Day 100: Wins, Losses & Lessons

January 1, 2020

One of my favorites! These young monks agreed to pose for me, but one (far left) was very shy. I love the expression on the far right monk’s face!

It’s our hundredth day away from home. It’s gone by fast, and yet also seems like we’ve been gone for ages.  Steve and I have spent a month in Portugal, a week in Myanmar, three weeks in Thailand, and about forty days in Vietnam, so far. As we expected, traveling in Europe versus Asia is like night and day. That’s a big part of why I wanted to explore Asia. 

Pondering independent travel to Asia was kind of scary. The language barrier far surpasses that found in Europe, although we did have some similar challenges in areas of Morocco, where we found only Arabic. I knew SE Asia would push me out of my comfort zone, and it has.  It’s been both challenging and thrilling. 

Wins

  • Chopsticks are no longer intimidating.
  • Traveling with small, 38 liter backpacks versus larger options was the right call. We’re so mobile and packing is quick and easy. And seeing travelers hauling around multiple giant suitcases or enormous backpacks makes me even more appreciative (and maybe a little smug).
  • Getting more and more silvery grey hair around my face (I’ve missed my stylist), but hey, at least grey is “in” now .
  • Food – all of it, but in particular: Asian thick, doughy noodles, spring rolls that melt in your mouth, any meat with spicy lemongrass chili sauce, fresh, warm baguettes (residual effect of the French in Vietnam), the strong Vietnamese coffee, and Portugal’s specialty, the Pasteis de Nata (little custard pies – usually warm out of the oven).
  • So far, we’ve had only a few, easily defeated skirmishes here in Asia with dreaded internal unrest (hoping that holds).
Heart of Darkness Brew- needs a bottle opener!
  • Steve’s dual-duty flip flops (with a built-in bottle opener in the sole – brand: Reef) have come in quite handy. We’re never without a bottle opener and are ready for any drink related emergency.
  • Staying most often in real neighborhoods, where locals work and live and children play, gives us the opportunity to feel immersed in the culture. Being in the thick of things, instead of in the tourist bubble zone, is often more challenging, but definitely worth it for the unique experiences it affords. 
  • Exploring countless man-made wonders including the awe-inspiring Golden pagoda in Yangon, the colorful and ornate Buddhist temples of Thailand, the charming red rooftops and black and white tiled sidewalks of Lisbon, the terraced rice fields of Sapa, and the beautiful lanterns of Hoi An (just to name a few).
Woman chasing a water buffalo out of her garden while her daughter watches from their doorway
  • Getting up at sunrise just in time to watch a woman chase a water buffalo out of her vegetable garden on a steep mountainside in Sapa, Vietnam. She wildly waved her arms, screaming, and throwing the occasional rock with great fortitude.
No filter. No photoshop.
Coimbra, Portugal sunset
  • Having incredibly lucky timing (now and again), and happening upon such events as the Luang Prang Festival in Chiang Mai, Thailand (lantern festival), or walking into Tomar, Portugal, the very day of the annual torch procession of Knights Templar (and then finding that our room overlooks the procession route), or catching one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen in my life because the restaurant we were trying to find was closed.
  • Seeing the magnificence of nature while cycling through enormous karsts (limestone formations) on rural jungle backroads, hanging out with elephants, floating down remote and meandering rivers, lying on the glittering beaches of Portugal, trekking scenic mountains, admiring the green hillsides in Portugal (that reminded me of Tuscany), and exploring vast caves and hidden temples (just to name a few). 
  • Taking pictures is such a passion of mine! Here are a few of my favorites that haven’t been on my blog (I think!).

Losses

  • When the hotel plumbing won’t handle toilet paper and all used tissue must be placed in a waste basket, even for number 2. Kind of gross. And pretty common. And I won’t even mention pit toilets… (oh, I guess I just did).
  • Pretty disheartening that even in Hanoi, Vietnam, where no one has a clue what Thanksgiving is, there are “Black Friday Sales” everywhere, complete with giant signage. Commercialism wins, even in Communist Vietnam.
  • Encountering a barking dog at night on a completely dark alley in a small town in Vietnam while riding a bicycle back to the hotel after dinner.  Thought it was the end for me, and looking ahead, Steve had already passed the dog and left me in the dark (literally). Needless to say, I made it past the dog unscathed, but my heart was pounding out of my chest. No more dark alleys for me.
  • Realizing it’s probably time for that knee replacement surgery when we get home (my poor knees!)
  • No hot water at the Hoi An, Vietnam, homestay for over 36 hours.  Heating our own water and bathing out of a bucket with a scoop.  But no complaints from us because our host family had a much worse week. During our 7 day stay, both their kids, ages 2.5 and 4 months, had to go to the E.R. for high fevers twice AND the hosts sister was in a scooter accident and broke her arm and her leg. At the end of our stay the 2.5 year old had an emergency appendectomy! Hopefully better times ahead for their sweet family.

