September 2019 -

Day Trip to Belem

Posted September 29, 2019

We made it to beautiful Lisbon, Portugal! It’s very hot for very late September, and I’m embarrassed to admit it, but I have a heat rash in both my armpits. It’s unexpected and terribly inconvenient. I packed my “healthy” deodorant that has no antiperspirant properties, which, it turns out, was a big mistake. And our future destinations only get hotter and more humid. How did this unfortunate situation occur? Let me explain…

It all started on Friday. We planned a day trip to the very popular section of outer Lisbon called Belem, about six miles to the west. In our typical fashion, we were determined to take public transit. I was especially excited because we were finally going to get to ride on one of the cute, iconic yellow trolleys seen all over Lisbon. With our trusty Rick Steves book in hand (literally), we tried to find the trolley stop for the 15E to Belem. It wasn’t easy. After a 25 minute brisk walk we parked ourselves at a trolley stop and waited, but we had virtually no confidence that we were in the right place.

After 15 minutes a policeman walked by, so I asked him where to catch the 15E to Belem. He looked at me, then turned away and motioned urgently towards a square, the Praca do Comercio, about 150 yards to the east, where the 15E was currently loading. He was pointing at a large bus, not a trolley, but we took him at his word and starting running through the crowded sidewalks and across the wide street, dodging cars, tuk-tuk’s, and people, while digging out our passes. And yes, it was the 15E we were looking for.

This is where we were supposed to catch the 15E.
How could we have missed this tiny, discrete location?

We’d heard the 15E can get very crowded, and our information was correct. Trying to catch my breath as I approached the bus, I showed my pass to the attendant and he waved me inside. The problem was there was nowhere to go. A solid wall of humans filled the open doors. Behind me there were still more people with every intention of getting on that bus too, so I took that first step and squeezed in. Steve was smashing in right behind me. I was so squished that bodies were touching up against me from my shoulders down to my ankles, on all sides. I felt like a tightly wrapped burrito. I was suspended in a sea of humanity, with no bar, seat, or strap to hang on to. The pressure of bodies kept me from falling as the bus started on its way, but that was short-lived. Even my feet were pinned together, so I couldn’t gain my balance.

As the bus abruptly stopped and started, I repeatedly stepped on the woman directly behind me, who looked like Bea Arthur (“Maude”, of 70’s sitcom fame). Of course it wasn’t Bea Arthur, but she was tall with large feet and gray hair and had the look of Bea Arthur. I’m sure I also nailed Bea’s husband a few times, who was behind me to the right. Sorry Bea. Sorry Bea’s husband.

I already had a good start on overheating from our dash to the bus, but now I was quickly absorbing heat from all sides. Turns out the buses are supposed to be air conditioned, but this one wasn’t. It was close to 80 degrees outside and I was packed in a sweltering bus with a hundred of my now closest friends, with no windows, no air movement, and trying desperately to stay upright. It was a long ride to Belem. I won’t go into further detail about the rash, but suffice to say there was lots of wetness involved and it wasn’t pretty.

If you do make it to Belem, one way or another, make sure to visit the Monastery of Jeronimos. It’s a giant, white limestone structure full of detailed, Gothic architecture. We found it breathtaking and very impressive. Entrance to the church is free. Entrance to the Monastery is 10 euros and it’s worth it.

After visiting the Monastery, we took a walk along the waterfront by the Marina, heading west paralleling the Tagus River. There’s an underground tunnel to get across the fast moving highway between the Park and the waterfront, almost directly across from the gigantic Monument to the Discoveries.

Once on the Marina side, it’s about a 10 minute walk to the Tower of Saint Vincent. The Tower served both as a fortress and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The Tower rises majestically out of the river and looks like a movie set. The tower was the last thing many explorers saw as they left Portugal on their journey to the new world.

Next, we took a foot bridge by the tower back over the highway. We headed a couple of blocks into town where we found a restaurant with shady outdoor seating that was far less touristy than back by the Monastery.

Here are my tips for a day trip to Belem:

Catch the 15E at the first stop, Praça da Figueira, not the second stop, Praça do Comércio. With luck, you’ll get a seat on the bus and have some breathing room.
Be advised that the 15E trolley that supposedly goes to Belem is actually not a trolley at all, but a mammoth, double-long, modern electric bus that has advertising all over the windows so you cannot see inside. It looks like something from a futuristic sci-fi movie, not at all like the cute yellow trolley we were looking for that travel all over Lisbon.
Turns out you can also catch the “normal” bus #728 to and from Belem, so there’s no need to even deal with the giant futuristic electric bus, unless you’re into that sort of thing.
Bring lots of water and maybe a fan.
Wear a good antiperspirant or maybe go in December. And good luck.

