Month: October 2023

October 10 – 17, 2023

Beautiful Dubrovnik

I’m sure most blogs about Old Town Dubrovnik start out talking about the awe-inspiring views and the historic, beautiful all-stone city.  But I’m going to start out by talking about garbage.

Garbage? What Garbage?

Here in Old Town Dubrovnik there’s a bit of a Disneyland feel. Everything is sparkling clean. Not a drop of garbage anywhere. Every paver looks shiny, like it was just mopped. There’s not a speck of anything on the ground, anywhere.

And, as it turns out, the whole garbage process is kept well hidden, away from tourist eyes. There’s no room for garbage in this magical land. Large, green, plastic garbage cans with wheels just don’t fit the ancient Old Town vibe. 

Early Morning 

Twice now we’ve been out in Old Town in the very early morning and witnessed the Dubrovnik garbage collection scene. 

It’s quick, efficient, and, dare I say, clean. The residents keep the garbage cans well hidden by day. As best we can tell, garbage cans are sequestered indoors. Then, sometime between midnight and dawn they are discreetly put to the curb.

Men In Orange

The garbage collectors are dressed smartly in bright orange. The garbage truck is quick to get any semblance of garbage handled well before the throngs of tourists appear for the day. And as soon as the cans are emptied, the green bins are quickly tucked away out of sight. 

It was like a well choreographed dance. Impressive to say the least.

Getting to Old Town

The bus from Kotor, Montenegro, north to Dubrovnik, Croatia, took us through some beautiful country.

After several hours we arrived at the Dubrovnik bus terminal and took a cab to Old Town.  The cab pulled over just outside one of the main gates to the Old City, the Pile Gate, which is not pronounced PILE. 

Pile Gate

To my horror, it’s pronounced Pee-leh (said the taxi driver who corrected me).  I’m sure he’s heard Pile Gate mispronounced a million times by foreigners like me. Thankfully he knew what I meant.  

Anyway, we arrived, got out, grabbed our bags, and quickly stood to the side of the road, in full sun. 

It was hot and everywhere we looked there were masses of people, tour buses, cars, taxis, and more people.  It was a bit overwhelming.

Prime-Time Dubrovnik

It was two in the afternoon, which, as it turns out, is prime-time for the hoards from the cruise ships, as well as the masses of tour groups, that fill the streets of Old Town. 

We took a deep breath and entered the city walls, on a mission to find our apartment.  

Following google maps, we headed down a long, straight corridor, only about eight feet wide.  The alley was lined with little shops and restaurants.  Stone was everywhere. 

The walkway is made of ancient stone pavers and the buildings are all ancient stone too.  Almost every door we passed had a half window attached, like the letter “P”. Not that we were noticing any of this at the time.  Our complete focus was on maneuvering, ducking, dodging, and make forward progress.

Waves of Humanity

Diving into the alley was like entering a sea of people.  Some were flowing along, some were bobbing about, and others were swirling.  But the real problem were the people who were completely stopped.  

Every 20 feet or so, a group of thirty people, all with matching listening device lanyards, would be stopped in a clump, clogging up the entire alley. They’d be intently listening (through their wireless device) to their tour guide as she pointed here and there. 

I’m typically not an aggressive walker, but I did use an elbow or two to part the seas, so to speak. It was that or be continually delayed. 

There were strollers, rogue toddlers, and people looking in store windows (not looking where they were going).  There were people chatting, babies crying, teens laughing, kids screaming, and smokers smoking.  

And there we were, hot, tired, sweaty, and in unknown territory, wheeling our carry-on luggage through it all.  It was insanity.

It’s Timing

We were certainly a bit apprehensive about the Old Town after our first unpleasant encounter. But we decided it best to not stay holed up in our apartment watching Netflix for a week.  Instead, we mustered the will to leave our humble abode.

We’re so glad we did.  

Dubrovnik really is the magical and breathtaking destination we had heard about and hoped for, just not in the mid-afternoon. It’s magical and breathtaking in the morning before 10 am, and again after 3 or 4 pm. I’ll call these the safe times.  

The safe times are when things are calmer, quieter, and cooler. Most, if not all, of the tour groups and daytime excursions from cruises have not appeared yet, or have gone back from whence they came.