Lessons

Portugal & Vietnamese trains run on “military time”
  • Train tickets are way cheaper if you buy them at the station vs. online – like half the cost (in Vietnam).
  • Most of the world uses military time, i.e. 8:00 am is 8:00, whereas 1:00 pm is 13:00, and 4:00 pm is 16:00, and so on. It really makes so much sense. It’s way clearer, but I still find myself counting on my fingers to figure out the time. 
  • I’ve realized that using a pit toilet would be WAY easier with a skirt on. It’s the western pants (loose, gauzy capris in my case) that require an extreme case of contortion-ism when toileting here in Asia. 
  • You can never have too many zip lock baggies (I didn’t bring enough).
I was shoved a bunch at Wat Rong Khun
(the White Temple) in Chiang Rai.
It was very crowded with lots of Chinese tour groups.
  • Other nationalities have a FAR different concept of personal space, especially the Chinese. Giving you a little shove is perfectly acceptable, if you are in their way. Cutting in line is also just fine.  It’s nothing personal. They don’t even notice….it’s just how it is, whereas, as an American, if I barely brush against someone I automatically apologize. Funny.
  • Blogging takes tons of time, as in probably 6-10 hours or more per post. This includes writing, editing, proofreading, getting my editor (Steve) to read through, and selecting and formatting pictures. That being said, I’m so pleased when I finish a post and have preserved wonderful memories.
The “Green Bus” in Chiang Mai is actually red
  • The “Green Bus” out of Chiang Mai is actually red. Ok, then. Good to know.
  • The best way to cross the street in a SE Asian city is to tag along, up close and personal, with a local. When they move, you move, and don’t dare look at the oncoming traffic.  Because if you do, you’ll hesitate, and then you’re in big trouble.
  • Travel gives so much. As I travel I gain an amazing perspective on people, our differences and similarities. Getting to know our homestay host and her family, or making a connection with a waiter at a restaurant we’ve frequented, or befriending other travelers from all over the world, is what makes travel so special (and unlike anything else).
A home in Bangkok
  • So many people live with so little. They work hard, have loving families and communities, and are happy.  Traveling with minimal belongings really brings into focus how unimportant the material possessions back home are, and how very important relationships are (I miss my family, friends, and dog).

What’s Ahead

Our rough plan for the future includes fifty more days in Vietnam, then probably on to Cambodia for up to a month, then finishing up in the southern beaches of Thailand, or maybe Bali or Malaysia – or maybe a mixture of these final locations. We might squeeze a visit to Laos in there too.

We’ll head home to Seattle in mid-March to mid-April, just in time for baseball season (to Steve’s delight), and prime time Pacific Northwest spring gardening!

Happy 2020 to all my readers! Thanks for following along on our adventures!

The Lone Americans: Dong Hoi

Posted December 17, 2019

Welcome to Vietnam

Anh carried a Canon EOS 5D Mark IV DSLR camera. It’s a really nice, expensive camera. A beautiful thing, really. 

Dong Hoi waterfront by day
Dong Hoi Waterfront by Night

We were walking along the waterfront in Dong Hoi after dinner one night, not far from our hotel, the Nam Long. Anh seemed eager to say hello, and we were happy to oblige.

Anh had just returned to Dong Hoi, his hometown. He’d been at university in Germany, studying Photography, which explains the nice camera. He was walking with a young woman, maybe a sister.

Dong Hoi Waterfront

Anh was surprised to learn we were from the United States. He said he doesn’t see many Americans visiting Dong Hoi.

We’ve had the same experience as Anh. The majority of foreigners we encounter are from Netherlands, France, and Germany.  We rarely come across Americans.

We shook hands and parted ways. As we walked away, Anh said warmly, “Welcome to Vietnam”.  

The American War

It’s our experience that the Vietnamese people are friendly and welcoming. At times I’ve felt uncomfortable as we’ve traveled in Vietnam when we’ve encountered evidence of the atrocities of the American War (what Americans call the Vietnam War).

All that remains of the Catholic Church, Dong Hoi

The city of Dong Hoi, where we stayed for three nights, was destroyed during the war. Almost everything in the city was annihilated. Only the remnants of a Catholic Church and one water tower stood after the constant bombings. The government plaque in front of what remains of the church states that the church’s destruction is “evidence of war crimes by the American aggressors”.

Propaganda and Facts

Local basket boats used for fishing

There’s a definite mix of government propaganda, as well as facts, in the presentations of the war sites and the museums we’ve visited. But considering 70% of Vietnamese are under the age of 35 and have only been exposed to one side, it’s really quite amazing that they seem to hold no animosity towards Americans.

Even on our day trip to two local caves, the American War came up a couple of times. 

Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park

Farmer plowing the field (with buffalo power),
taken from the bus heading to the National Park

We had arranged for a one day excursion to see the Paradise and Phong Nha caves, two of the largest caves in the world, located in the Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park, about an hour from Dong Hoi. 

Our Tour Group

We were the only Americans, out of the group of eleven, traveling on the “Tour the Caves” tour that day.

View hiking up to the Paradise Cave entrance

There were three Japanese, a solo French woman in her 20’s, a solo 20 something Japanese woman, a German man traveling with a French woman, a solo German woman in her late 50’s (who had had terrible food poisoning the prior day – ugh), and another solo 50 something woman from Holland, who was also staying at our same hotel.  

During a rest break from hiking up to our first cave, Kate (our guide) told Steve and I that she had studied at a University in southern Vietnam to become an English teacher. When she returned to her town near Dong Hoi, happy and ready to begin work as an English teacher, the officials demanded a large bribe before they would hire her. She couldn’t afford the bribe, and ended up working as a guide, which she loves and (she said) pays better. 

Phong Nha Cave

The boats that head upriver to Phong Nha Cave entrance

Phong Nha cave is a wet cave, meaning a river flows through it. To reach the cave we took a boat upriver about thirty minutes.

During the height of the rainy season the water level gets so high that boats cannot pass through the cave.

Thankfully it hadn’t rained much the past week, and we were able to visit the cave, even though the rainy season doesn’t end until the end of the month. Just a couple of weeks earlier and we wouldn’t have been able to enter Phong Nha cave. 

Entrance to Phong Nha Cave (left: far shot, right: close up)

A few hundred feet inside the cave was a beautiful, fine sand beach leading into a huge dry passage. At this point in the cave the ceiling was hundreds of feet high and wide, with an expansive feel.

The boat pulled up onto the beach, where we got off. The sand was powdery and white, and created a steep incline into the dry passage above.

The Underground Hospital

The beach was pristine and peaceful, but this very same beach, and the corresponding dry compartment, were an underground hospital during the American War. It was the safest place to house the wounded.

We walked up the beach and through the passage, admiring the majesty and incredible beauty, while also picturing the horrors of wounded soldiers who laid here, hoping to recover. 

Our boat passed under huge stalactites

Our tour guide, Kate, recounted the war hospital story matter of factly, without any apparent judgement.

The American War is just one chapter in a very long and sordid history of occupation and foreign wars in Vietnam.

Kate also told us that the area’s children are still affected by agent orange, the chemical defoliant used by the Americans during the war.

Ho Chi Minh Trail

River in the cave, part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail

This same cave was a part of the Ho Chi Minh trail, used during the war to transport troops and supplies between north and south Vietnam. We entered the cave in Vietnam, but if you follow the river upstream for about 15 miles, you’d pop out in Laos, west of central Vietnam. 

My Cave’s Bigger than Your Cave

According to our guide, Kate, Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park in Vietnam contains two of the three largest caves in the world.  The number two cave is in Malaysia. Back at the hotel we googled this, and it turns out there are lots of ways to measure and/or rank cave size. So anyway…

For the time being, everyone considers Hang Son Doong, here in Vietnam’s Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, to be the largest cave in the world. It was discovered only a few years ago in 2013.  Son Doong currently stretches across 38.5 million cubic meters (about 1.35 billion cubic feet) — so big, it even has its own jungle inside. To reach Hang Son Doong requires a strenuous four day hike with camping and trekking inside the cave.

Excursions to the cave are tightly regulated and only a few hundred people a year are allowed in. You must book up to a year in advance, be very fit, and have a generous travel budget. It costs three thousand dollars per person for the four day excursion. 

Kate laughed when she told us there’s a cave competition among the Southeast Asian countries. Even though Vietnam has the  #1 and #3 largest caves in the world, they are always looking for more caves to make sure they stay on top.

Paradise Cave

The other cave we visited was Paradise Cave, perhaps the third largest cave in the world (according to Kate). It was discovered by a local man in 2005, and opened to the public in 2010.

The Vietnamese government handsomely rewarded the man, who now lives a very different life than he did prior to his discovery.

Heading down into the cave

We entered the cave and went down, down, down maybe a hundred stairs, descending into the depths of the cave.

The cave is full of countless shapes, forms, and colors, and is beautifully lighted throughout. There were stalagmites (upward growing mound of mineral deposits) and stalactites (downward growing mineral deposits hanging from a cave ceiling) in every size and shape.

Everywhere I looked I was struck by the grandeur of the cave. It truly was awe inspiring.

Just Like Silly-Sand

As I walked through the caves I was reminded of Silly-Sand, a toy I played with as a child. Silly-Sand came with several plastic containers of colored, wet sand, each with a pointed squeeze spout.  I’d squeeze out droplets of wet sand, creating mounding structures.

The “silly-sand” formations

My Silly-Sand structures were very much like what we were seeing throughout the caves, only my structures were built in minutes versus the cave’s thirty to forty million year evolution. 

