October 2019 -

To-Do’s in Bangkok

(By No Means a Comprehensive List)

Posted October 31, 2019

Walk Around a Bit

We typically do a ton of walking when we’re in a new city. The guidebooks say that Bangkok isn’t very pedestrian friendly, but I found that besides crossing the street (see “The Game Changer” post), you can and should walk around a bit while here.

Framed ornate pictures of the King next
to and over the street

Just a couple of minutes from our guesthouse, we came across a stunning park with manicured gardens, bright flowers, and amazing structures.

The major streets typically have a center island with a gigantic, ornately framed picture of the King, along with beautiful flower beds that are in perfect condition.

It’s funny to watch as dozens of motorcycles weave their way through thick traffic at every red light so they can gain that little edge, then take off as quickly as possible at the green.

Google Map It

When planning our day, we google map our planned destination and, if google says it’s under a 20 minute walk, we go for it. The shorter the distance the better, because it is consistently very hot and humid.

Unfortunately, more often than I’d like, we end up walking longer than planned, and I end up a sweaty, dragging mess of a tourist.

Thankfully, if this happens, there’s always an air-conditioned taxi or a open-air tuk tuk ride with our name on it just around the corner.

Explore the Klongs

Take a local river taxi and explore the Klongs (canals) that meander through the city. It’s a little tricky to find where to board the boats. What worked for us was to follow along a canal until we saw stairs going down to the water level. At every set of stairs to a pier there was a bustle of activity with lots of locals going up and down. Once we knew what to look for, it was much easier to find a pier.

There are lots of options to explore the Klongs. The river taxi, used by locals, costs between 9 and 19 baht depending on the distance (.30 cents to .49 cents), but barely stops at each pier. Customers must have their head “in the game” and leap on and off as the taxi slows at each pier. You snooze, you lose.

River Taxi Express

We chose the River Taxi Express service, which is geared more to tourists. It costs significantly more (around $6), but allows easier on and off loading. One price and we had unlimited hop-on and hop-off up and down one canal for the entire day. Now that we know how it all works, I think the regular river taxi would have worked just fine for us. Whichever you choose, just get out on a canal for a fascinating look at Thai life.

Visit Wats

Our first full day in Bangkok we visited the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun. These are the three big tourist sites in Bangkok, the “must-see” attractions.

All the sites are sprawling complexes, that include the Wat (temple), and Stupas (dome-shaped structures erected as Buddhist shrines), and other assorted buildings. The Grand Palace takes the prize for biggest, but not necessarily best. Each temple is unique and absolutely worth visiting.

The Grand Palace

The Grand Palace is the one attraction that absolutely everyone goes to (or so it seems). It is incredibly crowded. It opens at 8:30 am, and it seems the best bet to avoid crowds is to arrive as close to opening as possible.

Wat Pho

Wat Pho’s main feature is a reclining Buddha built by Rama III in 1832. The Buddha is 150 feet long and 50 feet high, covered in gold leaf. To say it’s an impressive sight is an understatement. But don’t just go to see this Buddha, there is a huge complex full of incredible sites.

Head of reclining Buddha at Wat Pho
Feet end

Wat Arun

Wat Arun is across the river from the other two sites, so Kobkul, our guesthouse host, told us to take the river taxi. She explained where to catch the river taxi, but neither Steve nor I could remember the name of the Pier.

4 Baht to Cross the River
Ferry across the river with picture of the King

Somehow lady luck was on our side and we walked from Wat Pho for about 20 hot and sweaty minutes in the general direction of where we thought the Pier was. We arrived at the correct Pier, and were thrilled (to stop walking in the heat). We paid the 4 baht each (about .13 cents) and rode across the river.

Eat Street Food

The Metro

Steve immediately pointed out the “Bang Sue”
metro stop. Geez.

Kobkul, our Thai host, told us the best street food in Bangkok is found in Chinatown. The street vendors start at 8 pm. Kobkul recommended we take the metro system, since Chinatown is pretty far from the house. I was curious to see what the metro was like, since all the above ground traffic is a bit chaotic and uncontrolled. To my surprise, the metro is very modern, sleek, orderly, and clean. Our tickets cost 28 baht, or .92 cents, each way. It was a fast, comfortable, and air-conditioned way to travel under the city.

The Throngs

Coming out of the Metro, we walked a ways, not sure which way to go. Finally we turned a corner and we were suddenly in the midst of a throng of people and street vendors. So much activity, flashing lights, and noise. Thousands of people were jammed on both sides of the street. People edged along as best they could, squeezed between the food vendors, each other, and the cars. We joined the crowds and walked along, a bit overwhelmed by all the people and food choices.

Incredible, mouth-watering aromas wafted over us, changing every 10 steps or so. Every vendor had their own kitchen set up and was cranking out their specialty to the waiting crowds. Many popular vendors had long lines of waiting fans. Vendors cooked noodles and stir-fries in large, blackened woks heated by big gas-fed flames. Satay skewers sizzled on large BBQ’s. Dipping sauces bubbled on the stove. Everywhere I looked the vendors were cooking and prepping.

Mouthwatering

Admittedly, there was a large percentage of food that we just couldn’t identify. We weren’t even sure if some foods were desserts or savory, so we tended to stick with what is familiar, pot stickers and a noodle dish. The pot stickers were the best ever. Crunchy and fried, but not greasy, with a very subtle hint of sweetness to the dough. And the noodle dish, with the thick, chewy noodles and spicy garlic sauce was spot on. Wow, so good.

Absorb the Local Flavor

We stayed four nights in a Thai guesthouse, with a local, in a typical Bangkok neighborhood. We had an authentic experience that we wouldn’t have had in a hotel. And we saved a ton of money too. We spent $28 a night, which included a wonderful Thai breakfast, tons of tips from our host, and some special and unexpected treats, like lotus flower seeds Kobkul found especially for us.

Our choice probably isn’t right for everyone, but I loved it.

Meeting Kobkul

It was such a pleasure getting to know Kobkul, our guesthouse owner. She’s lived in this home for four years, but in the neighborhood for forty. Her house, named “Air Raid Shelter 3” on the Airbnb website, is located at 74 Machachai Road, just across the street from a famous Pad Thai restaurant, Thipsamai (that is mentioned in every guidebook, but really is nothing special).