We had a full seven days in Dubrovnik, so we were able to leisurely schedule our days and take advantage of all the Old Town and surrounding areas had to offer.  

We even got used to the mid-day masses, either grinned and beared it, or found a quiet museum to duck into.  

After leaving Dubrovnik we talked to a taxi driver (in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia) who told us October is the best time to visit Dubrovnik. He said in the summer it’s wall to wall people, so much so that you can’t even walk!  So maybe we didn’t have it so bad, after all. 

Old Town Dubrovnik 

Just to be crystal clear, Old Town Dubrovnik is pretty amazing.  

Dubrovnik sits on a rocky plateau that juts out into the Adriatic sea. Get up high and the views are stunning.

The town is home to architectural splendors like the baroque St. Blaise Church and the gothic Rector’s Palace.

Upscale jewelry and clothing shops, cafes, and many, many ice cream stores line the streets. 

The entire Old Town is pedestrian only, so restaurants and cafes compete for space in alleys and thoroughfares. Tables encroach on every walkway. It’s a delicate balancing act between who gets the precious real estate- tables or tourists.

A Sordid Past

Old Town is entirely enclosed by the intact castle walls, which are jaw-dropping cool.  But if you look closely you can see the evidence of a violent time in Croatian history. 

Croatia fought for its independence from Yugoslavia in the early 1990’s. The shrapnel damage can be seen on the walls and in the street pavers. Much of the Old Town was bombed, but thankfully most buildings were left intact. 

Croatia has only been free of communism since 1991, although the country (Yugoslavia) wasn’t closed to the outside world the way Albania, Hungary, or Russia, was, and it shows.  Yugoslavia still had economic ties to the west, and its citizens could travel anywhere. 

Walk the Walk

Of all the “to-do’s” in Dubrovnik, the hands-down highlight was walking the castle walls. 

Walking the walls ranks up there as one of my top five experiences during my travels ever (but don’t ask me to name the others – I was just trying to help you to understand how incredible it was). 

The city walls and ancient town of old Dubrovnik are one of the best preserved in Europe, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (with good reason). 

The city walls were constructed mainly during the 13th–17th centuries.  As we walked, we saw the intricate and complex system of forts, bastions, towers and detached forts. The wall totals 1.25 miles long.

It’s amazing to see how truly massive the walls are. The main wall on the land side is 13-20 feet thick, but narrower on the side facing the sea at a mere 5-10 feet thick. The wall height reaches 83 feet in some places.

We took the advice of everyone and started our wall walk right at 8 am, when the walls opened.  That advice was golden.  We were practically alone for the first half of our walk. Even as the morning progressed, the crowds weren’t bad at all. 

Yep, It’s Magic 

When we got up the steep stairs and emerged onto the wall, I was feeling giddy. The morning sun was rising over the Adriatic Sea.  The water was sparkling and the light on the Old Town was breathtaking. 

Looking out over the red tiled roofs with Lokrum Island and the Adriatic Sea in the distance was simply magnificent. 

I think I took a thousand pictures. The experience is something I’ll never forget. 

Cone Anyone?

I’ve never seen so many ice cream shops in one small area. Probably 50% of the people wandering Old Town are eating ice cream cones, even in the morning.  

And we never had a single ice cream cone while there. I’m not sure why. Maybe the rebel in us. Go figure. 

Our Place

We’ve been told, “Don’t stay in the Old Town!  It’s crowded, busy, and super expensive!”.  Yes, it is all those things.  But after a short adjustment period noted earlier, we thrived in the Old Town.  

We were in a beautiful, centuries old building in a newly renovated apartment right on the busy and activity-filled Gunduliceva Poljana Market Square.  Thankfully our apartment was on the backside of the building, so it was very quiet. 

The Gunduliceva Square was bustling at all hours.  Every morning a farmers market would spring up and fill the square. 

Late in the afternoon the farmers would pack up. Then the local restaurants fill the square with their tables, lit by (fake) candlelight.  It was so charming.

Other things we did:

War Photo Museum

Given the current events in Israel, Gaza, and the West Bank, this museum of compelling war photography was especially gruesome.  The museums intent is to show the realistic effects and horrors of war.  It succeeded.