Sooooo Big

It’s impossible to adequately describe the feeling of being in an enormous cave. We’d move through and under low cave ceilings, only to emerge into absolutely enormous open caverns that looked like a whole neighborhood would fit inside.

Kate said a 40 story building could fit in the largest cavern of the Paradise cave.

Most sections are immense and expansive, while others are small and intimate. And some sections look like you’re on another planet. It’s otherworldly.  

The Chess Challenge

After a wonderful day exploring Phong Nha and Paradise caves, we had a delicious dinner back in Dong Hoi at The Treehugger Cafe.  At the end of our meal, our waitress (who we think was German) came over and asked us for a favor. I assumed she was going to ask us to do a TripAdvisor review, like so many restaurants ask, but instead she pointed to a ten year old Vietnamese boy across the restaurant.

The boy was sitting in front of a chess board at the cafe’s tour desk. She explained that he’s a local boy who frequently comes to the cafe and plays chess with the staff, but today was different. Today he hoped to play against the bearded American. For anyone wondering, Steve did win the game, but admitted the boy was a worthy opponent. 

I don’t know if the local people, like Steve’s young chess buddy, have the means or finances to visit the Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park and the world renowned caves there, but I sure hope so. 

Wins & Losses

Wins

Happening upon five men building a fairly large boat along the shore of the South China Sea. So skilled. 

Boat builders

Watching the Nhật Lệ Bridge’s night lights change color from hot pink to red to blue and green. 

Meeting Ken, the cute puppy owned by our hotel clerk.  According to the hotel clerk,  Vietnamese like to name their dogs American names. I have no idea why and neither did she. Common dog names in Vietnam are Ken, Eric, and Bailey.  

Losses

Walking a very long way to Nha Le beach only to discover the dozens of outdoor restaurants and beach facilities were closed for the “winter season”, with me really, really needing to use a bathroom. Note: It was 75 degrees, apparently Dong Hoi’s winter chill.

Ninh Binh: Karsts and Caves

Posted December 15, 2019

Ninh Binh

Ninh Binh. It’s pronounced just like you’d think: Nin Bin. For some reason that I can’t put my finger on, I really enjoy saying Ninh Binh. It’s just kind of fun to say.

Ninh Binh, Ninh Binh, Ninh Binh.  Yes, it’s got a certain ring to it. 

The Recommendation

Ninh Binh

A fellow traveler, a solo woman from Washington DC, who had been to Vietnam countless times, highly recommended Ninh Binh to Steve one morning during breakfast in our Hanoi hotel. She liked it even better than Halong Bay, she said.  Halong Bay is a famous Vietnam destination that is overflowing with tourists, and for good reason.

The Upgrade

After our days in Sapa, we had reservations for our second overnight train south to Hanoi, with our ultimate destination of Ninh Binh. In Sapa, we learned that the train company had entered our reservation incorrectly, for the 27th of December, rather than the 7th.  It wasn’t a big deal, but they felt badly, so they upgraded us to a private compartment. What a wonderful surprise. 

Morning People Rejoice 

We arrived in Hanoi at 4:30 am, a bit early in anyone’s book. The next train to Ninh Binh was leaving at 6 am, and we planned to be on it. It was a short 2.5 hour ride. 

A Change of Plans

The main drag in Tam Coc

After all my talk of the name Ninh Binh, I must confess that we actually stayed in the town of Tam Coc, about 15 minutes west of Ninh Binh. Sorry Ninh Binh, I don’t want to hurt your feelings, but I’d read that Tam Coc was closer to all the sites we’d want to see, and very bicycle friendly. So, Tam Coc it was. 

Karsts

Karsts as seen from Mua Cave viewpoint, Tam Coc

The big draw in the Tam Coc area are the ancient limestone formations that suddenly jet up, jagged and beautiful, out of the otherwise completely flat terrain (karsts). Many call the area the Halong Bay of the land. I wasn’t sure if it would seem repetitive, after visiting Halong and Bai Tu Long Bays a couple of weeks ago, but it wasn’t. Not at all. 

Bicycles for Rent

Our hotel rents bikes for a couple of bucks a day. The flat terrain is ideal for bicycling, not to mention there is very little traffic on the one main road through town.

The first day Steve’s bike had a beige, hard plastic child seat secured right behind his seat. I thought it was quite funny.

The childless riders

Then, the second day, both our bikes were so equipped. We looked like two foreigners who had somehow misplaced our children, riding along with empty child seats. 

I’m Only Joking

Our hotel proprietor, who was forever grinning, happily shook his head up and down in agreement as I made a joke that we could pick up a cute kid or two as we bicycled through town. It’s probably not a great idea to joke with someone who has limited understanding of what you’re saying. As we departed for our ride, I was wondering if he would quickly run and alert the authorities about what I’d just said. 