Breakfast at the Guesthouse

Breakfast is served each morning at 8:30 am down in Kobkul’s cafe on the ground level. It’s not what I would typically call a cafe, it’s more like a coffee stop. She has a nice espresso maker and refrigerated display case full of drinks, that faces out to the street front. She serves coffee and cold drinks to folks passing by.

For our breakfast, we sit at one of the two tiny round wooden tables she has for her guests. There’s only one proper size chair, which I seem to always grab first. Steve sits on a tiny stool to my left (sorry, dude).

Kobkul sets two Bento boxes down on the table in front of us, one each. Our meal consists of hot rice (white or stir-fry), a bit of meat (chicken or pork), sometimes some cucumbers or spices, and some kind of fruit or muffin for dessert. And every day there’s a tiny baggie filled with a delectable sauce, sometimes spicy, sometimes sweet. It’s fun opening your little baggie to see what sauce you have that morning. Kobkul makes great coffee (I get mine iced because it’s so dang hot out), and often provides something small and sweet to finish out the meal.

Just Eat It

Dessert: Strange fruit wrapped in coconut
and little muffins cooked in banana leaf

To be honest, we didn’t always know what Kobkul served us. One morning there was a dark blob of something in and among my rice, meat, and sauce, and I had no idea what it was. It was a chocolate brown color and had the consistency of a solid, non-shiny, chunk of jello.

I tried a couple of small bites. It didn’t have much flavor. I asked Kobkul what it was. She kind of laughed nervously and said I may not like it. She said it was from a chicken, then she pointed up and down to her inner forearm. I have no idea what she was trying to tell me, and I have to say I felt really uncomfortable about the brown blob after that. I’ve done an extensive google search to try to figure it out, to no avail. Suffice to say that Steve finished the brown blob for me so I didn’t offend Kobkul. Thanks, Steve, I owe you one.

Update: After consulting with my sister-in-law, Ina, who is Indonesian, it turns out the congealed chocolate brown mass was chicken blood. Hmmmm…so glad I didn’t finish that up. So interesting how different foods are customary in different cultures.

The Guesthouse Shower

The guesthouse bathroom was a first for us, an “all-in-one” set-up. An avocado green toilet and matching sink, along with bright green tiles and plastic green flooring, make up the small, square bathroom. What makes the bathroom unique (to us), was that the shower head was mounted on the wall above the toilet, a little to the left.

A Wet Room

When you shut the door, the entire room became the shower. It’s called a “wet room”. When showering, everything inside the bathroom gets soaked including the toilet, walls, and sink.

We shared the bathroom with two nice 20-something women from France, who were traveling in SE Asia for two months. I never knew when I was going to encounter a sopping wet bathroom, and sit on a drenched toilet (and I’m sure they felt the same way). It really wasn’t a problem once I got used to the idea – it was just water, after all.

Take Precautions

Speaking of water everywhere, there really should be a warning sign posted in bathrooms like this (for us novices), reminding us to set the toilet paper, the towel, and eyeglasses (if applicable) outside the shower before turning on the water. I only soaked one toilet paper roll that one time (during a shower), I promise.

The Mantra

Perhaps a delicate bathroom topic, but worth mentioning, is that we can’t flush TP down the toilet. I’ve encountered this same issue in Mexico a few times. The plumbing just can’t handle the paper, so it is what it is.

Every time I sat on the pot I’d repeat my mantra, “Don’t put TP in the toilet, don’t put TP in the toilet, don’t put TP in the toilet”, until my business was complete and the TP was securely in the garbage bin provided.

Steve Wins

I only had to fish out the TP twice in 4 days, when apparently my mind wandered from my mantra. Steve only had to fish out the TP once. Steve wins.

Spicy Food: Special Note

Do not touch your face after sprinkling hot chili on your food using bare fingers. It’s a bad idea, unless you like having a burning, stinging face for about 30 minutes.

The Game Changer

Posted October 28, 2019

Crossing the Street

Trying not to get hit by a car, motorcycle, moped, tuk-tuk, or bicycle is a full time job here in Bangkok. You may think I’m kidding, but I’m not.

I’ve read about how crazy the traffic is in Bangkok, and I thought I was prepared, but I wasn’t. There are a zillion vehicles of varying sizes and speeds, all going as fast as they possibly can, with multi-lane streets, some up to 8 lanes across.

The Other Side

But the real clincher, the game changer, is that the Thais drive on the other side of the road. When I first realized this, I thought it was kind of cool. After all, I’d never spent time in a country where they drive on the left. What a novelty.

Unfortunately, I had no idea how much this would personally impact me, and so soon too. But when you plunk two sleep deprived Americans down in Bangkok, who are are carrying fairly large backpacks, then add in this seemingly minor fact of traffic going the opposite direction, it’s a potential recipe for disaster.

The Arrival

Let me explain. We arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok, got some baht (Thai money), and found a taxi (no small feat).

After a 50 minute drive, the taxi driver pulled up and said something in Thai to our blank, unregistering faces. Thankfully he then motioned for us to get out of the car on the sidewalk side. Got it. We can do that.

Our Airbnb Guesthouse.
Cafe on the bottom, we’re one floor up.

The taxi driver drove away. We stood, surveying the situation. Stepping out of the quiet, air conditioned taxi into the street was jarring. Intense heat and humidity rudely hit us in the face, while chaotic commotion, honking, loud engine backfires, and motorcycle engines winding came from every direction. It was a little disorienting, to say the least.

Four Lanes

We were merely four lanes of traffic away from our Airbnb, just across the street. There was no crosswalk or signal in sight. Looking to our left, the two lanes of traffic closest to us were backed up solid to where we were standing. We took another quick glance at the street and the entire four lanes appeared to be clear, so we went for it.

The Crossing

We approached the center line in the street and hung back for a quick moment, checking to our right, verifying one last time that it was clear to cross. It was completely clear, so we started our dash across the last two lanes.

It looked like our street crossing would be successful and without incident. No biggie, we got this.

We were just entering the third lane of traffic when suddenly, out of the corner of my eye, there was fast movement to my left. I hadn’t even looked left. All my life experience told me that cars only come from the right. Big mistake.