A Three-Hour Tour

Sorry, that was a lame reference to Gilligan’s Island, a silly sitcom from the 1970’s.  Actually, we took a Three Island Tour, that was more like seven hours.  We went to the Elaphiti Islands, Kolocep, Sipan, and Lopud. 

And while the islands were beautiful, it was a shame that we only were allowed to stay half the time we were promised. Even so, we were able to squeeze in some time on a gorgeous beach on Lopud Island. 

Stroll the Stradun (and Old Town)

The main thoroughfare in the Old Town is the Stradun (or Placa). Walking down the Stradun, it’s incredible to see all the architectural styles. There are Renaissance (Sponza Palace), Gothic (Rector’s Palace which is a history museum now) and Baroque (St. Blaise Church) buildings. 

Ferry to Lokum

Just outside the Old Town harbor, Lokum island looms large. There are multiple ferries daily that only takes 15 minutes to deliver tourists to the small island. 

Lokum Island is a beautiful nature reserve full of groomed walkways, trees, hiking paths, and enormous, flat rock formations that meet up with the sea.

The Iron Throne from the Game of Thrones show was on display on Lokum Island. Much of GOT was filmed in Dubrovnik Old Town, as well as the Elaphiti Islands.

Wins and Losses

Wins

We had sensational weather the entire week – highs in the 80’s and sunshine!

We had a washer…very exciting!

Huge celebration! After 31 days of no TP allowed in the toilet, we have broken free and are once again able to finish things up as usual (and flush the tp)! Thank you Dubrovnik, for having a modern sewage system!

Caught a cool special exhibit on Andy Warhol at the Museum of Modern Art.

Losses

The restaurants were outrageously expensive. Simple entrees, like a burger or pasta dish, were $25-30 or more. And don’t even mention the price of a beer…even a coke was $8! And coffees were more expensive that at home! Yikes. We ended up doing breakfast and most lunches at the apartment to save $$, so it’s all good.

October 8 – 10, 2023

Heading North

We’re on a six hour long bus driving north from Tirana, Albania, to Kotor, Montenegro. 

I’ll be encountering a whole new language in this new country. Time to update the language in Google Translate. I scroll down the list, in search for Montenegrin. 

What’s Up Google Translate?

Languages in the translate app are listed by country, alphabetically. But there’s no Montenegrin. What the heck? For some reason Montenegro didn’t rate with the Google Translate App.

Size Matters

In my crusade to denigrate Google Translate, I decided to pick on Odia. I mean, who’s ever heard of the Odia language (besides Tom, my linguist friend)? Well, I guess 33 million native speakers have. Hmmm…

Ok, then what about Pashto? Turns out Pashto is spoken in Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Iran by 40-60 million people. Hmmm…

A quick Google search shows that the latest data, taken in 2011, indicates that 85,000 people speak Montenegrin. Well, I guess that’s the answer, size does matter. Montenegro is a very small country of only 626,000 people. It’s actually slightly smaller than Connecticut.

It’s All Good

Alas, I was able to look up a few basic Montenegrin words online. I found thank you and hello, but must say I am mightily disappointed in my Google Translate app. I’ve come to trust Google Translate, and frankly, I feel a little betrayed. 

Thankfully, our stay is short; just two nights. Just a quick hit to break up the long bus ride from Albania to Croatia. 

But, I tell you, what a nice place to take a break! 

A Rich History

Kotor is a medieval city. The Old Town is incredibly picturesque, and the town’s history dates back over 2,000 years. 

The first inhabitants of Kotor were the Romans. At that time, the city of Kotor was called Acruvium and it was first mentioned in 168 BC. The walls of Kotor were first built by the Illyrians and Romans, but the “final touch” was given by the Venetians. Emperor Justinian I built a fort above the city in 535 BC.

The Budget

A hit you in the face difference between Albania and Montenegro is the cost of everything.  Although Montenegro is only an EU candidate at this point, their official currency is the euro. And things cost about 50% more here than in Albania.  

We knew a price hike was coming as we headed north, but it’s still hard to take. And we’re heading further north to Dubrovnik, Croatia, then north again to Ljubljana, Slovenia, so we’d better get used to our new reality of pricey locations.