Update:

I have great news to report, in case you are concerned about me. My “issue” is getting much better and it’s only been 24 hours. I think I’m ready to head to Sintra, our next destination!

14 Days and Counting

Posted September 11, 2019

The Grand Adventure

In two short weeks my husband and I will set off on a grand six to seven month travel adventure. Leaving from Seattle, Washington on September 24, 2019, we plan on visiting, at a minimum, Portugal, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and perhaps Laos. Beyond reserving our Airbnb’s for a few days in each of the first three countries, we have no set itinerary for our 180-200 day journey, which I find both thrilling and a bit terrifying.

Luggage: Less is More

In the past we’ve traveled fairly light. We’d take a wheeled carry-on size suitcase and a generously sized day pack each. This time around, we’re downsizing even more, for several good reasons. It’s so much easier to travel on uneven streets, up & down stairs, and through crowded train terminals with a backpack rather than pulling a wheeled suitcase. It’s also nice to be hands free, as a backpack allows. I look forward to the simplicity of minimal packing, and the ease it brings when moving from place to place.

Our new Osprey backpacks are about half the size of our old wheeled carry-ons. It’s quite a challenge to downsize by so much, but bad knees necessitate reasonably sized backpacks, at least for me. We’ll also bring a small to medium day pack each. We’re still figuring out exactly what size day pack will work best. Overall I’m excited by the idea of minimalist travel. We’ll see if I still feel the same way on day 200.

30th Anniversary Trip & More

Posted September 8, 2019

2015: Italy

Woooo Hoooo! We made it to our 30th anniversary! Let’s take a 21 day trip to Italy! Three weeks of eating and visiting museums!

This being our first trip to Europe in 30 years, we learned a lot, including how easy it is to get off at the wrong train station. That being said, we must have been doing something right because on our first day in Venice, a tourist asked us for directions at the water taxi. I guess we looked like we knew what we were doing.

While in southern Italy, we braved the winding, cliff-side bus down the Amalfi Coast. It’s impossible to do justice to the breathtaking beauty where the sea, sky, and colorful homes clinging to steep hillsides come together. We were so impressed that we ditched our previous plans and did it all again the very next day.

While in Venice, on an especially early morning water taxi ride, we were surprised to find we were on the “school bus”. We scrunched to the back of the water taxi as school children piled on board, carrying their book bags and buzzing with middle school energy. What fun to have a school bus that’s a boat on a Venetian canal!

Our last day in Italy we visited the National Archeological Museum in Naples. We came upon a door marked the “Secret Cabinet” (Gabinetto Segreto). Turns out years ago researchers unearthed a huge collection of erotic art in the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The collection featured thousands of phallus-shaped pendants, wind chimes, and candlesticks, among other items. In other words, we were suddenly surrounded by penises. They were everywhere, large and small, ornate and decorative. Wow, just wow.

2016: Spain

To me, tapas, cobblestone streets glistening after a light rain, and grand palaces are the best parts of Spain. In 2016 we visited Barcelona, Seville, Cordoba, Toledo, Granada, and Madrid.

Manolo, our Airbnb host, was a bundle of energy and enthusiasm, especially when talking about his city, Seville. When we arrived Manolo was quick to offer us some homemade Sangria. We were a little taken aback, as it was about 10:30 in the morning, but what the hell, how could we say no?

I had no interest whatsoever in seeing Flamenco dancing, but Manolo insisted that we go. Thank God he did. The energy of the Flamenco dancer’s heals pounding on the stage and the drama of the performance was incredible. All I can say is go see Flamenco, but make sure to talk to Manolo so you go to an authentic performance in his beloved city of Seville.

2017: Czech Republic, Austria & Hungary

Czech Republic

Prague

Prague was having a rare spring cold-snap on the day we arrived. Even with light snow and frigid wind, it was easy to admire beautiful Prague. Tourists were out in force, especially in the Old Town Square. Everywhere we went we encountered clusters of hundreds of tourists wearing identical knit beanies with the word “PRAGUE” in huge block letters. It was like a sea of “PRAGUE” beanies everywhere you looked. There was no question in our minds where we were, in case we should somehow forget.