The Finale

I now know the true meaning of the phrase “Like a Deer Caught in the Headlights”. All I could think of was, “We’re F*&cked”. I froze. I think it was only a second, but it is indelibly seared in my mind. That moment of sheer panic and disbelief, as a fast moving taxi, the lead in a pack of vehicles, was bearing down on us. It was dangerously close to hitting us.

Proverbial “Deer Caught
in the Headlights”

I’m not even sure what Steve was doing at that moment. It was every man for himself.

Somehow my brain kicked back into gear, the taxi (must have) slowed, and we made it to the far sidewalk.

Welcome to Bangkok.

Wins & Losses

Wins

> Enlisting Kobkul, our Airbnb hostess, to flag down a taxi and insist they use the meter. We get the uninflated taxi price when she’s involved.

> Having a sweet, older Thai man give us unsolicited advice on how to cross the busy street. Motioning us to follow along with him, he walked us across the intersection. He had a running dialogue going in Thai. We just smiled and shook our heads, “Yes”. He motioned how to stop the fast moving vehicles by authoritatively putting an arm up, as in “STOP”, while walking directly out into the fast moving traffic.

> Knowing from travels in other countries, that the very best way to cross a busy street is to shadow a local. If a local start crossing, we follow along, a step or two back in their wake. Works great.

> Getting the street crossing drill down-pat.

On a busy night in Chinatown, I took on a street jam-packed with cars, attempting to cross. Cars were crawling along, barely moving.

It was apparent that an approaching car wasn’t going to stop for me, but I stepped forward without hesitation, with my hand extended (in the STOP position), like I owned the road. The bumper came within a few inches of my thigh before coming to a stop. I kept moving. A woman behind me exclaimed an admiring, “Whoa”.

I hadn’t realized that a couple (of tourists) were following in our wake. I guess I earned that “Whoa”.

Losses

> Consistently paying double for a taxi or tuk tuk on the return ride “home” from our adventures around town (no Kobkul to help us). That being said, double of 40 baht ($1.10 USD) isn’t such a hardship.

Notes from Porto

Posted October 23, 2019

Train to the Douro Valley

If you’re deciding whether or not to head up to the Douro Valley from Porto, let me clear things up for you. Do it. Especially if it’s a sunny day.

We elected to take the train up. It’s a two hour ride each way and $20 euros round-trip. Be sure to sit on the right side of the train, window seat preferably. You’ll catch spectacular views of the famously terraced grape vine covered hillsides and lovely, grand estates.

There are other options to get up to the valley including all kinds of boat excursions that slowly cruise up the river and take all day (like 7 hours). I’m sure they are quite pricey, but, if you have the time and don’t mind the cost, I’m sure it would be lovely.

Cobblestone boardwalk along the Douro Riber

Pinhao, which means pine nut in Portuguese, was our destination in the Douro. I’ve never seen such a tranquil and picturesque riverside village.

We had the boardwalk along the river almost completely to ourselves. It looked like a few boat tours had docked, but the groups must have been hauled off somewhere else, probably wine tasting.

I’m not a wine drinker (darn migraines), so we stuck around Pinhao for a few hours and enjoyed the serenity, eating our sandwiches on a park bench in the sunshine.

On a walk we saw a little bungalow we wouldn’t mind settling in, right along the Douro River. Maybe just for the spring and fall. It had a wonderful vegetable garden down in front, and plenty of room for friends and family to visit. Dream on…

The Beautiful Churches of Porto

No enhancements – the sky really is that blue!

The churches in Porto are so colorful. We found them around every corner, or so it seemed. Many feature the blue and white Azulejo tiles, brilliant against the blue sky (and the gray sky too).

Most churches are front and center, prominently displayed at the top of a main boulevard or at the head of a Praca (square), but some are tucked away and jump out at you unexpectedly.

Church tucked on a narrow sidestreet. We missed it multiple times as we passed!

A perfect example of a well hidden church was just up the street from our apartment. It’s situated on a very narrow street, where it’s easy to miss and hard to appreciate its grandeur.

We walked by it multiple times without even noticing it. When I finally did notice it, I had to strain my neck as far back as I could go just to take in the entire facade.

Tiles of Porto

The Sao Bento train station in Porto has amazingly detailed, floor to ceiling, blue and white tiles depicting historical scenes.

Whole tour bus loads of people, who are not taking a train at all, stop in just to admire the tiles and get pictures. It’s really a very impressive display.

Tile Homes

I especially love the bright and colorful tiles that adorn many homes up and down the cobblestone streets of Porto.

The Trolley Cars

The Trolleys in Lisbon are a nightmare. Hoards of people line up for hours, waiting for the next Trolley. Even when you do get on board, chances are you’ll be smashed somewhere in the middle, standing the entire ride and unable to see a thing except your neighbor’s armpit.

Our lovely, very empty, trolley car, #22

With that in mind, we skipped the Trolleys in Lisbon and postponed until Porto, where the Trolleys are (supposedly) much less crowded. Being extra cautious of possible crowds, we decided to take a morning Trolley. We waited near the University for the #22 Trolley, due at 9:20 am.

I was shocked to find that we had the Trolley all to ourselves for almost our entire thirty minute ride! It was wonderful. I kept changing seats, jumping from one side of the aisle to the other, depending on the view and my mood. Steve mostly stayed in one seat, as is his style.

When we got down the hill to the end of the run, the conductor (if that’s what she is called) left her controls at the front and walked down the aisle, preparing the Trolley for the opposite direction. She flipped the backs of the seats so the they would face the right direction, and reversed the power connector cable on the top of the Trolley.

There were power controls at both ends. The Trolley back was now the front, and we were off and running up the hill to back where we started.

The Bridge in Porto

Posted October 22, 2019

Porto is our last stop in Portugal, not counting our night in Lisbon to catch our early morning flight to Bangkok, coming up in a few days.

We’ve had six nights and five full days to enjoy this beautiful city, with only one full day left. We’ve run around to the major attractions, starting out our first day under heavy clouds, and our second day in the pouring rain.

Thankfully we’d purchased a small magenta umbrella on our way out of Coimbra, which saved us from ending up like giant, sopping wet sponges that day.

