Month: September 2022

September 21 to 26, 2022

More Fun in the Sun

Lovely Kos, Greece. More ancient history, more castles and Asklepions (ancient medical clinic), more gorgeous beaches, more super-dark tanned tourists, more explorations, and more mishaps. 

Kos Town

We arrived at 7:45 am, but couldn’t access our apartment until 1 pm, so on virtually no sleep, we started roaming Kos town. 

The Knights of Rhodes

The first place we stumbled upon was the Neratzia Castle (or Castle of the Knights), an ancient fortress with a beautiful view of the sea. 

The Castle was built by the Knights of Rhodes (or the knights of the Order of Saint John), for the fear of the Ottomans. The knights had captured the island, together with the rest of the Dodecanese islands, since 1315.

The Apartment 

Thankfully our digs were a bit newer. We stayed in a modern and spacious studio apartment with a kitchenette. Our cooking burners were built into the top of the toaster oven. Never seen that before!

We had a spacious balcony with a view of a cluttered courtyard, with plenty of room to hang dry our hand washing.

It was perfect. Great location right in the center of Kos Town. 

Museums Too

We spent our days in Kos at the beach, exploring ancient ruins, or at the archeological museums on the island.

. 

Asklepion

We couldn’t believe the cat reception we received at Asklepion. Luckily we already had our tickets from a multi-pass we purchased in town, so we didn’t have to disturb the cat in the ticket window.

Then we walk over to the entry point and there’s another, very serious looking cat, giving us the stink-eye. It let us pass. Meowww.

Our afternoon at Asklepion was well-planned out, until it wasn’t. 

Hippocrates Was Here

Asklepion was the ancient healing temple & medical school where Hippocrates once practiced. 

It’s All About Timing

We headed up the hill to the ancient site in the late afternoon, on the 4:30pm municipal bus. The soonest bus back to Kos Town was at 7:30pm, so we had plenty of time to explore.  

Asklepion was one of the only highlights on the island of Kos where it was crucial to have transportation. It’s located quite far from town on a mostly uphill country road with no shoulders or sidewalks. It’s basically out in the middle of nowhere.

Many people had rented vehicles or scooters. We rely on the bus. 

Oh Entitled Ones

As we toured the ruins, we continually found ourselves behind the same young and “beautiful” European couple, probably in their early 30’s. They were in front of us at almost every information board. 

They had an air of entitlement about themselves, and tended to dominate every information board, oblivious that others (namely us) were trying to read the information too. 

Cafe Break

At one point we decided to kill some time at the little outdoor café at the ruins. As we walked up to order we saw that the same couple that had been causing us difficulties were talking to the barista. It was obvious that they hadn’t planned how to get back into town. 

Outta Luck

There really aren’t a lot of options except the bus, if you don’t have your own transportation. For some reason there seem to be maybe one or two taxis for this entire island and they are never to be found.

Plan Ahead, People

After ordering we went and took our table, whispering to each other about how those people should have planned ahead like we did. 

We’d made sure that we had round-trip tickets for the bus and had a printed bus schedule in hand. So we knew what we were doing and we were all good. Our bus came in one hour. 

Vague Instructions 

The young couple wanted to leave pronto, so their only option, according to the barista, was to walk 15 or 20 minutes down the road to a villa (good luck finding that) and probably they could catch a bus. 

They walked away from the cafe counter looking a bit perturbed. We felt like it was a bit of karma, come their way. 

The Asterisk

Only problem was, that when it came time for us to leave, we pulled out the bus schedule and noticed that there was no asterisk by the 19:30 (7:30 pm) pick up time we were counting on. And the asterisk meant everything, as it turns out. Without an asterisk, no bus was coming. 

So, we’re not sure what we did to deserve it, but we had to walk an hour back into Kos Town, trying hard to get back before dark.  So much for our best-laid plans. 

Wins & Losses

The Walking Begins

Walking all that way back to Kos Town from Asklepion was somewhat torturous, especially after already walking all over the grounds for hours and up three massive staircases to the tippy top of the ruins. Those Greeks sure do appreciate a good view. 

Thankfully some wonderful surprises awaited us on our way down. Surprises we never would have seen if our bus had had an asterisk. 

A Good Omen

First, we happened upon a white goat. He was definitely saying a big chairete (hello in Greek) to me, since he could tell I’m a former goat owner and general all-around goat lover.

I decided the white goat was a harbinger of good things to come, and I was right. 

I Do

Continuing our trek down the hill, when the sun was almost set, we were just arriving in the small village of Platani.  There, we happened upon a wedding in the street.  A beautiful, festive, Greek wedding. 

One lovely bride and one handsome groom led the way up the street towards us, hand in hand. They were followed by the dancing bridal party and guests, with loud Greek celebratory music blaring. I was thrilled. What luck. 

Loss in Kos

The plumbing here on the Dodecanese islands of Greece isn’t set up to accept any toilet paper. It’s non-negotiable. You do what’s necessary, wipe, and toss the tp in the garbage can to the side of the toilet. 

As you can imagine, it’s easy to slip-up. Mostly we remember. But there is that unfortunate time now and again where we have to fish out the tp. 

We’re just trying to be good Greek citizens and not back up the entire island sewage system. 😳. Definitely in the losses category. 

Up Next: Symi Island, Greece

September 21, 2022

And So It Begins

Confusion, irritation, fear, and anger were swirling around in my head. It was 3:15 in the morning and I was being herded off an enormous ferry ship by a frantic Greek woman in an official looking uniform. A woman who spoke only one word of English that I was about to hear repeatedly. 