Full disclosure: I joked about how silly those tourists looked in their identical beanies, but I quickly came to regret that I had not purchased my own “PRAGUE” beanie. The wind was biting cold and perhaps I could have blended in better, who knows?

Generally speaking Prague’s food is nothing special, with one notable exception: the Knedlíky. Made of flour and water, rolled into a loaf, boiled, and sliced. It’s like a thick & doughy slice of dumpling heaven, with gravy on top. My mouth is watering.

Český Krumlov

Even though the sun wasn’t out, Český Krumlov, a small town in the southern Bohemian countryside, was straight out of a fairy tale. As we made our way into town, the parked cars still had a dusting of snow on them from the previous night. The long stroll up hill to the Český Krumlov Castle was the highlight of our stay. The views from the Castle of the red tiled roofs, lush hillsides, blossoming trees, and meandering Vltava river far below us were magnificent.

Austria

Vienna

What most surprised me about Vienna was its beautiful parks. Stadtpark, an large park near our Airbnb, was chocked full of of tulips, sprawling lawns, and winding pathways lined with park benches. How nice to have such a peaceful retreat in the middle of a busy city.

I’ve never been to the Opera, so watching Das Rheingold in the cheap seats was incredible. We watched live on the “big screen” in our jeans and jackets, sitting on the concrete patio just outside the Vienna Opera House while the patrons in minks and jewels watched inside in cushy chairs. The dynamic voices, the colors and costumes, and the pageantry was amazing – and the price was right.

Hungary

Budapest

Széchenyi Chain Bridge View
From Our Room

There seems to be a slight rivalry between Buda and Pest. I loved both. Budapest sparkles.

Our Airbnb had a sweeping view of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge over the Danube. The sunsets were spectacular.

One afternoon we were temporarily blocked from walking across the bridge to the Buda side of town due to a movie car chase scene in progress. It was very cool to watch the film crew position cars, people, and props and yell “Action”!

Széchenyi Medicinal Baths

The Széchenyi Medicinal Baths are a definite must-do. Enormous pools sprawl throughout an extensive compound. As you enter the large pool, warm water envelopes you. If you want it even warmer, there’s a another pool for that. If you’re feeling too relaxed you can join the crowded swirling pool. It’s a circular pool with a strong, swirling current that carries you in giant circles! It was like being in a giant toilet bowl with 50 of your closest friends.

2018: Morocco

Our most recent adventure took us to Morocco for a fabulous 24 days. We traversed two mountain ranges, visited big cities, small villages, and rode camels to a luxury desert camp to spend the night. Fair warning, riding a camel is hard. It’s hard on your bottom, and it’s hard going up and down steep sand dunes. Our ride out to camp was an hour and a half. That being said, I’d do it again in a heartbeat, but I’d ask for a closer camp.

Medinas

At any time, day or night, the Medina (old city) is bustling with locals, tourists, and shop activity. We got lost in the narrow, winding pathways of the ancient Medinas of Fez, Tetouan, and Marrakesh. I’m not sure why every guide book suggests you get lost in the Medina, it’s not like you have any choice in the matter. The Medina is a gigantic maze, complete with dead ends. Blocked by the high stone walls, the sunlight barely trickles in and it’s impossible to get your bearings. And google maps doesn’t work in the Medina. There’s no rhyme or reason to the layout, and we encountered surprises at every turn. Besides the disorientation of being lost most of the time, it was important that we kept our wits about us, so as not to get run over by a donkey cart or fast moving bicycle.

The Diversity of Morocco

I was wowed by the sites and sounds of the old city, but the diversity of Moroccan landscapes had their own allure. I had pictured Morocco as a country primarily made up of flat, dusty deserts, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. Morocco quickly revealed its lush green meadows and hillsides, dotted with large fields of red poppies and yellow daisies. We passed majestic, snow-covered mountains, gorgeous white sand beaches, deep ravines, enormous rock formations, sweeping landscapes of deep ruddy-red gravel, and vast, serene sand dunes accentuated by the shadows of the setting sun.

Morocco was, by far, the most culturally different country that I have visited to date. Morocco is spectacular and the people are so kind and welcoming that I know I’ll be back.