It’s ok though. We’ll do our best to stay thrifty, get a quick glimpse of Kotor, eat some amazing Italian food, visit the maritime museum, and see a zillion cats of all persuasions.

“Cats Are Our Heroes”

As you meander through the winding alleys of Kotor, it’s impossible not to notice all the references to cats. I’d say 90% of the souvenir stores have cat paraphernalia.

Seriously, everywhere you look there are cat mugs, cat ceramics, cat dishtowels, cat tote bags, cat socks, cat artwork, and cat hats. Cat everything. It’s like my Aunt Peggy’s worst nightmare come to life.

I stopped in one tiny shop where the young woman displays her paintings of Kotor, and, of course, paintings of cats. She said “Cats are our heroes”, explaining that in the early 1900’s cats saved the town.

We’re Saved

Folklore has it that Kotor, being located between the mountains and the sea, was once inundated with mice, snakes, and rats. Sailing ships that stopped in Kotor port had cats on board, and the rest is history. Because the ships were from all over the world, Kotor’s cats are quite diverse.

Nowadays the cats have become a kind of symbol both of good luck and prosperity, and of the old town which survived despite the wars, sieges and earthquakes.

Kotor Today

The best way to appreciate old town Kotor is to get lost in the old medieval paver pathways. It’s best to just wander. The small alleyways meander this way and that, popping out onto gorgeous squares full of more delights. 

Beautiful churches, cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops are around every corner. 

Wins & Losses

Wins

One full day in Kotor old town was perfect. It’s a small area, and we covered every bit of the old town. 

Losses

The Kotor Castle: We didn’t make it up to the castle that sits at the top of 1350 stairs. Stairs that are centuries old, crumbled, uneven, and sometimes slippery. My cutoff is any staircase over 1200 steps. Darn, so close, but just a few stairs over my limit. 

Cats: We loved all the cats in town, but after walking through what we deemed “Poop Alley“, I remembered what I don’t like about owning a cat. Enough said.

Next Stop: Dubrovnik, Croatia

September 26 – October 8, 2023

George W. Bush

For a guy I don’t care for much (or at all), George W. Bush certainly has been a prominent feature in my life recently.  You see, the name of the multi-lane street closest to our apartment is Rugga e Barrikadave. We’ve been calling it Dave for short (the Albanian pronunciations are just too challenging).  

So, we were quite surprised to learn that our Dave street actually changes names a few blocks down. It becomes, of all things, Rugga George W. Bush. Ugh.

On top of that, I was casually looking out my bus window on a day-trip out of Tirana. And what do I see but a bar named George W. Bush?  Then, a block later and I see another building with that name emblazoned across it in big golden block letters.  

It’s gotten to the point that I’m not surprised to see W’s name anymore. It appears to be a fixture here in Albania. Why?  Well, the Albanians are very grateful to our former president.

The Albanians have an affection for W and the Americans in general. They’re especially grateful to W for his support in 2007, which ultimately helped Albania join NATO in 2009.

It’s a bit embarrassing that we, as Americans, don’t know Albanian history. Especially when they love us so much. 

And I admit, I didn’t have a clue…until now.

The Albanian Past

The Albanian people have lived through tyrannical, repressive, inhumane, paranoid, tortuous, and controlling regimes from the 1920’s through 1991. First with Italian fascists in control, then the Nazis, and finally the Lenin-socialists (communists).  And, to make matters worse, for nearly 50 years the country was in extreme isolation (1944 to 1991). 

Enver Hoxha, the Stalinist Dictator

In November of 1944, Albania was liberated from the Nazis.  They formed a new state called the Democratic Government of Albania, headed by Enver Hoxha as Prime Minister.

Hoxha immediately established a socialist state. He favored the single-party rule of Albanian communism.

Hoxha proclaimed Albania the world’s first atheist state and proceeded to demolish many historic and beautiful churches and mosques. 

Hoxha oversaw some mild economic progress, and he attempted to eradicate illiteracy in the country. But no accomplishments could ever make up for the damage he inflicted on Albania as its autocratic leader.  