On to Kos

Our alarm went off at 2:10 am. We needed to make sure we had enough time to catch a taxi to the port.  We were heading to the Pier to board our ferry from Samos to Kos Island, Greece.

I researched the ferry schedule back home in Seattle and it seemed the only ship from Samos Island to Kos Island left port at 3:25 am. That wasn’t such great news.

I hoped I was wrong, and there’d be another option at a more reasonable hour once we were actually on Samos, but no, that was the one and only. Three twenty-five am it is. 

The Dead of Night

Kokkari, the small, charming, and sleepy village by the sea on the Greek island of Samos, where we had spent the past two days, was dead at that late hour.

I had asked our host the day before to arrange for a taxi, and I had my fingers crossed that the taxi would actually be at the bottom of the long line of wide stone stairs that led from our studio apartment to the alley below. If the taxi was a no-show, we’d be stranded. 

I descended the stairs, bleary-eyed, not quite fully awake, carrying my backpack and crossbody bag like a packhorse climbing down off a mountain in the darkness of the night. 

And there it was. A taxi was waiting, engine on. 

The Terminal

The taxi drove through the deserted village, then wound through the hills to the port.

There were more people than I had expected milling about outside the ferry terminal building at 2:50 am in the pitch black, but the roads were vacant. There was even a huge tour bus emptying its entourage out onto the pier for the next ferry. 

Blue Star Ferries

We watched the ferry arrive. The name of the ferry line, Blue Star Ferries, was emblazoned in huge letters on its side. 

We had purchased our tickets from the Blue Star Ferry office in Vathy, the port town we arrived at two days prior. Our tickets prominently said “Blue Star Ferries” on the front. 

Ferry Ship on Steroids

The ferry was huge. It was the size of one of those two or three thousand passenger cruise ships, which wasn’t what we had expected. Our ferry to Samos was probably one twentieth the size and passenger only.

This ship had many floors and carried vehicles, as well as passengers. It had lobbies, restaurants, lounges, leather couches, chandeliers, fancy shops, and staterooms. 

The Process Begins

Everyone started moving forward, inching through an opening where a ferry worker stood.  I had our tickets in hand, ready to show him, but he shook his head indicating no need. 

I said, “Kos?”, and pointed at the ship. He said, “yes”, and swung his whole arm from front to back, as if I should just keep moving along. 

After moving by the non-ticket taker, we were corralled in a waiting area on the pier while the ship finished backing in and getting secured at the dock. 

The Announcements

A ferry worker came over and yelled some announcements in Greek, loudly over the heads of the large group that was waiting to board. 

Steve had ended up a bit away from me in the crowd during the jockeying for position, as we gathered in the waiting area. He turned towards me and our eyes met. 

We simultaneously did the universally known eye-roll. In this instance it meant, “Yeah buddy, we have no idea what you just said.” 

We figured we could do without the announcement, as long as we kept our wits about us and moved along with the group. 

Finally to Board

A worker gave us the go-ahead, and we shuffled en masse towards the Blue Star Ferry monstrosity, careful to avoid getting run over by the line of huge trucks and cars emptying off the ferry. 

Just as we were going up the ferry’s ramp, I noticed yet another equally gigantic ship coming into port. I was surprised it was so busy at that hour. 

Finally onboard the lowest level of the ship, we were at the entrance door.  We handed the worker our tickets. He ripped off a section and handed a part of the ticket back to us. 

We Made It

Once inside, we traveled up two long escalators that took us up to the fourth floor lobby, with swirling carpet patterns, chandeliers and a reception desk, just like a cruise ship. 

We proceeded at a fast clip, with me in the lead, down the hall scanning for open seating in the large lounge. I wanted the best location to make camp for the next four hours. I was a woman on a mission. 

I noticed that most of the couches, where a person could actually lie down and get some rest, were taken. Bummer. I was moving hurriedly and hadn’t realized Steve was dropping back a ways. 

Greeks Not Bearing Gifts

That’s when it happened. The non-English speaking ferry worker suddenly approached me head-on, opening her arms as if she were going to embrace me.  I’d never seen the woman before. Her eyes were intent on mine, like she had a mission of her own. She grabbed me by the elbow and was speaking in an urgent tone in Greek. 

She spun me around and was using her one word of English, “Hurry!!!”

Steve Has Problems of His Own

As she turned me around, I could now see Steve, who was a good 20 feet away. A man, also in uniform, was manhandling Steve in a similar manner, urging him to turn-around and head back down stairs to the entry ramp. 

At the woman’s insistence, I reluctantly took tiny side-steps back towards the escalators, trying not to lose too much ground. She kept her hand securely on my elbow, saying, “Hurry, hurry.”

I’ve Got This

I quickly pulled out our ticket stubs, sure this would clear things up.  While still side-stepping backwards I held the tickets out for the woman to clearly see.

“No, please. We’ve already shown our ticket as we entered,” I exclaimed. She didn’t even acknowledge me. She was singularly focused on getting me downstairs. 

Well, That Didn’t Work

I couldn’t believe this was happening. Frankly, I was getting a bit irritated. In desperation I glanced over at Steve several times, looking for some help or an explanation. He seemed to be in a similar predicament and was too busy dealing with his own aggressor to look over at me. No help was coming from Steve. 

Meanwhile, this woman was certainly having her way with me. 

Confusion Reigns

I was so confused. What is happening here?  We paid. We have a ticket. The guy saw our tickets and let us on board. 

Then I started to get a little frightened. Had we done something wrong?  Were we being detained or even arrested? What are Greek prisons like?

The Way Station

We arrived at the top of the escalators we had so recently ascended, but going down there were only stairs. Lots of stairs. The woman had done her duty and delivered me. Now it was up to me to go down. We were at the point of no-return.

