Day Trip to Belem

Posted September 29, 2019

We made it to beautiful Lisbon, Portugal!  It’s very hot for very late September, and I’m embarrassed to admit it, but I have a heat rash in both my armpits.  It’s unexpected and terribly inconvenient. I packed my “healthy” deodorant that has no antiperspirant properties, which, it turns out, was a big mistake.  And our future destinations only get hotter and more humid. How did this unfortunate situation occur? Let me explain…

It all started on Friday. We planned a day trip to the very popular section of outer Lisbon called Belem, about six miles to the west.  In our typical fashion, we were determined to take public transit. I was especially excited because we were finally going to get to ride on one of the cute, iconic yellow trolleys seen all over Lisbon. With our trusty Rick Steves book in hand (literally), we tried to find the trolley stop for the 15E to Belem.  It wasn’t easy. After a 25 minute brisk walk we parked ourselves at a trolley stop and waited, but we had virtually no confidence that we were in the right place. 

After 15 minutes a policeman walked by, so I asked him where to catch the 15E to Belem. He looked at me, then turned away and motioned urgently towards a square, the Praca do Comercio, about 150 yards to the east, where the 15E was currently loading. He was pointing at a large bus, not a trolley, but we took him at his word and starting running through the crowded sidewalks and across the wide street, dodging cars, tuk-tuk’s, and people, while digging out our passes. And yes, it was the 15E we were looking for.

We’d heard the 15E can get very crowded, and our information was correct. Trying to catch my breath as I approached the bus, I showed my pass to the attendant and he waved me inside.  The problem was there was nowhere to go. A solid wall of humans filled the open doors. Behind me there were still more people with every intention of getting on that bus too, so I took that first step and squeezed in.  Steve was smashing in right behind me. I was so squished that bodies were touching up against me from my shoulders down to my ankles, on all sides. I felt like a tightly wrapped burrito. I was suspended in a sea of humanity, with no bar, seat, or strap to hang on to.  The pressure of bodies kept me from falling as the bus started on its way, but that was short-lived. Even my feet were pinned together, so I couldn’t gain my balance.

As the bus abruptly stopped and started, I repeatedly stepped on the woman directly behind me, who looked like Bea Arthur (“Maude”, of 70’s sitcom fame).  Of course it wasn’t Bea Arthur, but she was tall with large feet and gray hair and had the look of Bea Arthur. I’m sure I also nailed Bea’s husband a few times, who was behind me to the right.   Sorry Bea. Sorry Bea’s husband.

I already had a good start on overheating from our dash to the bus, but now I was quickly absorbing heat from all sides.  Turns out the buses are supposed to be air conditioned, but this one wasn’t. It was close to 80 degrees outside and I was packed in a sweltering bus with a hundred of my now closest friends, with no windows, no air movement, and trying desperately to stay upright.  It was a long ride to Belem. I won’t go into further detail about the rash, but suffice to say there was lots of wetness involved and it wasn’t pretty. 

If you do make it to Belem, one way or another, make sure to visit the Monastery of Jeronimos. It’s a giant, white limestone structure full of detailed, Gothic architecture.  We found it breathtaking and very impressive. Entrance to the church is free. Entrance to the Monastery is 10 euros and it’s worth it. 

After visiting the Monastery, we took a walk along the waterfront by the Marina, heading west paralleling the Tagus River.   There’s an underground tunnel to get across the fast moving highway between the Park and the waterfront, almost directly across from the gigantic Monument to the Discoveries.  

Once on the Marina side, it’s about a 10 minute walk to the Tower of Saint Vincent. The Tower served both as a fortress and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The Tower rises majestically out of the river and looks like a movie set. The tower was the last thing many explorers saw as they left Portugal on their journey to the new world. 

Next, we took a foot bridge by the tower back over the highway. We headed a couple of blocks into town where we found a restaurant with shady outdoor seating that was far less touristy than back by the Monastery.

Here are my tips for a day trip to Belem:

• Catch the 15E at the first stop, Praça da Figueira, not the second stop, Praça do Comércio. With luck, you’ll get a seat on the bus and have some breathing room.
• Be advised that the 15E trolley that supposedly goes to Belem is actually not a trolley at all,  but a mammoth, double-long, modern electric bus that has advertising all over the windows so you cannot see inside.  It looks like something from a futuristic sci-fi movie, not at all like the cute yellow trolley we were looking for that travel all over Lisbon.
• Turns out you can also catch the “normal” bus #728 to and from Belem, so there’s no need to even deal with the giant futuristic electric bus, unless you’re into that sort of thing.
• Bring lots of water and maybe a fan.
• Wear a good antiperspirant or maybe go in December.  And good luck.
  

Update:

I have great news to report, in case you are concerned about me.  My “issue” is getting much better and it’s only been 24 hours. I think I’m ready to head to Sintra, our next destination!