New Territory 

Steve looking down the path

All was well on our ride, and we weren’t followed. The weather was perfect, almost 70 degrees and sunny.

Five minutes out of town and we had the paths all to ourselves. We peddled out to two pagodas. There were wide open vistas broken up by karsts, long paths into rural areas, and dense jungle too.

We came to a picturesque, relaxing river, and sat on a park bench admiring the view. I’m not sure if that river really exists though, because it didn’t show up on google maps. Regardless of the fact that it wasn’t on google maps, the river was busy with hundreds of boats full of tourists.

The Mystery River

The unusual, and infinitely interesting thing about the boats floating by is that the rowers row using their legs. Honestly, it looks like an advanced yoga move. I never could have imagined that leg/foot rowing was a thing, but they all do it, and only on that one, uncharted river. 

The Scam

Tam Coc Boat Trip

We decided to skip the leg rower boats (officially called the Tam Coc boat trip), even though the starting point was very close to our hotel and they row with their legs (which is pretty cool). Apparently the Tam Coc boat trip has had numerous incidents where the rower, once far into the countryside, pulls over and refuses to continue without a tip. We agreed that could be unpleasant and potentially very awkward, so instead opted for the Trang An boat ride. 

Trang An Boat Ride

The Trang An complex is impressive. You immediately see that it’s built for high volume tourism. The railings, that go on and on, are twisted into the familiar back and forth configuration to handle the throngs, like Disneyland. 

Like a Ghost Town

We had been advised to arrive early to avoid the crowds. We arrived just before 8 am.

The rows and rows of crowd control railings sat empty. The large complex was like a ghost town, to our great delight.

I guess being slightly off-season helped keep the tourist count low. 

Boat #952

The rower women

All the rowers were women. They all wore the same turquoise jacket and sun hat, the round Vietnamese hat that comes to a point.

There were hundreds, maybe even a thousand, empty boats lined along the dock, waiting for customers to fill them.

Typically they load four people into each boat, but it was early and only one man sat waiting, Adam from Astoria, Oregon, (actually Warrenton). We were happy to complete a boat, with only the three of us, as we took our seats with Adam and boarded boat #952. 

Heavenly

As we left the dock we had the river all to ourselves. The glassy, clear, pristine water quietly and gently parted as we glided upriver, with a view of enormous Karsts all around us. It was so peaceful that we all whispered, as if we were somewhere spiritual and needed to be reverent. 

Watch Out: Cave Ahead

Our journey that morning included rowing through nine caves. We’d have to duck our heads, or scrunch to one side or the other, to avoid our body colliding with the cave entrance or a stalactite protruding from the cave ceiling.

There was never a word of warning, or any utterance really, from our rower. It could be quite dangerous for someone not paying close attention, like someone taking video or snapping pictures, but who would be silly enough to do that? (see pictures attached). 

The Review 

I had read a boat trip tour review from a woman who said a spider dropped down on her head from the top of the cave, and she almost upended the boat. I’m not particularly fond of spiders (understatement), so I wish I’d never read that, but all was well, and the only thing that dropped from the cave ceiling was an occasional water droplet. 

Breathe Deep, Mask Recommended

Netherlands friends (from our hotel) snapped this picture of us on the river

The serenity and quiet beauty of our 3 hours on the river was breathtaking.

Speaking of breath, there was some haze, which Adam, our boat-mate, said was air pollution that blows down from China.

It’s true that all over Vietnam we see lots of smog, even up in the mountains of Sapa. Many, many locals wear face masks to protect themselves as best they can. 

Early Arrival for the Win

On our way back towards the dock we could see that the crowds had started increasing. Many boats were passing us, just starting out on their tour. Getting to Trang An early was perfect. 

During prime season I’d recommend getting to Trang An right when they open, at 7:00 am. The views remain spectacular no matter the number of boats or tourists, but the quiet and solitude of being the only boat on the river (for much of our tour), made it that much more special. 

Wins & Losses

Wins

While eating dinner at an outdoor restaurant, we watched as the Vietnamese football team won their game against Indonesia, 3-0.  We didn’t know until it was over that they were playing for the gold in the SE Asia games! We heard a lot of locals honking horns, shooting fireworks, and celebrating into the night. 

Having an awesome hotel owner, who was happy to make our travel arrangements, as needed, throughout our stay. We typically muddle through on our own, but it sure was relaxing to have the assist. 

Losses

Our lovely hotel bungalows, Tam Hoc Tropical Homestay

Enduring the very loud construction just a few feet away from our hotel that started at 7:30 am, including weekends.  

Deciding to leave my loyal and trusty, albeit fake, North Face coat behind for the hotel owner since (fingers crossed) I won’t be needing it the rest of our trip. 

Trekking & Other Sapa Highlights

Posted December 11, 2019

The Overnight Train

We boarded the overnight train heading to Sapa, Northern Vietnam, at 9:35 pm at the Hanoi train station. Our tickets read, “Pumpkin car, berths 16 and 18”. 