Steve was already halfway down the staircase. At that moment I heard a booming male voice from the landing below.

“You’re on the wrong ship!”

The man was most certainly directing this urgent message to us. I quickly looked around. There was no one else but us.  Everyone else had already boarded and were happily settled elsewhere on the ship.  The ferry was about to leave the port. 

Clarity

Suddenly it all became very clear. My companion was still by my side, her eyes pleading with me to go down the stairs. For maybe the fifth time she repeated her only word of English, “HURRY!”  

Everything suddenly clicked. I didn’t know how we could possibly be on the wrong ship, but the intensity and urgency of these several ferry employees, who were tasked with finding and redirecting these English speaking foreigners, came through loud and clear. 

Hysterical Strength 

They say when there’s an emergency that you gain strength and don’t feel pain. The experts call this Hysterical Strength.

Usually I would take two long flights of stairs down slowly and carefully, especially all loaded down with my travel gear. But I took those stairs at a record clip and without a thought, catching up with Steve as we exited the ship.  Hysterical strength sure comes in handy in a pinch.

The Right Ship

The only other ship in port was down the pier about 200 yards. It had already loaded all walk-on passengers, and was finishing up with a few enormous trucks. Having just conquered the stairs, I was a bit winded and still in disbelief, but when Steve said, “Maybe we should run,” we did, without hesitation. 

Panting and shell-shocked from our ordeal, we were relieved to reach the correct ferry, the Ariadne, just as the last truck was loading. The ferry worker, who was ushering the truck onboard, was a bit confused to see us, but looked at our ticket and let us proceed. 

Wins & Losses

Our ship, the Ariadne, was way less crowded than the wrong ship (we never did get the name, just knew it said “Blue Star Ferries”). We were able to secure two comfortable leather couches to rest and relax on our ride to Kos. 

Unfortunately our two couches onboard were separated by an already occupied couch. An older woman lay wrapped like a burrito covering her entire body and most of her face. She was snoring loudly the entire four hours. 

We were very happy to secure couches for the four hour ride. There were many others trying to get some sleep too.

We learned a valuable lesson. Always look at the ship name on the ticket and verify before boarding. Rookie mistake. 

Getting up at 2-something in the morning to catch a four-hour ferry wasn’t ideal, but arriving at our new Greek island of Kos at 7:45 am was pretty nice.  

We had a beautiful sunrise as we approached Kos Island.

We aren’t thrilled with the Blue Star Ferries ticket-taker who should have noticed we handed him tickets for the Ariadne as we boarded.  That being said, we are so sincerely grateful for the dedication of the ferry workers who hunted us down and their persistence in getting two clueless Americans off that ship.   

Next Stop: Kos Town, Kos, Greece

September 19 – 21, 2022

Window Seats

The ferry from Kusadasi, Turkey, to the Greek Island of Samos, was a passenger-only ferry that left port at 9:30 am.  We secured coveted window seats, only there were no windows.  We were up-top, in the sun and the wind, just where we wanted to be for the hour and half ride.  

Customs

The boat arrived in Vathy, Samos. We disembarked and went through customs, which took about 30 minutes.

Moving Along

Customs wasn’t nearly as long as I had read it could be in some horror stories on Tripadvisor from travelers trying to do a quick day-trip from Turkey. Several people had horrible experiences being trapped in Greek customs on the island for 2 hours or more. So we either got lucky or hit a lull. Either way, it was a favorable turn of events.

The Ferry Office

We walked across the street from customs to a ferry office and purchased our tickets for the next leg of our journey. Since we’d only be here on Samos for two nights, we wanted to secure them early.

After we had our tickets all sorted, we took a taxi to the seaside village of Kokkari, where we’d be staying.

The Touristy Scale

So far, every town we’ve visited on this trip has been another notch up from the previous one on the touristy scale, and Kokkari is no exception. 

My invented touristy scale isn’t an exact science. It’s roughly measured as follows.

The Key Questions

How many tourists do you see walking the streets?  
How expensive are the restaurants?
How dressed-up are the people walking around?
How expensive is a mid-range, budget hotel?
How many souvenir shops do you pass on an average block?
How many tour buses are parked outside?

High or Low

Having a low touristy scale score isn’t always a positive, just as having a high touristy scale score isn’t always a negative.

Steve and I tend to favor locations with a low touristy score. They are often more authentic, cheaper, and can provide an amazing cultural experience.

Often, for obvious reasons, the major league cities and heavy-hitter sites have a high touristy score. They attract hordes of visitors and must have the required infrastructure to accommodate them. They tend to be more expensive and more crowded.

The high scorers are often the “must-see” sites and are famous for a good reason. But those low scorers can be the hidden gems, where you encounter the unexpected and have profound and rewarding travel experiences.

How Do You Rate?

Bergama vs. Selcuk vs. Kokkari

Our first stop on this current trip, Bergama, Turkey, was a two on my 10 point made-up touristy scale.  It was a very authentic, non-touristy town (see Bergama, Turkey post for more).

Our second stop, Selcuk, Turkey, home of the famous Ephesus ruins, was a four.  Selcuk was a touch more touristy, yet still retained an authentic feel (see Selcuk, Turkey post for more).

Third stop, Kokkari, Samos is a solid six.  The biggest difference here in Kokkari is that the vast majority of people you see wandering about are tourists. This place is tailor made to serve tourists, but it’s still a relaxed, easy-going town, at least in late September.

What a big change from the Turkish towns we have visited so far, where the vast majority of people were locals going about their day.

