Selcuk, Turkiye

September 14-19, 2022

Wing and a Prayer

We arrived in Selcuk from Bergama on a wing and a prayer.  But we were not trusting in divine intervention, rather we were putting all our faith in the Turkish taxi driver.  

Our hotelier called the taxi service. After our taxi arrived and we loaded in, the hotelier explained to the taxi driver where we wanted to go, but the taxi driver seemed to have his own idea of what was best.  After a somewhat intense exchange in Turkish, the taxi driver prevailed.  

Cross Your Fingers

The hotelier looked at us, already sitting in the back seat of the taxi with our backpacks secured in the trunk and said, “He knows where to go”. 

Ok, then.  Let’s do this!

No Buses For You

A few days before, we had checked the bus service online ourselves, only to find that there were NO buses (apparently) from Bergama, where we had spent the past four nights, to Selcuk, our intended destination.  So, we decided if we could just get to Izmir, the second largest city in Turkey (just behind Istanbul), we should be ok.  After all, Izmir is about halfway to Selcuk and has an enormous bus station.  

It seemed like a good plan, but the bus website once again disappointed us with the news that there are NO buses from Izmir to Selcuk.  How can that be?

No Problem (He Says)

With our frustrations mounting, we checked with the hotel owner, and he assured us there was no problem getting to Izmir.  He said there are buses from Bergama to Izmir every 40 minutes.  We weren’t sure why the bus website didn’t have this information too. 

And so it began, the “travel by trust” approach was set in motion.  

Ultimately there was either divine intervention involved or some very good luck.  Our taxi driver zipped us to a part of Bergama we hadn’t been to (which was a little worrisome….where are we going???).  

Need Some Help?

After a quick ten minute drive, he dropped us in front of a bustling tiny bus station outpost storefront.  I waited out front while Steve went in.  A nice Turkish guy in his 20’s followed Steve in because he could tell we likely needed help (gotta love it – the Turkish people are so very kind).  

We’re All Set

Steve was already at the counter and said “Izmir for two”.  That’s all that was needed and he promptly emerged back outside with our tickets.  Steve had it handled without any trouble at all.

The Dolmus

Steve pointed to the Mercedes van that held up to 15 passengers parked right in front of us at the curb. These shared vans are called Dolmus (mini-bus) and are very common in Turkey.

The Dolmus van collects passengers going to the same destination, and when the driver feels the van is full enough, they set-off.  

Steve pointed at the van, “That’s our van and it leaves in 15 minutes”.  We couldn’t have timed it better. 

Welcome to Izmir

A couple of hours later we pulled into the huge Izmir bus station, disembarked, and had lunch at an outdoor cafe. I felt confident in my lunch order, but to my great alarm Steve realized I had ordered liver (after we checked my Turkish food notes on my phone).

Rushing up to the waiter to make a quick change, I only hoped that he understood what I was saying (he spoke virtually no English).  Once again, our luck stayed true and I didn’t end up with liver for my lunch.  Thank Allah.

Selcuk Bound

Our next bus, to our final destination of Selcuk, was also a Dolmus. We had hoped for a regular size bus, like we had ridden from Edremit to Bergama the week before.  The buses in Turkey are almost like flying on a first class flight.

The Big Bus

The seats on the big bus are spacious and comfy with individual screens (but all in Turkish). There’s a bus attendant (like a flight attendant) that serves snacks and drinks as you cruise to your destination. The snacks aren’t too deluxe, but you can choose what you want from a large tray of snacks, so I’d say they are better than the usual plane fare of peanuts or pretzels. 

Alas, we were on another Dolmus, with no treats or perks, but we were happy just to be aboard and on our way. 

Sitting in the Dolmus heading to Selcuk, it finally dawned on us that the Dolmus’s don’t really adhere to a firm schedule, so don’t show up on the bus websites. No wonder we had so many difficulties trying to plan the next leg of our journey. Mystery solved. 

Şirince

At our host’s suggestion, we hopped aboard a Dolmus heading to Şirince early on our first morning in Selcuk.  Şirince is up in the hills about a 15 minute drive from Selcuk. 

Historically speaking, it had once been a thriving Greek enclave. I had the impression it was going to be like Solvang, an “authentic” Danish town in southern California that is a bit too cutsie and extremely touristy.

It’s Hot In Here

We were sitting in the Dolmus in the large Selcuk parking lot, waiting for the van to fill up with riders. It was mid-morning, but already in the 80’s and growing warmer by the minute.

We were starting to sweat, being in the far back of the stifling van, when a young woman started chatting with us. I didn’t get her name, so I’ll call her Aiyla, the number one Turkish baby-girl name on the internet.