Sunshine

We woke up our third morning to bright sunshine, just like our weather app had promised.

Instead of heading down the hill for coffee, as we had done each previous morning, I suggested we try a new direction just to our north.

Truthfully, I only suggested this new route to avoid all the hills in every other direction.

The Ponte Dom Luis I Bridge

All I can say is thank goodness we went the flat and unexplored direction that third morning. The Ponte Dom Luis I bridge, an enormous, pedestrian and metro only bridge spanning 500 feet over the Douro river, laid before us, to our great surprise.

The bridge, made of dark wrought iron, towers high above the river, with steep hillsides plunging down to meet the river on all sides. The bridge was built in 1880, designed by Gustavo Eiffel’s protege, but looks new and modern.

We’d seen the bridge from below our first day out while walking the Ribeira along the waterfront. We had no idea the access was so close to where we were staying, and it wasn’t necessarily on our “to-do” list.

What a View

The sheer expanse of the view was overwhelming.

Looking east, on our left, the sun was having its way with a large patch of morning fog hovering over the bridge upriver. The fog looked like it had been placed there solely for the pleasure of the photographers, who were quickly getting in their shots before it burned off.

We could see at least two other bridges up river, along with the funicular we had taken the prior day hugging the side of the giant hill.

Looking towards the west was historic Porto, in all its splendor. And splendid it was.

We had a breathtaking view of it all. The sunshine was such an added bonus, deepening the reds of the tile roofs, brightening the whites of the stucco buildings, and glittering off the Douro River.

After Dark

We finished out that day, the way it had begun, by visiting our bridge. After all, there was no uphill or downhill to impede us, and I was excited to see the view by night.

The Ferris Wheel was all alight, changing bright colors every minute or so.

Out in the middle of the bridge, enjoying the beautiful night views and the light breeze, I started thinking about what would happen if a big earthquake hit right then. I began looking more critically down at the dark river and tiny buildings so very far below us. Suddenly I was feeling very uncomfortable.

We hightailed it off the iron bridge, and I felt much better once my feet hit solid ground. I’ve never had a reaction to heights before. Maybe it was the mediocre Chinese food we’d had for dinner just prior. Yep, that must have been it.

The Sunset

The next day, we were back “home” after a long day trip to the Douro Valley (home of Port wine). We hurried over at 6:53 pm (thanks again, weather app) to catch the sunset at the bridge. Apparently this is a popular thing to do. The bridge was crowded with tons of tourists, even late October. I can only imagine what it’s like in the summer.

Of course, even the crowds couldn’t detract from the view. It was spectacular. Like two separate sunsets in one, looking east and looking west. Good night Porto.

Coimbra, Portugal

Posted October 20, 2019

City of Seven Hills

I’m not sure why Lisbon is called the city of seven hills, it certainly doesn’t have anything on Coimbra, or any other Portuguese city we’ve been to. I think the entire country is built on a steep slant, and my thighs, calves, and especially my knees, will attest to that.

A few minutes from our apartment – so lovely

Thankfully, every hill is worth climbing because around every corner there’s a charming square, a breathtaking view, or a quaint cobblestone street filled with colorful tiled homes, four-stories high.

Even our apartment, which was at the top of a huge hill, had its own mini-hill at the door. The foyer sat a good three feet above street level. Someone had placed two large, uneven stone blocks in front of the doorway, masquerading as stairs.

Giant, uneven stone “steps” to apartment
View of a van going by our front window

Ready, Set, Climb

I’d take a deep, cleansing breath, then focus and hoist myself up the uneven stone blocks. It didn’t help that I’m still nursing a bad knee (see Tomar post).

And while I was heaving myself up the stone chunks, cars, vans, and the occasional mini-bus would barrel down the extremely narrow cobblestone lane. The vehicles barely fit down the lane, and would be so close on each side that I’d have to stay tight up against the house, or risk getting flattened.

It Just Works

Living Room
Bedroom Window View
Kitchen

That being said, our apartment was perfect for us in every other way. We had a light-filled bedroom, a tiny, but functional kitchen & bathroom, and a comfortable living room area. And at the bargain rate of $47 a night, we were quite happy.

The University

With our apartment being at the mid-point of the hill in the historic center of Coimbra, half the tourist attractions were up, and the other half were down.

One destination on everyone’s list is the University of Coimbra. We hiked 15 minutes up to the University, where we bought a ticket to tour the the University and the Biblioteca Joanina (library).

Biblioteca Joanina

I must say, the Biblioteca Joanina, built in 1717, was pretty darn impressive. The University has a tight control on library visitors, with only 50 people allowed in at a time, for a closely monitored 20 minutes. And no pictures are allowed – at all.

Three Hundred Thousand Books

No photos were allowed, but here’s a
visual of old books

We were ushered in under close watch. Shelves towered over us, three stories high on all sides, filled with 300 thousand books dating from the 16th to 18th century. I love the look of old books and have ten or twelve at home that were handed down to me from several generations ago, but the books in this library were Old, with a capital “O”. And there were so many.

Protecting the Books

The library, with centuries old, irreplaceable books, was constructed to keep the books in pristine condition. The external walls are 6 feet, 9 inches thick and the enormous door is made of teak. But the most impressive thing are the bats.

It’s doubtful the bats at the University of Coimbra Library are this cute.

A colony of bats live in the library walls, and the University welcomes them to do so. They come out each night and feast on any potentially harmful bugs that might damage the books. Should it occur to you, as it did to me, that the bat droppings could pose a problem, rest assured the staff covers all the plush wool rugs and solid wood carved tables with thick leather blankets each night.

Mammoth Meringues & Savory Bites

Far down the hill from the University and Library, where things flatten out by the Rio Mondegov (River) are several pastry shops with the biggest meringues on earth (probably).

These meringues are so large that I assumed they were loaves of bread. With closer inspection, and after verifying with a bakery employee, I found out they were indeed meringue.

It’s All About Perspective

I didn’t get a good picture showing how large the meringues actually are because Steve refused to pose with them. I’m not sure why – I’m fine posing next to any baked good myself.