Daily Costs

Kokkari is more expensive by far, but it is, after all, another country (Greece), and a part of the European Union, where the dollar doesn’t go nearly as far as in Turkey.

As an example, a 1.5 liter water bottle in Turkey is the equivalent of 17 cents.  The same size water bottle in Samos is the equivalent of 1 dollar. We are averaging $30 to $35 for dinner/lunch here, whereas we averaged $5 to $10 in Turkey for the same meals.

So, to not completely break the budget, we are making our own breakfast in our kitchenette, and occasionally just grabbing a sandwich instead of sitting down at a restaurant. There are options, thankfully.

The Village

Kokkari is a small village tucked in along the coast.  It’s a beach town. It’s very hilly in parts, but along the coast it’s mostly flat.

There is a small and quiet main drag in the village, one block off the beach.

Tarsanas

Our first afternoon on the island we had lunch at Tarsanas restaurant, about a three minute walk from our studio apartment. I asked our waiter, who I later found out is named Costas, if there was a bathroom I could use.

He replied, “Yes, inside.  Always, it is inside.”  Good to know – bathrooms are always inside here in Samos.

Costas

Costas, who appeared to be the owner of Tarsanas, was exactly as I picture a quintessential Greek man to be.  He was a middle-aged, stocky man, deeply tanned and lined from the sun, with not much hair up top. 

He wore a blue and white short-sleeve striped shirt and long pants, and worked very hard taking and delivering orders to the seaside tables, as well as the loungers on the beach, all day long and into the night. 

Sun Loungers

Many restaurants along the seaside offer sun loungers, including Tarsanas. We were able to reserve the last set of loungers for the following day. For six euros we had all-day rights to two loungers with pads, a shade umbrella, and two waters.

The Beach

The beach was glorious. It was uncrowded and relaxing. The turquoise water was clear and clean, a bit cold, but still swimmable.

The beach was covered in small rocks, ranging in size from a bottle cap to a large marble. All the rocks were smoothly rounded and polished from the pounding surf.

When wet, the assorted rocks glistened, and their colors deepened.

We knew we’d encounter rocky beaches, and we had our water shoes with us. I thought the rocks on the beach would be a disadvantage, but I loved walking the beach, carefully looking at all the shapes and colors. It was as beautiful as walking along a shoreline covered in shells.

Monty Python

We walked ten feet from our sun loungers and sat at a table for lunch. After ordering, Steve mentions a woman he couldn’t help but notice, who was sunbathing topless a few loungers to our left. I, myself, hadn’t noticed.

Steve continued. He said the woman was very well-endowed, not using that exact terminology. Instead he used a Monty Python reference that I wasn’t actually familiar with, from the movie, Monty Python and the Holy Grail: “She has huge tracts of land.”

After hearing this, I wanted to get a look for myself, but Steve said she had gone.

Location, location, location

Our lunch table was on the beach level. There was a walkway just above us with more tables. When seated, our heads were about the same level as our upstairs neighbors feet. The upper tables were not far, not far at all.

I jokingly said, “That lady is probably sitting right above us and listening to your description of her upper regions.” That would be crazy, right?

We leisurely finished our delicious lunch of fried feta in filo, drizzled with honey and sesame seeds (to die for) and Caesar salad, and returned to our loungers.

The Punch Line

As we moved back to our loungers, Steve turned and looked at the table above where we had just been eating our lunch. He cringed, and sheepishly acknowledged that yes indeed, the woman with large tracts was sitting directly above us with her companion.

Our best hope was that she was European (this was very likely) and didn’t understand English. If not, hopefully she was flattered.

Those uncouth Americans. Can’t take us anywhere.

The Sea

The highlight of Samos is the sea.  The beautiful sea.  We had a stunning view from our studio apartment balcony.  If we weren’t on our balcony we were lying in sun loungers or bobbing in the beautiful turquoise waters. 

Wins & Losses

The Full Quote

The full quote from Monty Python is: “She’s beautiful. She’s rich. She’s got huge… tracts o’ land!”

We will never know if that woman was rich. Steve didn’t mention if she was beautiful, and I didn’t ask. I purposely didn’t look over at her, just in case she had overheard us. I just couldn’t chance even a peek.

The Sunrise

This sunrise, as seen from our balcony, that Steve woke me up to witness. Unbelievable.

Cigarette Smoke

All over Turkey and Greece people smoke cigarettes. Everywhere and always, we are subjected to cigarette smoke. I can’t stand cigarette smoke.

So, it’s not surprising that our neighboring studio occupants were heavy smokers and also liked to sit out on their balcony, so we didn’t have as much balcony-time as we would have liked.

Thankfully the same stunning view was around just about every corner here in Kokkari, so we didn’t miss out at all.

Next Up: The Ariadne (A Ferry Story)

September 14-19, 2022

Wing and a Prayer

We arrived in Selcuk from Bergama on a wing and a prayer.  But we were not trusting in divine intervention, rather we were putting all our faith in the Turkish taxi driver.  

Our hotelier called the taxi service. After our taxi arrived and we loaded in, the hotelier explained to the taxi driver where we wanted to go, but the taxi driver seemed to have his own idea of what was best.  After a somewhat intense exchange in Turkish, the taxi driver prevailed.  

Cross Your Fingers

The hotelier looked at us, already sitting in the back seat of the taxi with our backpacks secured in the trunk and said, “He knows where to go”. 

Ok, then.  Let’s do this!

No Buses For You

A few days before, we had checked the bus service online ourselves, only to find that there were NO buses (apparently) from Bergama, where we had spent the past four nights, to Selcuk, our intended destination.  So, we decided if we could just get to Izmir, the second largest city in Turkey (just behind Istanbul), we should be ok.  After all, Izmir is about halfway to Selcuk and has an enormous bus station.  