Aiyla seemed perfectly comfortable (i.e. not sweaty), even though she was wearing black yoga pants and a clingy, long-sleeve black top. I, on the other hand, was wearing the most minimal and lightweight clothing I felt was acceptable for a 61 year old foreigner. 

Ankara University 

Aiyla was a university student in Ankara (the capital of Turkey), studying how to teach English to foreigners.

We were the first Americans she had ever met. 

America

Her first question, out of the gate, was, “How do you like America?” Hmmm…that’s kind of a big, open-ended question, and not one I’d ever had to answer. 

The first thing that pops into my head is politics, but I know I shouldn’t go there.  After stumbling around a bit (what to say…what to say?), I finally said, “Well, I like it a lot, in general.”  Way to commit.  

Knowing that was a lame answer, my mind jumps to what I feel is the most pressing issue in my world (yes, it’s politics), but I still tried to keep things general. I say,  “There’s a lot of problems in our country and the people are very divided.”

Her reply was spot on. “Yes, just like in my country.  Things are bubbling and boiling”.  Perfect.  So if I’m asked again I’ll have my reply ready, courtesy of the woman from Ankara.  

Yes indeed, things in America are bubbling and boiling. Thank you, Aiyla.

A Day in Şirince

We spent a lovely day in Şirince, climbing the steep stone walkways lined by stores selling souvenirs, local wine, more souvenirs, and more local wine.  It was quite a touristy town, and deservedly so.  It was charming and picturesque.  It was better than Solvang, in my book.

Manti Heaven

We ate lunch at a wonderful, family owned restaurant at the very top of the hill with a stunning view of the town and mountains beyond (that was recommended by our host). 

I had Turkish Manti and it was marvelous.  Manti is made of very tiny, doughy, ravioli-like pasta, with chili oil sauce, garlic, and topped with yogurt.  I wasn’t sure about having yogurt on top of my dish, but it tasted like the richest, thickest sour cream ever and won my heart (and endorsement).

I was in foodie heaven.  

Avoid the Crowds

We’d intentionally gone to Şirince on a weekday, as our host says the weekend is absolutely packed with tourists.

We also avoided Ephesus on the weekend for the same reason, although cruise ship tour groups come in droves on any day of the week.  

Ephesus

Ephesus is why all tourists, and Turkish people alike, come to the Anatolian area.  It’s one of Turkey’s biggest hitters, one of its best-preserved archaeological sites, and one of its most important historic sites.

Way Back

The beginnings of the city date back to the 11th century B.C.  Ephesus survived multiple attacks and changed hands many times between conquerors. The Greeks, the Romans, the Persians and the Byzantines all had their time controlling the city and contributed to its creation. 

It’s a Big Place

Ephesus was a thriving metropolis with a library, multiple squares, stores, temples, beautiful sculptures, public baths, dwellings, a 24,000 seat amphitheater, and more.

The amount of solid marble in every column and stair is mind-boggling. The sheer magnitude of the city, the architecture, and the gleam of the stone pathways weaving their way through the city are simply breathtaking. 

Name-Dropping

Imagine Julius Caesar, Cleopatra and Mark Antony, Alexander the Great, Apostle Paul, St. John the Evangelist, and Emperor Augustus walking the very paths we were on.  Wowza.

The Terrace Houses

As a part of our Ephesus adventure, we elected to tour The Terrace Houses too, homes of the rich and famous. These upscale homes of the day were built into the side of the hill and served the elite of the city. Each home was expansive, from 1,000 up to 6,000 square feet in size. 

Frescoes

Many of the rooms had hand-painted frescoes that were still visible on the walls of these luxury homes.

But what I found most impressive were the mosaic floor coverings. Each room appeared to have its own large rug in its own pattern and colors. 

Religion Too

Throughout history, Ephesus was also a hub of early Christian evangelism and remains an important Christian pilgrimage destination. Mary, the mother of Jesus, is thought to have spent her last years in Ephesus with Saint John. 

The Almond Cookie Incident 

We took a well-deserved break from walking in the blazing sun through the streets of Ephesus. We sat on some rocks in a tiny spot of shade just to one side of The Library of Celsus (the main event).  Unfortunately the only shade to be had was in a designated smoking area. 

We had purchased water and a tiny tin of thumb-sized almond cookies. The sitting area was small, and there was another tourist, a 30-something man, sitting right there with us. So, to be hospitable, I offered the chap a cookie. 

Mr. Healthy

He declined, saying “No thanks, I don’t eat sugar,” in what I felt was a somewhat judgmental tone, while taking a huge drag off his cigarette. His loss. Glad to see he’s so health conscious.