The Sigurimi (Secret Police)

One of Hoxha’s first acts as Prime Minister was to establish the Directorate of the Defense of the People.   Hoxha felt there were enemies everywhere that threatened the nation, both from within and outside the country. 

House of Leaves

Under Hoxha, the House of Leaves became an Interrogation Center “to protect the nation”.  Political enemies were interrogated, tortured, subjected to coercive tactics, and even killed in the central facility.

People were manipulated into spying for the state, both for rewards and to ingratiate themselves with the regime.

Hoxha’s paranoia knew no bounds. Many one-time confidants and trusted comrades were imprisoned and even put to death based on nothing other than Hoxha’s whims. 

Surveillance

Installing bugs in homes, businesses, stores, and everyday items was common.   Nothing was safe from being bugged in order to monitor and root out “enemies of the state”. 

The videotapes of people who lived through the horror of this time were especially powerful. One man recounted how his father was arrested (with no justification), and his family was moved to a new apartment. 

They knew the new apartment was full of bugs.  Everyone in the family had to monitor their every word at all times for years and years. No one could relax and be themselves, so much so that their very personalities were changed by the experience.

The family lived in constant fear. They knew that even if nothing suspicious was said, almost anything could be twisted and used against them.     

Internment Camps

So many people were arrested that the prisons were soon full, so the regime created forced labor camps to house the overflow of “enemies of the state”.

The Hoxha government created 50 internment camps. Thousands of Albanians were imprisoned and forced to work to physical exhaustion and even death.  

A Lone Country

Hoxha was also a staunch isolationist. He felt that any outside influence would be a threat to Albania.

To keep all Albanians inside the country, and anyone from entering, the borders were carefully guarded. The use of specially trained dogs was especially cruel and violent. The dogs hunted down, tracked, and even killed some trying to leave (or enter) the country.

The isolation was very effective. When the country was finally released from the communist grip in 1991, farmers were still using farming methods from the 1920’s. There had been complete isolation for almost fifty years.

The Secret Bunkers

Hoxha’s extreme paranoia led him to believe that Albania was destined for an imminent nuclear or chemical attack.  To prepare, he secretly built hundreds of thousands of bunkers throughout the country in the 1970’s and 80’s. 

These concrete, often mushroom-shaped bunkers come in various sizes and can still be seen all over the country. 

The bunkers were built to last, and are a stark and unwelcome reminder to the Albanian people of a horrible time in their history. 

BUNK’ART 1 & 2

We visited two museums in Tirana that were in decommissioned Bunkers, BUNK’ART 1 and BUNK’ART 2.

BUNK’ART 1 is Enver Hoxha’s decommissioned nuclear bunker. It runs five stories beneath the surface and has a total of 106 rooms, all within an incredible 32,000 square feet.

All the rooms were dimly lit, cold, and claustrophobic. The rooms also had a chemical smell, most likely something to repel mold in the damp conditions.

So many resources were poured into creating these never used bunkers. It’s so sad, when the Albanian people were poor and the country was suffering.

An End to Communism

Hoxha was the longest-ruling Communist leader in history at the time of his death in 1985. It wasn’t until a 1992 election which saw the victory of the nation’s Democratic Party that the Communist rule ended.

Learning of Albania’s severe and horrendous past was intense. Reading examples of resisters being burned alive, shot, or hung was gut wrenching. Some were women, and some as young as 18 years old.

Visiting the places of interrogation, torture, and death left a pit in my stomach and an almost visceral feeling of dread and terror.

It ended only 30 years ago, and seeing actual video footage of people who lived through the horror made it even more profound.

Zone 1

We’re staying in a neighborhood that the guidebooks call Zone 1. It’s always buzzing with activity.

We are near a charming plaza called Pazari i RI, not far from the Skanderbeg Square. Pazari i RI is a pedestrian only area full of small cafes, bakeries, and family run restaurants in a large courtyard that surrounds a modern, covered farmers market.

Between our apartment and Pazari i RI are small alley-like streets with all kinds of small shops, and several bicycle shops too.

Within a minute or two walking there’s a fairly large grocery store, a baker, a butcher, a pharmacy, a hardware store, a salon, and more.  Lots of students clutter the streets in the afternoon when school is let out for the day. And there’s plenty of street art.