I’d say the average meringue measured a foot in diameter and about eight to ten inches high, including peaks. The meringues sold whole or quartered. Even a quarter of a meringue would take days to eat. But it would have been a fun, and perhaps sticky, few days.

Charming square we frequented in front
of Se Velha Cathedral
Our route near the apartment

We missed out on trying a meringue, but we did eat (twice) at an incredible restaurant, Maria Portuguesa. Maria Portuguesa, is located about 50 m from the Se Velha Cathedral, and only a 5-6 minute walk from our apartment.

Neighborhood Market where we bought water, fruit & cookies
Se Velha Cathedral, near our apartment

The tiny, cozy restaurant has only five proper tables for two, and one little rickety folding table, also for two (there are a few outdoor tables too). The stuffed portabella mushroom, wrapped in bacon (which is like ham in Portugal), was incredible. We had it twice. And the meal was so reasonably priced. Amazing dinner, wine, and sparkling water totaled just over $22 for the two of us.

Other Wanderings

Besides eating, which is always a highlight, we visited the Museu da Ciência da Universidade de Coimbra (Science Museum) and the Museo Zoological.

We also attended a Fado performance (Portuguese traditional music) at Fado ao Centro, and walked all through the historic part of town.

Coimbra, like all the Portuguese towns I’ve visited, is full of red tiled rooftops, black and white tiled sidewalks, unusual architecture, and surprisingly beautiful ironwork balconies.

Museum Nacional de Machado de Castro

I like museums, but Steve loves museums. I try to regulate how many we go to, and how long we will stay. I’m good with two museums a week, and try to stick to a three hour maximum per visit. Well, it turns out the Museum Nacional de Machado de Castro was like two museums in one. Nevertheless, I was happy to make an exception to my rule and stay overtime. It was just that good.

The museum first opened in 1913 in a Bishop’s Palace and housed a great sculpture collection. It closed suddenly in 2008, and no one knew why. During the ten year closure, the Museum Director organized the excavation of an enormous Roman Cryptoporticus and Forum beneath the Bishop’s Palace, dating from the 1st Century AD. Now that’s quite a find!

Cryptoporticus & Forums Explained

For those (like me) who don’t know exactly what a Roman Cryptoporticus and Forum are, let me explain. A Cryptoportico is a semi-subterranean gallery with vaulting that supports the structures above ground, such as a Forum, or central plaza. But because of the ancient nature of the Roman structures, both the Forum and the Cryptoporticus are now underground – in fact, under the Bishop’s Palace.

We walked into the Bishop’s Palace Museum, in the heart of historic Coimbra, and paused in the courtyard to admire the sweeping view of the city.

Down You Go

The museum personnel directed us down the stairs into the depths underneath the Palace. Landing in a deep, arched vault made of stone, all in shades of white and beige, was quite a contrast to the colorful Portugal above. The arched hallways, paths, and rooms, all made of stone blocks, are beautifully lit. It was like walking around in an ancient tomb, but with good lighting. Even I, at 5’3”, would duck down to get through most of the arched doors that led from one room to the next.

After the Cryptoporticus and Forum, the sculptures in the upper floors did not disappoint. Some of the sculptures had such life-like features, it was hard to pull my eyes away.

Wins and Losses

Wins

The Ph.D. candidate sits in the small seat
under the chandelier in this imposing room

Never, ever, having to defend a dissertation in the “hot seat” at Coimbra University, in the middle of the enormous, imposing red room, surrounded by portraits of all the former kings of Portugal – not to mention the University faculty.

We finally figured out that the little fox graffiti figure we’ve been seeing all over Portugal is actually an anti-government symbol. Ruh-Roh.

Not going to museum-jail after being chased down by several Museum attendants (as we were leaving), who were overly concerned that we hadn’t hit every single floor and seen every single exhibit.

Losses

Not taking the plunge and buying a giant meringue. Opportunity lost!

Getting the same grumpy, impatient, Portuguese mumbling Uber driver both times we Ubered, twice in the same day.

The Black Cape Crowd of Evora

Posted October 17, 2019

Praca de Giraldo

The day we arrived in Evora, Portugal, we headed into the main square, Praca de Giraldo. We immediately noticed large groups of young people gathered in black capes. We had read that college students in Portugal wear long, black capes year round.

Even though we knew these must be Evora University students, it felt like we were in another time in history, or maybe at a costume party. We felt strangely out of place in our REI shorts and cotton t-shirts.

It turns out that J.K. Rowling, the creator of the Harry Potter series, started her writing while in Portugal. The Portuguese college students, in their long black robes, were her inspiration for the Hogwarts “uniform”.

Chanting & Marching

We watched in fascination as the black caped students chanted, arm in arm. They formed large circles and smaller clusters throughout the square, centered mostly around the large fountain. Their chanting was boisterous and continued to get louder and louder.

Then our attention was pulled to somewhere beyond the square. We could hear loud yells and commotion, but couldn’t be sure where it was coming from. Then a chain of students, connected like a centipede, popped into the square from a side alley. They were wearing outlandish outfits with colorful balloons and feathers stuck to their bodies, yelling, throwing their arms about, and generally calling attention to themselves.

A Shoe On The Head?

The chanting and marching were fun to watch, but when we saw students balancing shoes on their heads all over the square, while other students took their picture, we really started to wonder.

Students were everywhere putting shoes on their heads. Some shoe-heads were posing singularly, usually kneeling down. Others were in large groups creating a pyramid, all while balancing shoes on their heads.

We wondered if this was some sort of political protest or Greek-life shenanigans. I was dying to run around and take tons of pictures, but I was worried about intruding, so only got a few pictures from afar.

I had to solve this mystery, so I sought out some 20-something young women working at a store nearby.

They pondered how to explain it to me in English, and finally said it was something like our fraternities and sororities, but not exactly the same.

Mystery Solved

The store employees explained that there are no separate women & men “Greek-like” organizations in Portugal. The entire college community gather as one in the fall and “bond” by doing silly things and embarrassing the freshman. Apparently this year the upperclassmen decided that making the freshman balance a shoe on their head would be just the indoctrination needed.

Students use Praca de Giraldo as a gathering spot, since Evora University is spread all over the city

The best thing about the Portuguese “non-Greek” system is that, after the fun “getting to know you” phase in the fall, the seniors each match up with a freshman. The seniors then mentor and support their freshman match during their first college year.