It seemed like a good plan, but the bus website once again disappointed us with the news that there are NO buses from Izmir to Selcuk.  How can that be?

No Problem (He Says)

With our frustrations mounting, we checked with the hotel owner, and he assured us there was no problem getting to Izmir.  He said there are buses from Bergama to Izmir every 40 minutes.  We weren’t sure why the bus website didn’t have this information too. 

And so it began, the “travel by trust” approach was set in motion.  

Ultimately there was either divine intervention involved or some very good luck.  Our taxi driver zipped us to a part of Bergama we hadn’t been to (which was a little worrisome….where are we going???).  

Need Some Help?

After a quick ten minute drive, he dropped us in front of a bustling tiny bus station outpost storefront.  I waited out front while Steve went in.  A nice Turkish guy in his 20’s followed Steve in because he could tell we likely needed help (gotta love it – the Turkish people are so very kind).  

We’re All Set

Steve was already at the counter and said “Izmir for two”.  That’s all that was needed and he promptly emerged back outside with our tickets.  Steve had it handled without any trouble at all.

The Dolmus

Steve pointed to the Mercedes van that held up to 15 passengers parked right in front of us at the curb. These shared vans are called Dolmus (mini-bus) and are very common in Turkey.

The Dolmus van collects passengers going to the same destination, and when the driver feels the van is full enough, they set-off.  

Steve pointed at the van, “That’s our van and it leaves in 15 minutes”.  We couldn’t have timed it better. 

Welcome to Izmir

A couple of hours later we pulled into the huge Izmir bus station, disembarked, and had lunch at an outdoor cafe. I felt confident in my lunch order, but to my great alarm Steve realized I had ordered liver (after we checked my Turkish food notes on my phone).

Rushing up to the waiter to make a quick change, I only hoped that he understood what I was saying (he spoke virtually no English).  Once again, our luck stayed true and I didn’t end up with liver for my lunch.  Thank Allah.

Selcuk Bound

Our next bus, to our final destination of Selcuk, was also a Dolmus. We had hoped for a regular size bus, like we had ridden from Edremit to Bergama the week before.  The buses in Turkey are almost like flying on a first class flight.

The Big Bus

The seats on the big bus are spacious and comfy with individual screens (but all in Turkish). There’s a bus attendant (like a flight attendant) that serves snacks and drinks as you cruise to your destination. The snacks aren’t too deluxe, but you can choose what you want from a large tray of snacks, so I’d say they are better than the usual plane fare of peanuts or pretzels. 

Alas, we were on another Dolmus, with no treats or perks, but we were happy just to be aboard and on our way. 

Sitting in the Dolmus heading to Selcuk, it finally dawned on us that the Dolmus’s don’t really adhere to a firm schedule, so don’t show up on the bus websites. No wonder we had so many difficulties trying to plan the next leg of our journey. Mystery solved. 

Şirince

At our host’s suggestion, we hopped aboard a Dolmus heading to Şirince early on our first morning in Selcuk.  Şirince is up in the hills about a 15 minute drive from Selcuk. 

Historically speaking, it had once been a thriving Greek enclave. I had the impression it was going to be like Solvang, an “authentic” Danish town in southern California that is a bit too cutsie and extremely touristy.

It’s Hot In Here

We were sitting in the Dolmus in the large Selcuk parking lot, waiting for the van to fill up with riders. It was mid-morning, but already in the 80’s and growing warmer by the minute.

We were starting to sweat, being in the far back of the stifling van, when a young woman started chatting with us. I didn’t get her name, so I’ll call her Aiyla, the number one Turkish baby-girl name on the internet.

Aiyla seemed perfectly comfortable (i.e. not sweaty), even though she was wearing black yoga pants and a clingy, long-sleeve black top. I, on the other hand, was wearing the most minimal and lightweight clothing I felt was acceptable for a 61 year old foreigner. 

Ankara University 

Aiyla was a university student in Ankara (the capital of Turkey), studying how to teach English to foreigners.

We were the first Americans she had ever met. 

America

Her first question, out of the gate, was, “How do you like America?” Hmmm…that’s kind of a big, open-ended question, and not one I’d ever had to answer. 

The first thing that pops into my head is politics, but I know I shouldn’t go there.  After stumbling around a bit (what to say…what to say?), I finally said, “Well, I like it a lot, in general.”  Way to commit.  

Knowing that was a lame answer, my mind jumps to what I feel is the most pressing issue in my world (yes, it’s politics), but I still tried to keep things general. I say,  “There’s a lot of problems in our country and the people are very divided.”

Her reply was spot on. “Yes, just like in my country.  Things are bubbling and boiling”.  Perfect.  So if I’m asked again I’ll have my reply ready, courtesy of the woman from Ankara.  

Yes indeed, things in America are bubbling and boiling. Thank you, Aiyla.

A Day in Şirince

We spent a lovely day in Şirince, climbing the steep stone walkways lined by stores selling souvenirs, local wine, more souvenirs, and more local wine.  It was quite a touristy town, and deservedly so.  It was charming and picturesque.  It was better than Solvang, in my book.

Manti Heaven

We ate lunch at a wonderful, family owned restaurant at the very top of the hill with a stunning view of the town and mountains beyond (that was recommended by our host). 

I had Turkish Manti and it was marvelous.  Manti is made of very tiny, doughy, ravioli-like pasta, with chili oil sauce, garlic, and topped with yogurt.  I wasn’t sure about having yogurt on top of my dish, but it tasted like the richest, thickest sour cream ever and won my heart (and endorsement).