Getting to Know You

I’ve got to say, I really am liking it here. This neighborhood is speaking to me. Maybe it’s because we’ve stayed here for almost two weeks. We feel like we are peeling back the layers and going deeper every day.

We’ve found some local, family run restaurants we really like, and we have our local grocer and bakery too. We’ve been using the local buses successfully (mostly), and feel like we know our way around.

It’s easy to walk anywhere we need to, as long as you know what you’re doing. 

The Countdown

As in any large city, locals stand on the corner and wait to cross the street when the light changes.

As it turns out, it doesn’t matter much if you cross with or against the light because the crosswalk isn’t necessarily a safe space anyway. It’s more like a suggestion of a safe space. 

Even with hoards of pedestrians in the crosswalk, cars, and even buses, will push through any slight opening in the crowd. We’ve even seen them pull up so close as to almost touch pedestrians, practically nudging up against the throng of walkers to create an opening!

Alternate Transport

Tirana has an excellent bike lane system throughout the city that is well used. What was surprising was the sheer number of bikes and scooters with electric motors, and just how fast they zip along!

I swear I’ve seen those scooters going 20 or 25 mph. And they are whisper quiet too – so you don’t hear them coming! They rarely yield to pedestrians, and only obey traffic signals when it suits them.

Heading to Skanderbeg Square

At the city center, only a ten minute walk from our apartment, is the expansive Skanderbeg Square. The opera house, the National History Museum, and a statue of Skanderbeg, an Albanian hero, flank the huge tiled square (more on Skanderbeg later in this post).

Big & Modern High Rises

Tons of construction is going on everywhere we look. So many of the high-rise buildings around us are architecturally interesting, and obviously quite modern.

The Toptani shopping mall right in the center of Tirana is a sight to behold. It’s way more modern and fancy than any shopping center back home. Sorry, Alderwood Mall, you just don’t measure up.

The Cafe Culture

So many cafes.  They are always full, from early morning to late into the night.  Every teeny espresso is served up with a large glass of water.  Unfortunately most people are also smoking cigarettes (yuk). 

I’m not sure when all these people eat, but they sure stay caffeinated.

Speaking of Espresso

After a thirty minute walk across town, Steve and I finally found the dentist’s office we were looking for.  KissDent is in a blue-green modern high-rise full of offices and residences. The doorman was waiting in the snazzy, artistically-lighted entry.  

We sat in the small, comfortable, and clean waiting room just across from the receptionist’s desk.  The receptionist popped her head up above the counter and asked us if we’d like an espresso while we waited. This was completely unexpected. 

My first thought was that there’s no way I could have an espresso. Why, I’d just brushed my teeth to come to this appointment!  But, we aren’t in Kansas anymore, Toto.  We’re in Tirana, land of espresso.

Dentistry, Tirana-Style

Apparently dentistry is a thing here in Tirana.  Everywhere we look we see modern & upscale dentist offices. A friend of mine had highly recommended Dr. Alba at KissDent.  She had new veneers done at KissDent a few years back and is still very happy with them.  

After reading lots of five-star reviews, I decided to go for it and have a cleaning, as well as have my veneers replaced (they were very old).  And it didn’t hurt that the cost was about 1/4 of my quote from back home. 

Steve also had a cleaning and a couple of old fillings redone.  

It’s All Good

The office was very modern, clean, and professional.  The staff was well-trained and super friendly.  Dr. Alba has a degree in dentistry and had advanced training in Europe.  The office was as advanced (or more advanced) than any I’ve visited in the U.S.

A New Smile

So now I’m grinning from ear to ear as we make our way here in Tirana.  Thanks, Dr. Alba & staff at KissDent!

Around Town

The violence and oppression that Albania endured over the last century remained visible in the communist block-style, gray, high-rise buildings dotting the city. Years after communism fell, Tirana still reflected its rough past.  

2000: A Facelift

Enter Edi Rama, who locals elected as the mayor of Tirana in 2000. Rama, a former artist, looked to art to help rejuvenate the gloomy, communist-style city.