Our sleeper cabin had four beds, two upper bunks, and two lower bunks. The blankets and pillow cases were embroidered with orange pumpkins (since we were in the Pumpkin car). The beds were split by a narrow “corridor” about 1.5 feet wide, which makes any kind of maneuvering, with four people and all their luggage, quite difficult.

With such tight quarters, you hope and pray that you get roommates that,  #1) speak at least some English, #2) do not snore or make unseemly noises while sleeping, and #3) are not thieves or unsavory types. And it doesn’t hurt if they are friendly and don’t like to stay up too late.

Pierre & Starts with an “N”

Lucky for us our roomies were a nice, twenty-something couple from Paris.  We started chatting and introduced ourselves. The man had an easy, quintessentially French and easy to remember name – Pierre.  The woman, on the other hand, had a name that sounded very french and unintelligible (to me), that started with an “N”. I asked her to repeat it, and shook my head in thanks, but still had no idea how to pronounce or remember it, let alone use it later. 

No worries, there were so few of us packed into such a tight space that it was easy to get her attention, if needed, even without using her name. 

Arriving in Lao Cai

My night had been filled with rocking and swaying, train whistles blowing, really strange dreams that I was on a train (whaaaat?), and occasional blinding lights peaking through the swaying curtains. The train was due in to Lao Cai at 5:30 am.  

Lao Cai is a town of about 98,000 people on the Chinese border, in the far north of Vietnam. The town was completely destroyed in 1979 when the Chinese invaded, and has since been rebuilt. It’s thriving now, mostly due to trade with China. 

Coffee Anyone?

I set my alarm for 5:10 am. A woman that worked on the train came down the corridor, banging on everyone’s compartment door, yelling something in Vietnamese that I can only surmise was “Get the hell up!”.

A minute later she came down the aisle again, asking for coffee orders. I wasn’t really awake enough, or organized enough, to add holding a cup of coffee to my morning challenges. I still had to pack up, get my shoes on, and try to fix my bed hair.  Stepping off the train into the early morning darkness, the frigid air was a quick slap in the face. Turns out there was no need for that coffee after all. I was now quite wide awake, thank you very much.

Lao Cai was around 50 degrees, which seemed very cold after all our hot weather travels. Little did I know that Sapa, which was still 20 miles away and at a much higher elevation, would be even colder.  

Sapa is Cold

Sapa on a clear day

Cold is one thing, but cold with high humidity is quite another.  The day we arrived Sapa had both in spades. Sapa sits at 5400 feet elevation.  It’s like the top of Stevens Pass ski resort back home in Washington State.

Unfortunately for me, I lost my down, packable coat on a plane about a month ago.  My only protection from the cold was a long sleeve shirt with a thin, t-shirt weight hoodie, along with my only pair of pants and wool socks with Keen sandals. 

View from our room

After checking into our hotel room (that had a stunning, sweeping view of the mountains) we walked around town. It was in the low 40’s with 89% humidity and an icy breeze. I was freezing, freezing, freezing. 

Sapa is fairly small and walkable, albeit quite hilly.  It has a population of about 9,000. You can walk from one end to the other in 20-25 minutes. 

Hmong & Red Dao

Walking around Sapa, one of the first things you notice is the ethnic women from the surrounding hill villages, mainly the Hmong and Red Dao, working the streets to sell their handicrafts.

The Hmong wear brightly colored plaid scarves on their heads for warmth.

The Red Dao wear a red hat or scarf , depending on what village they are from.  The red scarf resembles a traditional western Santa hat, which seemed appropriate for this time of year. Ho ho.

The Hard Sell

Two Hmong women across the street are
waiting for us to finish our coffee

I’d read about how aggressive the village women are when trying to make a sale, but I was still unprepared for the lengths they would go to. Firstly, they target tourists who are innocently in their hotel or eating in a restaurant. An outdoor table is the worst because you’re easy to spot and track.

You can see them waiting. They make eye contact and smile a knowing smile. They know you cannot get away. As soon as you come out onto the street, they latch on to you and won’t let go.  They try to make friends with you, then try to reel you in.

Having some experience with this in Morocco, Mexico and Thailand, I knew what to do, and I immediately said a firm and polite “No thank you”.  I don’t give them my name, or answer where I’m from, or answer any other of their questions. And I definitely don’t make eye contact.

No Thanks

Even though I’d say “No Thanks”, repeatedly, without wavering, they would follow me for a full block or two or three through the streets of Sapa.

“Maybe later?” they ask.  “No”, I’d say. “Maybe tomorrow?” they’d ask. “No”, I’d say. “You bought from her, you buy from me” they’d say, even though I hadn’t bought from anyone prior. Eventually I’d break free of the selling machine disguised as a Hmong villager. Done with me, the saleswoman would immediately transfer over and latch on to Steve, her next target. It didn’t matter that I was standing a few inches in front of Steve, he was fresh meat.