I was in foodie heaven.  

Avoid the Crowds

We’d intentionally gone to Şirince on a weekday, as our host says the weekend is absolutely packed with tourists.

We also avoided Ephesus on the weekend for the same reason, although cruise ship tour groups come in droves on any day of the week.  

Ephesus

Ephesus is why all tourists, and Turkish people alike, come to the Anatolian area.  It’s one of Turkey’s biggest hitters, one of its best-preserved archaeological sites, and one of its most important historic sites.

Way Back

The beginnings of the city date back to the 11th century B.C.  Ephesus survived multiple attacks and changed hands many times between conquerors. The Greeks, the Romans, the Persians and the Byzantines all had their time controlling the city and contributed to its creation. 

It’s a Big Place

Ephesus was a thriving metropolis with a library, multiple squares, stores, temples, beautiful sculptures, public baths, dwellings, a 24,000 seat amphitheater, and more.

The amount of solid marble in every column and stair is mind-boggling. The sheer magnitude of the city, the architecture, and the gleam of the stone pathways weaving their way through the city are simply breathtaking. 

Name-Dropping

Imagine Julius Caesar, Cleopatra and Mark Antony, Alexander the Great, Apostle Paul, St. John the Evangelist, and Emperor Augustus walking the very paths we were on.  Wowza.

The Terrace Houses

As a part of our Ephesus adventure, we elected to tour The Terrace Houses too, homes of the rich and famous. These upscale homes of the day were built into the side of the hill and served the elite of the city. Each home was expansive, from 1,000 up to 6,000 square feet in size. 

Frescoes

Many of the rooms had hand-painted frescoes that were still visible on the walls of these luxury homes.

But what I found most impressive were the mosaic floor coverings. Each room appeared to have its own large rug in its own pattern and colors. 

Religion Too

Throughout history, Ephesus was also a hub of early Christian evangelism and remains an important Christian pilgrimage destination. Mary, the mother of Jesus, is thought to have spent her last years in Ephesus with Saint John. 

The Almond Cookie Incident 

We took a well-deserved break from walking in the blazing sun through the streets of Ephesus. We sat on some rocks in a tiny spot of shade just to one side of The Library of Celsus (the main event).  Unfortunately the only shade to be had was in a designated smoking area. 

We had purchased water and a tiny tin of thumb-sized almond cookies. The sitting area was small, and there was another tourist, a 30-something man, sitting right there with us. So, to be hospitable, I offered the chap a cookie. 

Mr. Healthy

He declined, saying “No thanks, I don’t eat sugar,” in what I felt was a somewhat judgmental tone, while taking a huge drag off his cigarette. His loss. Glad to see he’s so health conscious.

The Old Quarter

The old quarter of Selçuk retains much of its traditional Turkish culture. That includes lots of smokers smoking. Maybe they also avoid sugar, I don’t know. 

Selcuk is definitely a step-up in it’s ability to host tourists in comparison to Bergama (which had it’s own charm). The old quarter is set up for people who are ready to spend money in the many shops and restaurants. That being said, the food costs were quite low.

The town and people are just lovely and welcoming. It’s very walkable, as long as you’re watching out for slippery rocks or the occasional missing part of the sidewalk. 

Hookah Bars and More

There are beautiful green spaces, parks, and lovely black and white tiles woven into patterns on the wide walkways in town. Near our hotel are well tended ivy-arched walkways, about six of them, lined with shops, hookah bars, beautiful mosques with their minarets, and small, family-run restaurants. 

What a Bargain

The food costs are low. Our average lunch for two costs around $5 and our average dinner is $8-10. It helps our pocketbook that it’s unusual to find alcohol here (99% Muslim country), so for most meals we’re drinking sparkling water, which is just fine with me. 

Steve does miss having a beer, especially in this heat (90’s), so has splurged a few times when beer is on the menu. 😂

The Tractors of Selcuk

Selcuk’s a farming town full of farmers and their tractors. Walking through the neighborhoods we see tractors parked everywhere. 

The farmers own orchards full of olive and orange trees, pomegranates and more outside of town, but they all live in the town. 

The Work Day

Because it’s so hot during summer, which lasts through October, the farmers start their day very early, as early as 4 AM. Their day then ends before the real heat of the afternoon, usually by noon.  When their day is done their drink of choice is cay (Turkish tea).  

Mens Cafes

So there they sit, all the farmers and farm workers, from noon into the late evening, taking up every chair at the “Mens Cafes”.  The men socialize for hours and hours.

Tiles Anyone?

As the men enjoy themselves, drinking their tea and chain smoking, their primary game of choice is a game using tiles. These large tiles, maybe 3” square, are analogous to our playing cards. 

They use a long wooden tray, like the one used in Scrabble, but much larger, to hold their tiles. The trays about a foot long and keeps their tiles easily visible, but private. No cramped hands from holding a bunch of cards. Ingenious.

No Women Allowed (Basically)

But wait just a minute. What about the women, I asked our host? When do they get social time? He said women are not banned from these cafes, but it’s customary that only men participate. 

Labor Intensive

I pictured the women at home all day and late into the evening, tending children, cooking, cleaning, and doing laundry. Geez, that sucks. Patriarchy at its finest. 

But our host assured me, with a little laugh, that the women tend to kick the men out of the house so they can hang out with their girlfriends all day. He said they have elaborate tea parties and gossip, eat cakes, and have a great time.

That sounds a little unrealistic to me.  I can’t imagine the women are partying the day away. Someone’s still doing all the household chores and tending the kids, and I doubt it’s the men. Just saying.