His idea was to paint the buildings in lively colors and designs in order to “revive the hope that had been lost in my city.”

The reaction was positive and immediate. After revealing the first painted building, crowds gathered to see it, causing traffic jams.

But EU officials, who controlled the funding for Tirana’s rebuilding, opposed Rama’s project. They objected to the splashy colors because it did not meet EU standards. But Rama refused to compromise — even when those officials threatened to block the city’s funds.

We saw many examples of these lively and colorful buildings throughout our stay. Some are quite faded by now, but you can still see how lovely they were at one time.

Sorry, Not Sorry

Thankfully the mayor stood steadfast, stating that “..we have enough grey to last us a lifetime.”

The campaign to revive the capital through architectural art continued. The colors not only changed the look of the city but also the attitude of the people.

A Daytrip to Vruje

One day we made our way, via bus, to Vruje, a medieval town about an hour away from Tirana.  It was a lovely small town, albeit a bit touristy.

The cobblestone winding walkways had lots of shops all selling the same wares. There was enough silver jewelry, lace items, wool handmade slippers, and kilims (Albanian rugs) to sink a ship. 

Skanderbeg

At the top of a hill in town is the Vruje Castle. The Castle was the home and headquarters of the feudal lord and military commander, Gjergj Kastrioti, commonly known as Skanderbeg.

It is here that Skanderbeg became a hero of Albania and fought off the Ottomans in the 1400’s. 

The Final Furgon

We were a little sad to be on our last furgon (mini-bus) in Albania. The furgon to Vruje held about 8 people. It included a very smiley Albanian man who kept trying to reassure us of something – we’re not sure what.  Maybe he wanted us to feel secure in our destination?  It’s hard to know, but he was very sweet and happy.  

Our furgon was scheduled to leave at 11 am, and, as it turns out, so were a bunch of others.  So when the clock struck 11 am, we, along with a mixture of about eight to ten other furgons and full-size buses, started our engines.

The problem was we were in a huge, open expanse of a parking-lot. There were no parking spaces, lines, or directional arrows. And there was just one exit that we were all gunning for.  The cacophony of horns, engines, and yelling was like an unorganized dance of drunk, crazy people. 

It was hard to believe, but no furgons or buses collided. Somehow, we each made our way out of the lot and were on our way. Just another day for the furgon drivers.

Wins and Losses

Wins

Bravo! Bravo! There’s such a strong Italian influence here in Tirana – and so many Italians. This results in a huge WIN because there are so many excellent Italian restaurants about.

The Dude! What else can I say?

Books Galore: After reading about the very high illiteracy rate during the communist time, it was a delight to see books for sale on so many street corners.

Friends in the park: Seeing the same group of cute old men gathered in the park day after day warmed my heart.

Losses

COVID anyone? Walking across town for 45 minutes to have Steve take a COVID-19 test was a bummer, but thankfully it came back negative. He had quite the sore throat, and we needed to be sure it was safe for him to go to the dentist. And it was kind of interesting to spend time in an Albanian hospital, I suppose.

Toilet Paper fun: Yes, it’s day 38 of no tp allowed in the toilet. And what’s worse? We are not in a hotel now, so we (ok, actually Steve), has to take out our bathroom trash out to the street receptacle every few days. Yuk. Thanks Steve!

Saying Goodbye

We’ve loved exploring Albania and are sorry to say goodbye! From the beautiful coast, to the mountain town of Berat, to the capital of Tirana – it’s been incredible.

We had read that Albania has been discovered by tourists, and the beach towns are having a hard time handling their newfound fame. I would say that it does appear to be the case.

The hospitality industry is very new to Albania, and some coastal towns are seeing unchecked and unplanned growth and building. And along with the sudden expansion and popularity, come some other challenges, like garbage, infrastructure issues, and a fairly steep learning curve on how to handle it all.

It will be interesting to see how the popular towns handle the increase in tourism over the next few years. Apparently things have changed enormously already over the past 4-6 years, and not always for the better.

That being said, the beaches and towns of Sarande and Himare were lovely in many ways. And the people were friendly and gracious.

Tirana was probably my favorite though. She stole my heart just a little bit. I hope to see her again.

Next Up: Kotor, Montenegro