I love this idea. It reminds me of an independent school I know a bit about (I’m one of the founders), The Attic Learning Community, near Seattle, Washington, where multi-age mentoring works wonders.

I’m not at all surprised the Portuguese continue to nurture this fine tradition of older students mentoring younger ones. Bravo.

Tomar, Portugal

Posted on October 16, 2019

The Town

Knights Templar Castle High Above Tomar, Portugal

We stepped out of the Tomar bus station and the first thing we saw was a huge castle looming over the town. I had to stop in my tracks and stare up in awe.

We headed towards our Hostel located on the main pedestrian-only corridor. I was surprised to see that there weren’t many people around, considering it was the center of town. Only a few of the cafes along the corridor were open, and of those only about half the tables were full with local patrons having afternoon espresso. I guess that’s mid-October in Tomar.

It was quite refreshing to be in a town with mostly locals and just a few other tourists.

Tomar is small and quite lovely, with the River Tâmega running through the center and one of the finest Roman bridges in Portugal.

Roman Bridge over the River Tamega, Tomar, Portugal

The black and white checkerboard tile pattern, set on the diagonal, in the main square, Praça da Republica, is mesmerizing.

At the time we didn’t know it, but we had arrived on the one day a year where the Knights Templar have a nighttime Procession, marching and riding on horseback down the steep, uneven cobblestone path from the castle into and through town.

The Great Fall

In preparation for the Knights Templar Procession, the town had dropped sand, lots of sand, along the processional path (I’m not sure why – maybe for the horses?). There happened to be a huge amount of sand just in front of our hostel, and as I stepped down my foot suddenly slid 10 inches. I lurched forward and somehow flat out pancaked in front of the hostel.

With my large green backpack on, I’m sure I looked like a giant turtle flailing and falling, completely out of control. Unlike the turtle, when I landed, my face was suspended just inches from the hard tile. My right knee took the brunt of the impact. My poor right knee that has already had two surgeries, including an ACL repair.

My first thought was utter astonishment (it all happened so fast). My second thought was, “Am I ok?”. My third thought was, “OMG, how embarrassing”. One of the few crowded outdoor cafes was right across from our Hostel, and everyone there had a prime view of my entire gymnastics move.

Two different local men stopped and offered their help. The Portugeuse are so very friendly and thoughtful. I kindly refused their offers, and had Steve help me to my feet. I hobbled up the stairs, and Steve checked us in.

After some elevating and icing, and a consult by a Physical Therapist from Missouri that was staying at our Hostel, all I could do was rest. The PT taped up my knee, and advised me that I could climb up the steep path to the castle the next day, if I felt up to it and took it super slow.

Knights Templar

But before thinking about tomorrow and the castle, we still had the Knights Templar to look forward to. I was excited to text my oldest son, who is a High School History Teacher, about our good fortune to see the “Knights of Templar”. He seemed excited too, but was quick to correct me that it’s “Knights Templar” (no “of”). Of course, he would know that bit of historical information. I admit I’ve never heard of the Knights Templar, but will be sure to leave out the “of” forevermore.

The Knights started descending from the Castle at 10:30 pm. We were fortunate to have a balcony overlooking the Processional path. By the time the Knights were passing under our balcony it was after 11:15 pm.

The Knights were clad in all white robes with the red Knights Templar emblem emblazoned on the front. In all, several hundred Knights marched past, many with torches, while others rode on horseback. Medieval music blared throughout the Kingdom (or the street, if you prefer).

I still can’t believe the luck of happening upon this annual event. I couldn’t have planned it any better if I’d tried, except I’d skip the undignified entry into town part.

Getting Up The Hill

The next morning I tried out my knee. It was stiff and sore, but I was determined to see the Knights Templar Castle located at the very top of the steep hill looking over the town.

We walked the three minutes to the main square in search of a Tuk-Tuk to haul me up the hill to the Castle. Anywhere you find tourists in Europe, you will find dozens of Tuk-Tuks.

Well, this one time there were no Tuk-Tuk’s to be found. Since a Tuk-Tuk was out of the question, we decided to turn to Uber, which is widely used in Portugal. I opened my Uber app. The app read, “No Uber service available”.

Well, the transportation Gods were not in our favor, so I took a deep breath and started up the hill, on foot.

The Knights Templar Castle

A very slow and steady pace up many stairs, then on to a steep, winding, cobblestone path, finally led to the Castle. Rounding the bend and seeing the Castle in full view was quite a sight. The Castle complex was huge and had a commanding presence.

Wandering the grounds and touring the interior, full of the traditional blue and white tiles lining every corridor, was stunning, but the true jewel was The Convent of Christ, in the center of the Castle.

The Convent of Christ

The Convent of Christ was a very unexpected and pleasant surprise. I didn’t realize it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, or I would have known to expect something really special.

The Convent of Christ was like a Church within a Church within a Castle. The unique ceiling, with spines gracefully arching up towards the center, was breathtaking.

The pictures don’t do it justice. The colors, the patterns, and the enormity of the altar were awe-inspiring. I could have stayed for hours studying the detail and gawking at the beauty.

Wins and Losses

Wins

Happening into town on the very day of the the annual Knights Templar Procession!
Having a large, comfortable room with a lovely balcony perfect for viewing the Knights Templar Procession
Lying flat in the Hostel lobby, while Steve checked in, with ice on my knee, and having a Physical Therapist from Missouri come to my aid

Losses

Checking into our Hostel and finding out we don’t have a private bathroom, which, at the time, was the least of my worries.
Watching two Tuk-Tuk’s zoom by us at the end of a long day when we had been unable to find a Tuk-Tuk anywhere for a ride up, or a ride down the steep hill to the Castle.
Pancaking in the street right in front of our Hostel has got to go in the Losses column. No doubt about it

Exploring Evora, Portugal

Posted October 13, 2019

The Ironwork throughout Evora is Amazing

An Early Start

The alarm went off at 6 am, and we caught the 6:45 early morning bus to Lagos, with our ultimate destination being Evora. It was the only bus leaving Salema that day that worked with our connection, so it was early or nothing. From there we had to make two more connections before finally arriving in Evora.