The Old Quarter

The old quarter of Selçuk retains much of its traditional Turkish culture. That includes lots of smokers smoking. Maybe they also avoid sugar, I don’t know. 

Selcuk is definitely a step-up in it’s ability to host tourists in comparison to Bergama (which had it’s own charm). The old quarter is set up for people who are ready to spend money in the many shops and restaurants. That being said, the food costs were quite low.

The town and people are just lovely and welcoming. It’s very walkable, as long as you’re watching out for slippery rocks or the occasional missing part of the sidewalk. 

Hookah Bars and More

There are beautiful green spaces, parks, and lovely black and white tiles woven into patterns on the wide walkways in town. Near our hotel are well tended ivy-arched walkways, about six of them, lined with shops, hookah bars, beautiful mosques with their minarets, and small, family-run restaurants. 

What a Bargain

The food costs are low. Our average lunch for two costs around $5 and our average dinner is $8-10. It helps our pocketbook that it’s unusual to find alcohol here (99% Muslim country), so for most meals we’re drinking sparkling water, which is just fine with me. 

Steve does miss having a beer, especially in this heat (90’s), so has splurged a few times when beer is on the menu. 😂

The Tractors of Selcuk

Selcuk’s a farming town full of farmers and their tractors. Walking through the neighborhoods we see tractors parked everywhere. 

The farmers own orchards full of olive and orange trees, pomegranates and more outside of town, but they all live in the town. 

The Work Day

Because it’s so hot during summer, which lasts through October, the farmers start their day very early, as early as 4 AM. Their day then ends before the real heat of the afternoon, usually by noon.  When their day is done their drink of choice is cay (Turkish tea).  

Mens Cafes

So there they sit, all the farmers and farm workers, from noon into the late evening, taking up every chair at the “Mens Cafes”.  The men socialize for hours and hours.

Tiles Anyone?

As the men enjoy themselves, drinking their tea and chain smoking, their primary game of choice is a game using tiles. These large tiles, maybe 3” square, are analogous to our playing cards. 

They use a long wooden tray, like the one used in Scrabble, but much larger, to hold their tiles. The trays about a foot long and keeps their tiles easily visible, but private. No cramped hands from holding a bunch of cards. Ingenious.

No Women Allowed (Basically)

But wait just a minute. What about the women, I asked our host? When do they get social time? He said women are not banned from these cafes, but it’s customary that only men participate. 

Labor Intensive

I pictured the women at home all day and late into the evening, tending children, cooking, cleaning, and doing laundry. Geez, that sucks. Patriarchy at its finest. 

But our host assured me, with a little laugh, that the women tend to kick the men out of the house so they can hang out with their girlfriends all day. He said they have elaborate tea parties and gossip, eat cakes, and have a great time.

That sounds a little unrealistic to me.  I can’t imagine the women are partying the day away. Someone’s still doing all the household chores and tending the kids, and I doubt it’s the men. Just saying.

Around Town

While the women may be tucked away at home (hopefully enjoying themselves as much as their counterparts are), we enjoyed visiting several other historical sites around town. 

Ayasuluk Hill

The town is dominated by Ayasuluk Hill, which is itself a part of Ephesus UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s a Mosque dating back to 1375, Isa Bey, and St. John’s Basilica (church), with its beautiful views of the town and interesting ruins. 

Then there’s the Grand Fortress (castle) that sits atop the hill. We had an incredible view of the castle from our hotel room. Day and night it was an amazing site. 

I never get used to looking up and seeing a real castle atop a hill. Surreal.

WINS

Baklava

The Strays

I’ve mentioned the strays in my previous post, but just want to reiterate how heartwarming it is to see how the Turkish care for these animals. 

All stray dogs are captured, vaccinated, neutered/spayed by the municipality, and marked with an ear tag.

If a dog is reported as mean, it is taken off the street and they try to find someone to adopt it. If they cannot, it is euthanized. 

Every stray dog and cat we saw (and there are a ton), looked healthy and fairly well fed. We saw feeding “centers” around town and water out on street corners. 

And 95% of the dogs and cats seemed very sweet and friendly. Most of the cats beg from afar (at least a few feet away), and the dogs never beg (which is strange). 

LOSSES

The Turkish seem to only use the bottom sheet and a lightweight, rough coverlet as bedding, at least in the mid level budget accommodations we inhabit. They did have a gorgeous, heavy, locally made wool blanket though, in case we got chilly in the night. 

Terrible internet in Selcuk. Very tough time putting together a blog, editing photos, downloading anything, etc.  Enough said.

Next Stop: Samos, in the Greek Isles