Around Town

While the women may be tucked away at home (hopefully enjoying themselves as much as their counterparts are), we enjoyed visiting several other historical sites around town. 

Ayasuluk Hill

The town is dominated by Ayasuluk Hill, which is itself a part of Ephesus UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s a Mosque dating back to 1375, Isa Bey, and St. John’s Basilica (church), with its beautiful views of the town and interesting ruins. 

Then there’s the Grand Fortress (castle) that sits atop the hill. We had an incredible view of the castle from our hotel room. Day and night it was an amazing site. 

I never get used to looking up and seeing a real castle atop a hill. Surreal.

WINS

Baklava

The Strays

I’ve mentioned the strays in my previous post, but just want to reiterate how heartwarming it is to see how the Turkish care for these animals. 

All stray dogs are captured, vaccinated, neutered/spayed by the municipality, and marked with an ear tag.

If a dog is reported as mean, it is taken off the street and they try to find someone to adopt it. If they cannot, it is euthanized. 

Every stray dog and cat we saw (and there are a ton), looked healthy and fairly well fed. We saw feeding “centers” around town and water out on street corners. 

And 95% of the dogs and cats seemed very sweet and friendly. Most of the cats beg from afar (at least a few feet away), and the dogs never beg (which is strange). 

LOSSES

The Turkish seem to only use the bottom sheet and a lightweight, rough coverlet as bedding, at least in the mid level budget accommodations we inhabit. They did have a gorgeous, heavy, locally made wool blanket though, in case we got chilly in the night. 

Terrible internet in Selcuk. Very tough time putting together a blog, editing photos, downloading anything, etc.  Enough said.

Next Stop: Samos, in the Greek Isles

Would You Please Repeat That?

It’s exciting to be in Bergama, our first stop in Turkey!

Bergama is famous for its Akropolis. Turns out the Turkish people pronounce the word Akropolis, which is also spelled Acropolis, very differently than people from the USA do. So when the Turks say Akropolis, it’s virtually unrecognizable (to us). 

The Akropolis is the main event here in Bergama, so not understanding this one key word in conversation makes basic communication here quite the challenge and often rather comical. 

Our friendly hotel host innocently asks us, “Will you be visiting the Ak&#X@*%??s”  Well, hmmmm…..maybe we will, if we had any idea what you said.  

Eventually we figured out how the Turkish people are pronouncing Akropolis, and a huge weight is lifted (talk about an ah-ha moment), but we still have to contend with the zillion other Turkish words that we cannot even attempt to pronounce or decipher. 

It Should Have Been Easy

It’s just so disappointing because we thought pronouncing Akropolis was a no brainer. Come on, at least that one word should be a given.  Just goes to show us that we really have no clue here in Turkey, and really no business trying to speak Turkish.

And it sure doesn’t help that our hotel is the Akropolis Guest House.  It’s a miracle we even got here.

Bus Terminal from Hell

Speaking of our arrival, things went smoothly until we hit the Bergama Otogan Terminal. It seemed strange that out of a full busload of travelers we were the only two people to exit at the Bergama terminal, after all, it’s a fairly large city of over 100,000 people.  

It turns out that Google has almost 600 reviews of the Bergama bus terminal, with the average rating of 2.8.  Here are just a few of those reviews from the past month, all translated from Turkish. 

Turkish Reviews

One star: “This place is a nightmare” 
Three stars: “We felt like we were in a horror movie. No security, no attendants, strange noises coming from the rooftops.” 
One star: “Unfortunately, it is an abandoned transit route where you land in the creepy evening, like the zombie crossing left from the abandoned town.” 
One star: “Free space to shoot horror movies.” 
Two stars: “It is a place that Allah forgot.”

And lastly, not exactly sure what this one means, but it doesn’t sound good…. 
One star: “The owl has landed, it is playing the ruins, It is falling”

I think you get the idea.

We got off the bus and the bus quickly pulled away and there we stood.  The station is five miles out of town, just off a freeway, in the middle of nowhere.  It was 5 pm on a Saturday and we were literally the only people there.  Not a car in the parking lot.  No other buses.  No people at all.  Nothing. Just a big, cavernous, empty, hollow building.

Let’s Look Inside

Steve opened the door for me into the rather new and modern looking terminal with high ceilings,  and my first thought was that something was wrong here.  It was eerily reminiscent of the twilight zone.  Everything looked clean, quiet, and completely devoid of people.  Like it was a place untouched by man.  

I slowly scanned the entire building from left to right, searching for any sign of life.  Not a soul to be had.  Not a worker or a patron.

The Turkish Flag

We walked through the station and out the other door, to another empty parking lot and a Turkish flag flapping in the wind. All we needed was just one taxi, just one.

The app I had downloaded back home, that was supposed to help in this very situation, BikTasi, came up empty. Sorry, no taxi’s available for you!

Muret, to the Rescue

Muret, the owner of our hotel in Bergama, answered my desperate call (not exaggerating), and spoke passable English.  He was more than happy to send a taxi to rescue us.

Thankfully I didn’t have to pronounce Akropolis during our conversation or we’d probably still be stranded at that Allah-forsaken station.

The Tour Guides

The next day we finished our hike around the Pergamon Akropolis, an ancient hilltop civilization, and had stopped for a cool drink at a cafe before heading back into the town below. 

Two local middle-aged tour guides (men) sitting in the next table started chatting with us and learned we were from the U.S. Shortly, a third tour guide approached and they kissed on the cheeks in greeting. 

To Kiss or not to Kiss

“It’s ok”, kisser #1 explained to us, “This is how we greet each other in Turkey.  We have known each other since childhood” (as if we were concerned by their display of affection). 