In all we were traveling for 9 hours, with just a few minutes downtime between connections. It was one long day. Our previous long bus ride a week ago sold sandwiches and freshly brewed espresso. Unfortunately, these buses had no food options, but luckily we had packed the Portuguese equivalent of strawberry Pop Tarts (but much thinner and crunchier). Not our normal food fare, but sometimes you don’t have a choice.

We were heading north into the arid plains of the Alentejo region. So much of the terrain we passed through looked just like the golden California foothills.

Storks!

As the bus made its way, I was thrilled to recognize something I’d only ever seen in Morocco just last year, storks nests. The nests are always at the highest point to be found, like a high column or chimney. Storks build their massive nests out of sticks. It’s really quite amazing to see and never gets old.

Capela dos Ossos

Once in Evora, we made a point to visit Capela dos Ossos, or The Chapel of Bones. I wasn’t sure how I’d feel entering a chapel where all the walls are covered in real human bones, but I must say it was very impressive, if not a bit jaw dropping (excuse the pun). I’ve been to countless breathtaking churches throughout Europe, but this is one I’ll never forget.

Lots of Skulls
A Pillar of Bones

The history and message of the chapel are profound and powerful. The chapel was the idea of three Franciscan friars. Their goal was to convey the message of temporariness and fragility of human life. This message “We bones that are here, for yours we wait” is prominently etched on the arch above the chapel entrance for all to see.

Another Example of Patterns Out of Bones

The Chapel was built in the late 1500’s with thousands of bones of monks and others excavated from area cemeteries. It was fascinating to carefully study the walls, pillars, ceiling trim, and doorways – all covered with bones in unique ways to form patterns and adorn the chapel.

There was even a complete pelvis bone with a skull positioned inside atop the exit doors on either side of the altar. Creative, and yet kind of creepy.

Cemiterio do Mindelo

Speaking of cemeteries, when we walked into town from the bus station to our hotel, I saw a huge, ancient looking cemetery. I made a mental note to go back, if we had time. I love walking through old cemeteries, reading the birth and death years, and reflecting on the people’s lives from long ago.

On our last afternoon we did visit the cemetery and saw rows and rows of family tombs, mainly made of white marble, many from the 1500’s. I’ve never seen so many tombs all lined up on both sides of the pathways, like residential neighborhoods of the deceased.

Endless rows of tombs lined the
“streets” of the Cemetery

I’m sure the tombs must be a measure of the wealth and power of a family. It looked to me like each tomb was bigger and more ornate than the next. An end-of life version of keeping up with the Joneses.

Meandering in Evora

S & T
Baby Peacocks
Praca do Giraldo

Moving on to less morbid aspects of Evora, we followed the Rick Steves (travel writer) walk as outlined in his book on Portugal. Evora is the perfect size town for walking. It’s nice and compact. We started at the central square, Praça do Giraldo, about a two minute walk from our hotel.

City Hall
Temple of Diana
Cool Home

We meandered through the hilly cobblestone streets, visiting the ancient Roman Temple of Evora (also called the Temple of Diana), the Cathedral of Evora, City Hall, and a lovely park with the year 1886 spelled out in the black and white tiles at the entry gate. I was especially surprised to see baby peacocks at the park, running around 4-5 adult peacocks.

Cathedral of Evora
Park built in 1886
Awesome Ironwork

The Yellow-Heads

A group of young students, all wearing turquoise shirts and yellow caps, made their way past us with their teacher leading the way, heading for parts unknown. So cute. Steve was also wearing turquoise, but no yellow cap. I guess he only got part of the memo.

Steve thinking about Joining this school outing,
since he’s wearing the right color

Google Translate Gone Wrong

We ate lunch in a very small eatery that barely had room for two small tables, way up the road from the central square, away from most tourists.

There was a handwritten white board menu out front. I quickly used google translate to check a few of the offerings, and was horrified when one came up as a dog sandwich. What the heck? With a little more research I figured out the menu item was a hot dog, thank goodness.

There were only locals in the joint, and when we tried to order the proprietor gave me a deer in the headlights look, turned away, and promptly went to the back to fetch his wife, who could manage some English. We ended up ordering baguette sandwiches, but didn’t dare order the hot dog – just in case.

The Orange Sunset

This is really how it looked! No filter or enhancements!

On our last evening in Evora we caught a spectacular sunset. It was by sheer luck that we saw it because of a timing error on our part. The restaurant we walked to for dinner, down a side street off the main square, didn’t open for 10 minutes, so we headed back up the hill to kill some time. We plopped down on the large marble slabs that surround the broad, round fountain. It was then that Steve noticed an intense, orange sunset developing just behind me. Wow, no filter or enhancement needed (or applied) to these sunset photos. So glad we didn’t miss it!

Wins and Losses

Wins

Met a lovely couple from Lexington, Kentucky, one day at lunch. Thanks Ann & Kevin for being liberals from the south. I really appreciate you and enjoyed our chat!

We loved the Ale House Guesthouse in Evora. It had a large, well-equipped, shared kitchen, a bathroom we could maneuver in, and a great location.

Losses

I offered to help a middle-aged couple at a neighboring table translate the menu which was in cursive in Portuguese. The waiter had just explained it to us, but only gave them a cursory explanation.

Things got really awkward right away. I had heard them speaking in English, so thought my input would be welcome. I approached them and asked if they’d like some help with the menu, and the man replied with an extremely tentative and drawn out, “maaaaybeeee?”. Bad start.

I quickly showed them what I knew, then retreated to my table. Not long after, we overheard them fluently conversing with the waiter. As Scoobie Doo would say, “Ruh-Roh”.

The Art Competition: Evora, Portugal

Posted October 12, 2019

The 20th International Youth Art Meeting

On our second day exploring Evora, we passed by the Igreja de São Francisco, a very large and imposing church adjacent to the Chapel of Bones. There were many children scattered about in front of the church working on art pieces. Kids were sitting on the stairs, in the front atrium, and even across the street in the Sao Francisco square.

I asked one young girl if she spoke English (she did), and I proceeded to get the scoop. She was about twelve years old and from Israel. Turns out all the children were competing in the 20th International Youth Art Meeting, Evora 2019. The Art Meeting brings children from all over the world, ages four through twenty, to Evora every year to create art reflecting their vision of the city of Evora.