Our street in Sapa
Center of Sapa

I kept up my pace, forging ahead, but was carefully listening to the conversation behind me. In desperation I heard Steve reply “Ok” to the “Maybe tomorrow?” plea. But I knew we were in trouble when he also said “Ok” to her next question, “You promise?”

The very next day that same woman recognized us and came over pleading and begging and reminding Steve of his “promise”. 

We didn’t cave-in, but it took vigilance and a lot of resolve. Those ladies are tough. By our fourth day in town it became like a game for me and some of the ladies and I would recognize each other and smile or laugh.

Finally on day four, I will admit, I broke down and bought a batik scarf from one of my Hmong friends, so I guess all her work wasn’t for nothing after all.

Lunch and the Big Freeze

We stopped for lunch at an open air restaurant. Before taking a seat, we picked out our selections from the huge variety of skewers on the street-side table. The table was full of skewers packed with meats and vegetables of all kinds, some of which we even recognized. Our choices were immediately placed on the adjacent, red hot grill, then brought to our table when crispy and cooked through. 

“North Face” to the Rescue

This restaurant, like many in Vietnam, had a large sliding garage type door as its storefront. This open-air set up is optimal in the heat and humidity found in most of Vietnam, but in Sapa, in December, it was less than ideal. As we sat and ate, the cold damp air seeped into my bones. It was more than enough to convince me that drastic measures were called for.  Right after lunch we made a bee-line to one of a dozen of shops in town that featured fake North Face products. 

I was determined to get warm.  After heavy negotiations, I walked out of the store with a navy blue down “North Face” coat and hot pink “North Face” mittens. Total bill, about $17.  Not bad. The coat’s zipper is a bit shoddy, and the velcro is flimsy, but it will serve its purpose well, and I only need it to work for four days.

Further Notes on the Cold

As I’ve already mentioned, Sapa is high in the mountains, so it’s not surprising that it’s cold. What is surprising is that nothing in town is heated except the individual hotel rooms. And I mean nothing. The hotel lobby, the hotel buffet breakfast room, the restaurants (even ones with four walls and a closing door), and the shops – all have no heat.  A few restaurants have a free-standing bbq pit in among the tables, which would be quite concerning if the rooms were not so drafty (not air tight).

Up the street from our hotel

So every time we’d leave our hotel room, even to go downstairs for our morning breakfast buffet, we have to bundle up like we’re heading out on an arctic expedition. 

Eating dinner, fully bundled up in a down coat, neck scarf, warm hat, and mittens while sitting inside a restaurant is commonplace. It’s like camping all the time. It sure does make the warm hotel room a welcome haven. 

I’m Ready

Now that I had the essentials to keep warm, I was set for our trek in the mountains. Unlike me, Steve had kept tabs on his jacket. He planned on adding an additional layer, wearing my brightly colored ethnic-style Elephant shirt (with fringe all along the bottom) from our Thai excursion. 

Sapa Sisters

We had pre-booked a two day trek to hike to three tiny, ethnic villages in the mountainous region of Vietnam through Sapa Sisters. We’d be staying overnight at a beautiful guesthouse high on a mountainside, “Zao’s House”.  

We’d heard about Sapa Sisters from fellow Halong Bay boat-mates, two friends who had recently graduated with their doctorates from Stanford. They raved about the trekking company. 

Female Owned & Operated

Sapa Sisters are Hmong trekking guides from Mung Hoa Valley, near the town of Sapa. They are the only female and Hmong owned trekking company in Sapa and are proud to operate a business that ensures all of their guides a fair salary and opportunities to grow in the community.  They’ve been able to create a business that supports themselves and their families, and ensures long term employment and security.

We were thrilled to support such a progressive company empowering women here in northern Vietnam. 

Our Guide, Ru

Our guide Ru

We met Ru, our trekking guide, the next morning at 8:45 am at the Sapa Sisters office, about a two minute walk from our hotel. Ru was very petite, as most Hmong are. She had long, dark, straight hair, tied back into a pony tail, and wore the traditional brightly colored plaid scarf tied on her head, as seen on Hmong women all over town.

Ru showing Steve rice she just picked

Ru has an outgoing personality and exudes a solid confidence in her abilities as a trekking guide, having lived in the mountains near Sapa her entire life. She’s 22 years old, was married at age 17 (on the older side for women in her village, where most girls marry by age 15), and has three daughters, ages 5, 3, and 1.5.  Her husband is a farmer and stays home to take care of “the babies” while Ru works as a guide three to four days a week.  

Learning about Ru’s life growing up in a Hmong village, about an hour away from Sapa by motorbike, helped make our trek even more special and memorable.  

