large and small, ornate and decorative. Wow, just wow.
2016: Spain
Flamenco Dancer & Guitarist
To me, tapas, cobblestone streets glistening after a light rain, and grand palaces are the best parts of Spain. In 2016 we visited Barcelona, Seville, Cordoba, Toledo, Granada, and Madrid.
Manolo, our Airbnb host, was a bundle of energy and enthusiasm, especially when talking about his city, Seville. When we arrived Manolo was quick to offer us some homemade Sangria. We were a little taken aback, as it was about 10:30 in the morning, but what the hell, how could we say no?
I had no interest whatsoever in seeing Flamenco dancing, but Manolo insisted that we go. Thank God he did. The energy of the Flamenco dancer’s heals pounding on the stage and the drama of the performance was incredible. All I can say is go see Flamenco, but make sure to talk to Manolo so you go to an authentic performance in his beloved city of Seville.
2017: Czech Republic, Austria & Hungary
Czech Republic
Prague
The Charles Bridge, Prague
Prague was having a rare spring cold-snap on the day we arrived. Even with light snow and frigid wind, it was easy to admire beautiful Prague. Tourists were out in force, especially in the Old Town Square. Everywhere we went we encountered clusters of hundreds of tourists wearing identical knit beanies with the word “PRAGUE” in huge block letters. It was like a sea of “PRAGUE” beanies everywhere you looked. There was no question in our minds where we were, in case we should somehow forget.
Full disclosure: I joked about how silly those tourists looked in their identical beanies, but I quickly came to regret that I had not purchased my own “PRAGUE” beanie. The wind was biting cold and perhaps I could have blended in better, who knows?
Generally speaking Prague’s food is nothing special, with one notable exception: the Knedlíky. Made of flour and water, rolled into a loaf, boiled, and sliced. It’s like a thick & doughy slice of dumpling heaven, with gravy on top. My mouth is watering.
Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov
Even though the sun wasn’t out, Český Krumlov, a small town in the southern Bohemian countryside, was straight out of a fairy tale. As we made our way into town, the parked cars still had a dusting of snow on them from the previous night. The long stroll up hill to the Český Krumlov Castle was the highlight of our stay. The views from the Castle of the red tiled roofs, lush hillsides, blossoming trees, and meandering Vltava river far below us were magnificent.
Austria
Vienna
What most surprised me about Vienna was its beautiful parks. Stadtpark, an large park near our Airbnb, was chocked full of of tulips, sprawling lawns, and winding pathways lined with park benches. How nice to have such a peaceful retreat in the middle of a busy city.
I’ve never been to the Opera, so watching Das Rheingold in the cheap seats was incredible. We watched live on the “big screen” in our jeans and jackets, sitting on the concrete patio just outside the Vienna Opera House while the patrons in minks and jewels watched inside in cushy chairs. The dynamic voices, the colors and costumes, and the pageantry was amazing – and the price was right.
Hungary
Budapest
Széchenyi Chain Bridge View From Our Room
There seems to be a slight rivalry between Buda and Pest. I loved both. Budapest sparkles.
Our Airbnb had a sweeping view of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge over the Danube. The sunsets were spectacular.
One afternoon we were temporarily blocked from walking across the bridge to the Buda side of town due to a movie car chase scene in progress. It was very cool to watch the film crew position cars, people, and props and yell “Action”!
Széchenyi Medicinal Baths
Széchenyi Medicinal Baths
The Széchenyi Medicinal Baths are a definite must-do. Enormous pools sprawl throughout an extensive compound. As you enter the large pool, warm water envelopes you. If you want it even warmer, there’s a another pool for that. If you’re feeling too relaxed you can join the crowded swirling pool. It’s a circular pool with a strong, swirling current that carries you in giant circles! It was like being in a giant toilet bowl with 50 of your closest friends.
2018: Morocco
Camels to the Desert Camp
Our most recent adventure took us to Morocco for a fabulous 24 days. We traversed two mountain ranges, visited big cities, small villages, and rode camels to a luxury desert camp to spend the night. Fair warning, riding a camel is hard. It’s hard on your bottom, and it’s hard going up and down steep sand dunes. Our ride out to camp was an hour and a half. That being said, I’d do it again in a heartbeat, but I’d ask for a closer camp.
Medinas
At any time, day or night, the Medina (old city) is bustling with locals, tourists, and shop activity. We got lost in the narrow, winding pathways of the ancient Medinas of Fez, Tetouan, and Marrakesh. I’m not sure why every guide book suggests you get lost in the Medina, it’s not like you have any choice in the matter. The Medina is a gigantic maze, complete with dead ends. Blocked by the high stone walls, the sunlight barely trickles in and it’s impossible to get your bearings. And google maps doesn’t work in the Medina. There’s no rhyme or reason to the layout, and we encountered surprises at every turn. Besides the disorientation of being lost most of the time, it was important that we kept our wits about us, so as not to get run over by a donkey cart or fast moving bicycle.