Thirteen Participating Countries

This year the competition sponsored children from Bulgaria, China, Egypt, Slovenia, India, Israel, North Macedonia, Portugal, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Turkey, and Ukraine. After the competition, the water colors, paintings, and sketches are sold to finance bringing next years crop of children to Evora to compete.

Ages Four to Twenty

I was surprised to learn that even the youngest children, as young as four year old, compete in the same category as all other ages, up to twenty year old. My Isreali friend assured me that some of the four year old artists are incredibly talented, and easily compete!

She also told me that, besides working on their piece, the artists have classes and go on tours of Evora over the course of the competition, which this year spanned October 8th to the 30th.

I was thrilled that she took the time to share with me. It shows a very special side of Evora not typically experienced by tourists like me. I treasure experiences like this when traveling.

Praca do Giraldo – Even More Artists

Early the next morning, as we walked to get breakfast, I was pleasantly surprised to see more than a dozen more young artists scattered about the picturesque Praca do Giraldo (main square), sketching in the beautiful morning light. I ordered my usual Meia de Leite and Steve his Americano, along with some tasty looking pastries, and we took a seat outside in the square.

The intensity and focus of the artists was admirable. I wish them all the best of luck in the competition, but truly feel that the experience of coming to Evora and meeting other artists from all over the world is the best reward of all.

Salema’s Sparkling Beach

Posted October 11, 2019

Getting to Salema

After three nights in Lagos, we packed up our backpacks and walked 25 minutes across town, heading to the bus station. We had scoped out the bus schedule for Salema the night before, so we had our plan all set. We stopped for an early lunch (we skipped breakfast), so Steve thought it a good time to have a beer.

Steve with beer, leaving Lagos for Salema

Little did we know, until we arrived at the bus station, that our planning was flawed since this particular Saturday was a Portuguese holiday, Republic Day, which celebrates the overthrow of the Monarchy in 1910.

With an extra two hours to kill we parked ourselves at a small outdoor cafe with a great view of the bus terminal, where Steve had another beer (haha). Back at the station, I had the great pleasure of using the bus station women’s bathroom, and I would not recommend it. I’ll spare you the details, just trust me.

Once we were successfully loaded on the bus, things got a lot smoother. It was only a 40 minute drive to Salema.

The Fishing Village

Salema is a tiny fishing village with two streets that comprise the entire town, both paralleling the wide, long white sand beach. Rick Steves (travel writer) labels Salema as his favorite beach retreat in all of Europe, and that was a good enough reason for us to give it a try.

There are about 5 nice seafood restaurants, an Italian restaurant, a tiny market with very limited hours, a morning pastry shop, and a pizza place in Salema. And that’s it.

Gorgeous sunset on the way to dinner in Salema

We went a bit over budget eating in Salema, but had some amazing seafood, and saw Jane Curtin (of Saturday Night Live fame from the 70’s) eating dinner at the table just behind us on our last night. Or at least I think it was her.

Steve was horrified that I kept taking his picture during dinner, but it was the only way I could get a picture of “Jane”. I was a bit obsessed with Jane throughout dinner, even googling her for more personal information. Her husband has a ruddy-red look and she’s 72 years young. Everything seemed to fit and it was all falling into place!

My “Jane” at the restaurant
Jane Curtin photo – you be the judge!

My bubble burst at the end of our meal, when we heard “Jane’s” husband had a very Scottish accent. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted.

Our Quarto

To offset our overspending on restaurants, we opted to stay in a Quarto, a rental room in a local’s house. Our room was teeny tiny and contained two twin beds, a side table, and good lighting. It also had an en suite bathroom, that was also very small but functional, and all ours. And all of this for $44 a night.

The very best thing about our Quarto was the 10 second walk to the beach! Hard to beat that. And we loved listening to the waves lulling us to sleep at night.

We had our own private entrance, access to a shared refrigerator and coffee maker, and even our own laundry lines just outside our window, where I hung my hand washing to dry in the heat of the day. We felt just like locals (well, kind of).

The Beach

Praia Salema is pretty darn ideal, with powdery white sand, the turquoise blue ocean, and an uncrowded beach (at least in October). A local rents loungers with palapas (for shade) for $10 euros a day.

We made the most of our rental investments each day, arriving first on the beach every morning and staying until 6 or later. We had no problem filling our entire day with reading, sunning, and some quality napping.

It was close to 80 degrees every day, with a nice breeze. When we got hot enough, we’d brave the Atlantic, which was quite brisk, but refreshing nonetheless.

Yellow Rental Lounges, 10 euros a day for two

We chose to sit at the far west edge of the lounge chairs, so we had a good view as local fishermen’s boats were dragged up onto the sand by a tractor to unload their catch. The town cats would gather by the boats and patiently wait for scraps from their haul.

Three cats sit on the sand on the right side of the picture,
waiting for fish remnants

The Dolphins

Dolphin watching excursions are advertised all over town, but we were lucky enough to witness our own (free), dolphin sightings.

Early in the morning, while having breakfast on an outdoor deck just up from the ocean, we spotted about 10 dolphins swimming by.

I didn’t get a picture of the dolphins,
so here are some seagulls instead

Then, later that same day, in the late afternoon, everyone on the beach had a real treat when about 15-20 dolphins swam up and down the beach putting on a show. I think I was more excited than the little kids. Dolphins were leaping high out of the water, flipping and playing. Others were jetting around at high speed, creating white water like speed boats. I even saw two jump high into the air, in unison, and gracefully dive back into the depths, like something you’d see at a dolphin show. It was magical.

Wins and Losses

Wins

The beach, the beach, the beach
The sparkling ocean
Meeting Mandy & Harold from Napa, Happy 30th!
Staying in a room that’s a 10 second walk from the beach

Losses

Steve stubbed his little toe on the sharp tile corner in the bathroom, drawing blood
Hours later, a bee elected to sting Steve in the same wounded little toe. That little toe must have done something very bad in a former life, is all I can say
The only bus out of Salema had a pick-up time of 6:45 am. The only bus. It wasn’t even light out, but we were on-board!