The Ethnic Minorities Museum

We’d gone to Sapa Culture Museum the day before our trek to learn about the ethnic minorities that live in villages around Sapa. 

It was shocking to learn that Hmong men, still to this day, have the option of kidnapping their prospective bride, often during Tet (New Years) celebrations. The man gathers a few friends and they ambush the woman, taking her by force and detaining her for three days. The museum’s information said that during the three days the woman is wined and dined (so to speak), with the intention of convincing her to agree to the marriage at the end of her captivity. 

Kidnapped

I was hoping that the word “kidnapping” was a bad translation, and it wasn’t as bad as it sounded. I hoped it was actually a cultural practice where the girl was “in on it” and it was all in good fun. 

But when talking to Ru about bride kidnappings, she said the kidnapped woman has no choice and must agree to marry her kidnapper at the end of the three days.  She said all girls live in great fear during Tet, when most kidnappings occur. 

Red Dao woman in Ta Van village

I can’t imagine living in a patriarchal culture where being kidnapped and forced to marry is an accepted practice. It’s horrific to come face to face with someone who has lived a life under these circumstances, and experienced this fear first hand. 

Thankfully Ru’s story was different. Not all men kidnap. Many parents of boys will decide who is a good marriage match, with or without input from their son, and solicit a meeting with a girls parents to ask for their consent. Ru knew and liked the boy who she married, whose parents made arrangements with her parents. She had the prerogative to say yes or no. Ru is happy in her marriage. She’s one of the lucky ones. 

The Trek

Besides marrying by choice, Ru is fortunate to have a husband that supports her working as a guide. She’s a great guide, and we were lucky to have her. 

Day #1 when the sun broke through the clouds

Trekking sounds so athletic and impressive (to me). I’d like to say we trekked for six or eight hours each day, through rough terrain, but we didn’t. In actuality, we did a modified-trek, due to my bad knees. Our trek was private, with just Ru, Steve, and I, so we could customize it to best meet our needs. We chose a combo of trekking and car-assist. We trekked about 3 hours each day, on mostly flat trails and dirt roads.

Our “bridge” over the river

Day one we had to cross a river. The bridge was out, so we had to make due. We crossed the river by climbing over large and slippery rocks, then carefully walked side-step on unsecured long metal planks with raised edges. The planks weren’t stable and shifted under our feet. It was difficult.

Thankfully two Hmong women had latched on to us (for our entire day one trek), because without their help I don’t think I would have made it safely over the river. They earned the tip we gave them at the end of the day.

We then trekked through the village of  Lao Chai and on to Ta Van, then hoofed it up an incredibly steep path for another 20 minutes to reach our homestay, Zao’s house.

Zao’s House

The view from the porch was breathtaking

Zao is one of Sapa Sisters founders, who now lives in a house owned by the company with her husband and three kids, hosting homestays for Sapa Sister trekkers almost every night.

The night we spent at Zao’s House there were 21 trekkers that arrived throughout the afternoon.  We all had dinner together and we made some fast friends – Vicki and Joe from Vancouver, Canada (but Joe is originally from the UK), Eunice from Los Angeles (but currently living in NYC), Lanie from Austria, and a family of four from Switzerland that are traveling for a year (who we may meet up with in Hoi An over Xmas). 

Sunrise on the porch

The second morning I woke early and caught a glorious sunrise. After a yummy communal breakfast we headed out for trekking, day #2. We trekked back down to the village of Ta Van, then on to Giang Tachai, before getting a ride back to Sapa.

Trekking Views

On both days we passed by many buffalo, small village schools, local handicraft stores, locals homes, zillions of beautifully kept family vegetable gardens, and terraced rice fields that were recently harvested. 

The scenery was simply spectacular. Breathtaking. Pictures just can’t do it justice. 

The Kids

Our last day in town we spent the day in the sunshine in Sapa’s main square. It was the first day that we didn’t have to bundle up, and it was lovely.

It was a Saturday, so there was lots of traffic and people in town. Sapa is a popular weekend destination for the Vietnamese.

There were lots of children “on display” for tourists (I presume), all dressed up in their ethnic traditional finest clothes.

Many people were paying to take posed pictures with the kids, but I preferred to catch the candid shots, when they weren’t posing with forced smiles, and able to just be themselves.

Wins & Losses

Wins

  • Chatting with a Red Dao (ethnic minority) woman on a park bench. Learning about her children and grandchildren, and her weekly seven hour walk into Sapa to sell her wares.
  • Having the good fortune (and good timing) to catch a bride & groom getting their professional wedding photos taken in traditional ethnic Red Dao wedding clothes, and sneaking some pictures!
  • Getting two out of three sunny days while in Sapa in December!

Losses

  • Flailing and spinning around trying to avoid an enormous bee (the size of a hummingbird) that was determined to land on my face on trekking day #2, ultimately falling on my bum in a muddy ditch – but at least I came out of it unscathed!