The Diversity of Morocco
I was wowed by the sites and sounds of the old city, but the diversity of Moroccan landscapes had their own allure. I had pictured Morocco as a country primarily made up of flat, dusty deserts, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. Morocco quickly revealed its lush green meadows and hillsides, dotted with large fields of red poppies and yellow daisies. We passed majestic, snow-covered mountains, gorgeous white sand beaches, deep ravines, enormous rock formations, sweeping landscapes of deep ruddy-red gravel, and vast, serene sand dunes accentuated by the shadows of the setting sun.
Morocco was, by far, the most culturally different country that I have visited to date. Morocco is spectacular and the people are so kind and welcoming that I know I’ll be back.
Way back in 1985 my new husband and I honeymooned in France & Belgium. A travel agent alerted us to a flight deal. If we bought one ticket to Europe and a Polaroid Instant Camera, we’d get our second flight free! Well, being newlyweds on a tight budget, that decided it. We chose France. It was February, so it was very cold. We bundled up and tackled all the top tourist draws in Paris. We ate amazing food including lots of sizzling snails in garlic butter and good wine.
The second week we drove through the Loire Valley, visiting castles that we had almost completely to ourselves. Try beating the romance of driving up over a hill with a snow covered castle coming into view.
Finishing up our trip, we had one afternoon in Brussels. It was an easy decision to spend our short time in the Grand Place, the centuries old square where we were surrounded by opulent buildings glittering in gold. Unfortunately, my most vivid memory of the Grand Place was my husband desperately trying not to vomit as I popped in to cute lace shops. I was on the hunt for something special to take home as a souvenir. He waited outside of each store, patiently taking deep breaths of the cold air until he just couldn’t take it any more. Thankfully we made it to the room just in time. It was a long and a memorable last night of our honeymoon.
Mexico
San Miguel de Allende & Guanajuato
San Miguel de Allende with Mom, 2004
My mom and I took a trip in 2004 to artsy San Miguel de Allende. After San Miguel we white-knuckled it in a taxi speeding through the winding underground tunnels, the only way to reach our second destination of Guanajuato. We couldn’t have picked two more beautiful cities for our mother-daughter trip. Being in the interior of Mexico, north of Guadalajara for the fist time brought a much more authentic Mexico into focus than either of us had ever known. And we loved it.
Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta is one of my favorite cities in Mexico. I’ve been there over ten times, and I’m sure I’ll return. The landmark Catholic church sits at the center of town topped by its intricate ironwork crown. Colorful triangle flags drape above the cobblestone streets flapping in the constant breeze. The cute shops, outdoor fish grills, seaside walkway and local life are enchanting.
Cozumel & Playa del Carmen
Mopeding Cozumel with the Hubby, 1986
In 1986 I took my first moped ride with my husband around the island of Cozumel, a small island off the east coast of Mexico. At about the half way point it started raining so hard that the drops stung as they hit our skin and we could hardly see. We tried to take refuge in a large, elegant hotel lobby, the only building for miles, but I guess two under-dressed tourists in t-shirts, dripping in the fancy lobby were not welcome, and we were asked to move along.
The day after the moped debacle, we took a ferry across to the mainland, to a small fishing village called Playa del Carmen. There wasn’t a single hotel along the pristine, white beach. The only tourist accommodations were beach hammocks available for $8 a night. Fishing boats were bringing in their catch and local children played along the beach. Twenty years later I returned to Playa del Carmen and found it had exploded with development and tourism. The city is still worth visiting, with its beautiful beaches and Mexican charm, but it’s definitely grown up from the small fishing village we knew.
Merida
Mérida, the vibrant capital of the Yucatan Peninsula, is a stately colonial city well worth exploring. Before we arrived I made certain there would be a pool at our tiny budget hotel to ease the stifling heat, since we were visiting in July. To my horror, we arrived to find the pool drained and under construction. Every day for a week I checked with the front desk and was reassured the pool would be ready “mañana” (tomorrow), but it never was. Somehow we survived, but the view of that empty pool still haunts me.
Mayan Ruins of Coba
Coba Ruins, 2005
Bicycling the wide, dirt pathways through the Mayan ruins of Coba in the Yucatan jungle was an amazing experience. We cycled from building to building, spread out over many acres, until arriving at the giant pyramid. Climbing the steep, almost vertical, crumbling stairs of the pyramid with only a small guide rope was harrowing, especially with young kids.
After reaching the top we sat and relaxed, enjoying the birds-eye view of treetops and jungle as far as we could see, trying to not think too much about the impending trip back down to solid ground.
Cruising
Cruising from Seattle to Alaska, 2006
I’ve cruised to Hawaii, Alaska, the Caribbean Islands, Haiti & Belize, Mexico multiple times, and up the east coast of the United States to Nova Scotia.
Every cruise had its own highlight, but one of my favorites was when we helicoptered to an glacier in Alaska. I’ll never forget the crunch of my boots on the hard glacier surface as I made my way to one of the many one and two foot wide crevices around us. I stood at the crevice edge, peering down into the narrow opening that was so deep it looked like it went on forever. The electric blue glowing from the crevice ice got darker and more intense as the crevice deepened. It was unreal. What an amazing site to behold.