Adventures Pre-2014

Posted September 6, 2019

France & Belgium

The Honeymoon

Way back in 1985 my new husband and I honeymooned in France & Belgium. A travel agent alerted us to a flight deal. If we bought one ticket to Europe and a Polaroid Instant Camera, we’d get our second flight free! Well, being newlyweds on a tight budget, that decided it. We chose France. It was February, so it was very cold. We bundled up and tackled all the top tourist draws in Paris. We ate amazing food including lots of sizzling snails in garlic butter and good wine.

The second week we drove through the Loire Valley, visiting castles that we had almost completely to ourselves. Try beating the romance of driving up over a hill with a snow covered castle coming into view.

Finishing up our trip, we had one afternoon in Brussels. It was an easy decision to spend our short time in the Grand Place, the centuries old square where we were surrounded by opulent buildings glittering in gold. Unfortunately, my most vivid memory of the Grand Place was my husband desperately trying not to vomit as I popped in to cute lace shops. I was on the hunt for something special to take home as a souvenir. He waited outside of each store, patiently taking deep breaths of the cold air until he just couldn’t take it any more. Thankfully we made it to the room just in time. It was a long and a memorable last night of our honeymoon.

Mexico

San Miguel de Allende & Guanajuato

My mom and I took a trip in 2004 to artsy San Miguel de Allende. After San Miguel we white-knuckled it in a taxi speeding through the winding underground tunnels, the only way to reach our second destination of Guanajuato. We couldn’t have picked two more beautiful cities for our mother-daughter trip. Being in the interior of Mexico, north of Guadalajara for the fist time brought a much more authentic Mexico into focus than either of us had ever known. And we loved it.

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta is one of my favorite cities in Mexico. I’ve been there over ten times, and I’m sure I’ll return. The landmark Catholic church sits at the center of town topped by its intricate ironwork crown. Colorful triangle flags drape above the cobblestone streets flapping in the constant breeze. The cute shops, outdoor fish grills, seaside walkway and local life are enchanting.

Cozumel & Playa del Carmen

In 1986 I took my first moped ride with my husband around the island of Cozumel, a small island off the east coast of Mexico. At about the half way point it started raining so hard that the drops stung as they hit our skin and we could hardly see. We tried to take refuge in a large, elegant hotel lobby, the only building for miles, but I guess two under-dressed tourists in t-shirts, dripping in the fancy lobby were not welcome, and we were asked to move along.

The day after the moped debacle, we took a ferry across to the mainland, to a small fishing village called Playa del Carmen. There wasn’t a single hotel along the pristine, white beach. The only tourist accommodations were beach hammocks available for $8 a night. Fishing boats were bringing in their catch and local children played along the beach. Twenty years later I returned to Playa del Carmen and found it had exploded with development and tourism. The city is still worth visiting, with its beautiful beaches and Mexican charm, but it’s definitely grown up from the small fishing village we knew.

Merida

Mérida, the vibrant capital of the Yucatan Peninsula, is a stately colonial city well worth exploring. Before we arrived I made certain there would be a pool at our tiny budget hotel to ease the stifling heat, since we were visiting in July. To my horror, we arrived to find the pool drained and under construction. Every day for a week I checked with the front desk and was reassured the pool would be ready “mañana” (tomorrow), but it never was. Somehow we survived, but the view of that empty pool still haunts me.

Mayan Ruins of Coba

Bicycling the wide, dirt pathways through the Mayan ruins of Coba in the Yucatan jungle was an amazing experience. We cycled from building to building, spread out over many acres, until arriving at the giant pyramid. Climbing the steep, almost vertical, crumbling stairs of the pyramid with only a small guide rope was harrowing, especially with young kids.

After reaching the top we sat and relaxed, enjoying the birds-eye view of treetops and jungle as far as we could see, trying to not think too much about the impending trip back down to solid ground.

Cruising

I’ve cruised to Hawaii, Alaska, the Caribbean Islands, Haiti & Belize, Mexico multiple times, and up the east coast of the United States to Nova Scotia.

Every cruise had its own highlight, but one of my favorites was when we helicoptered to an glacier in Alaska. I’ll never forget the crunch of my boots on the hard glacier surface as I made my way to one of the many one and two foot wide crevices around us. I stood at the crevice edge, peering down into the narrow opening that was so deep it looked like it went on forever. The electric blue glowing from the crevice ice got darker and more intense as the crevice deepened. It was unreal. What an amazing site to behold.