Another man at the table (non-kisser) decided to explain further, “It’s ok, they are both married and have children”, followed by their laughter (again, as if we were worried). 

Kisser #1 then said, “Oh, they are from America.  I’m sure they know a lot of gay couples who are married and have children.”  And they all had a good laugh. It was kind of awkward.  I thought to myself, actually I don’t know a lot of gay, married couples that have children….just a few.  🙂  

No Politics

We knew better than to discuss politics or offer any social commentary while in Turkey, so we just chuckled and decided it was time to go. 

The Teleferik

Before our definitely not-gay encounter at the cafe, we took the very modern Teleferik (like an enclosed lift on a cable) up to Pergamon Acropolis. Walking through the typical residential buildings in town and suddenly coming apon the modern Teleferik was a striking contrast.

It was a smooth 5 minute ride up the very steep hillside.   

The Ruins of Pergamon

The ruins of Pergamon, built in the 2nd century BC, are located at the crossroads between Europe and the Middle East, in the Aegean Region of Turkey.  Pergamon was a rich and powerful ancient Greek city high on a hill (Akropolis means “high city”) and became an important cultural, scientific, and political center. Its location is ideal, on a large mesa with sweeping views in all directions.  Not a bad spot to build.  Location, location, location. 

After the Greeks came the Romans, followed by the Ottomans. Every subsequent civilization added and enhanced the city, expanding, beautifying, and ultimately creating a great monument to urban planning and design. 

The really big draws at Pergamon are the remnants of the great temples and dramatic amphitheater.  The library that once housed 200,000 volumes, the Great Altar of Pergamon, a three-terraced gym, and a 10,000 seat theater were all set into the sloping terrain surrounded by an extensive city wall.

Are You OK?

One of the world’s first full-service health clinics, founded in the fourth century BC, was built down the road from the Akropolis.  Over the next centuries, it became one of the best-known healing centers of the ancient world, second in importance only to Epidaurus in Greece and was also the world’s first psychiatric hospital.

Asklepion and the Akropolis were connected by a vaulted road nearly ½ mile long.  At the beginning of the road stood a large arched gate, where potential patients were stopped and assessed before entering. 

The patients were examined by the priest doctors (Asklepiads).  It was important to keep favorable statistics for the clinic, so those about to die or pregnant were turned away (wow!).

Above the gate was the inscription, “The Death is Forbidden to Enter in Asklepeieion as Respect to Gods”.  

Our modern day symbol of medicine, the snake and staff, comes from the Greek God of medicine, Asklepios.  That’s pretty cool.

The Town

Bergama is a typical Turkish town and not particularly touristy. A town where you see a tractor or two pulling through the town carrying their produce for sale. A town where you see the occasional horse drawn buggy.

There are a few hotels, but they aren’t blanketing the place. Mostly just regular Turks going about their business and not many tourists. But we’d occasionally see a tourist couple with that distinctive tourist look (like us).

Here’s the look: khaki shorts, sandals or Birkenstocks, sunglasses, sun hat or visor, carrying small backpack or fanny pack, looking around and sometimes pointing.

The Cat

Bergama is full of stray cats and dogs. But there was one cat in particular, that we called Monty (because she looked so much like a tabby cat we once had, Montgomery- Monty for short).

Unlike in Morocco, where there are also tons of stray cats, the cats (and dogs) in Turkey are well-taken care of by the neighborhood and local restaurants that keep water and food out for them. They generally look well-fed and are so friendly.

So, back to Monty, the tabby cat. Monty was always waiting for us at our favorite restaurant in town, Akasya Park Coffee Kitchen, usually lounging on a soft bench cushion.

The restaurant had all outdoor seating, which works really well if you’re a stray cat, like Monty. Here are a few shots, in sequence, as Monty stealthily tries to figure a way to get to Steve’s curry dinner.

WINS

Turkish Breakfast

What a feast!  It’s like Spanish Tapas, but Turkish and at breakfast.  Lots of tiny plates with a huge variety of delights!  Fruit, eggs, fresh bread, two kinds of olives, coffee (or tea), butter and honey, fresh jams, crepes, fried pastries filled with a mild cheese, local cheese, and more cheese.  And always fresh tomatoes and cucumber slices (see Losses for more).

Fizzy Water

I desperately wanted soda water for our hotel refrigerator. The 2-liter sugar laden soda bottles are easily accessible, but I couldn’t find any plain soda water at the markets. 

At the third market we searched, I finally found a worker who handed us a 6-pack of very tiny, 6.5 oz bottles of “minera” water.  I used my hands to indicate we wanted a larger bottle, but he replied, in broken English, “This is the way the Turkish people drink their mineral water”.  So be it.

LOSSES

Hotel Rules

“No washing of clothes in your room” is listed as the #1 Hotel rule at the Akropolis Guest House.  What?  That’s how I roll. We travel light and rely on hand washing.  And it’s been very hot (high 90’s), and we’ve been very active, so sorry, but I have to wash out at least my underclothes. 

Thankfully my clothes dry very quickly, so it’s like it never happened, right? Shhhh…don’t tell on me.

Tomatoes & Cucumbers

Turkey is the land of fresh tomatoes and cucumbers.  So far, salads mostly consist of a little lettuce with fresh tomatoes and cucumber slices piled high. 

In an ironic twist of fate, the only two vegetables I’m not fond of are tomatoes and cucumbers.  I actually like the taste of tomatoes, it’s just the consistency I can’t deal with (so I like ketchup, tomato sauce, etc).  But cucumbers are not my thing and never have been. Luckily Steve is more than happy to eat my share.

Next Stop: Selcuk